Oh, and don't wait. If it tastes bad then you will want to do another to prove to yourself that you can do better and if it tastes good you will run out of it before your next one is done:razz:
Re crates to store bottles in, I use these.
http://www.diy.com/departments/really-useful-64-l-plastic-storage-box/266363_BQ.prd
They are a bit pricey but you can fit exactly 45 (23L!) 500ml bottles in, and the crate is just tall enough to fit aspalls cider bottles in, which I have quite a few of. And they clamp shut, so you can store clean empties in them without fear of spiders nesting in them (my shed is full of them, I'm petrified every time i get a pint)
Beer crates proved impossible to find for a reasonable price, so I plumped for the Really Useful storage boxes x2 - I was worried that they might not be tall enough for my bottles with the lids on, but they arrived yesterday and they are perfect! I'm absolutely delighted with them, and delighted that I managed to fit exactly 42 bottles in each!! :clap:+1 on the 'really useful' storage box. They are not the cheapest make but they are strong. I was using one as a bath for 5 demi johns until recently.
I bought a cheaper version from a supermarket the other day and managed to crack one just getting it out of the pile . Strangely they were selling the same placky box in two parts of the store where the only difference was the colour of the lid and one was 50% more expensive than the other.
re: the measuring jug - yes, definitely get your own, and get glass if you can. They don't scratch so less chance of it hosting nasties.
imho use the bottle squirter it will foam the starsan and you only need a lil bit, i apply mine via a trigger spray bottle sold for misting plants,
starsan mixed up with 5l of tesco ashbeck water should remain clear and last a good few brews if sprayed onto surfaces.. a lil booklet of indicator papers is a cheap way to check the ph of stored starsan is still viable (ph 2.5 or lower) going cloudy is only an indicator not a dead cert.
leaving hops in the fv longer than 5-7days can start to impart a grasy off flavour (DOH! moment as i realise ive left some in a we bit too long myself)
when siphoning out 3 hands are usefull so is a siphon clip to fasten the siphon to the bucket edge (clothes pegs never work quite right) and you can if vigilent keep the siphon suck end above the yeast lowering as you go, close to the end when the bucket is lighter gently tip forward and wedge a telephone book or 2 under the back edge to keep a deper pool to siphon from at the front, when u start to such the 'mud' up stop. you will loose some beer but thats that...
if you use the fv tap , when sampling for gravity checks remember to rinse the tap spout out with warm water in a squeezy bottle after drawing the sample and a squirt of starsan too
to filter the beer you will need to invest in kegs (real not pressure barrels) a co2 supply to push the beer and 10" cartridge filters with 5 and 1 micron pollythene filters oh and its a total pita and a waste of time. gravity will drop all sediment out eventually..
a lil sediment in the end product is par for the course and just needs a lil practice to pour off i to a glass, - rinsing out the bottle as soon as you have poured stops yeast baking itself onto the dry bottle bottom its a real pita to clean off if that happens.. for bottling clear brite beer and retaining condition again real kegs and a counter pressure bottle filler is the kit needed...
using real kegs tho is a investment as you need temperature control and a regulated gas system and a method to balance off the keg pressure before your tap to get the best from such a system, it is a system and the kegs are only the storage aspect..
UV/direct sunlight will penetrate green and clear glass bottles more than brown/amber, i just dont leave my bottles in direct sunlight and avoid the issue and it UV that can 'skunk' the hop additions and ruin a bottle.
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if you want to invest anymore into brewing a brewfridge would be my recommendation a simple fridge with the addition of a small tube heater or similar controlled by an stc1000 or atc800+ which will let you set and maintain an ideal fermentation temperature, with one your primary fermentation will go like clockwork..
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