Busy day with a blowtorch!

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BrewStew

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today i did some shopping around as i couldn't find a blowtorch for a reasonable price for a small bit of work with some copper piping... then i stumbled on this little beauty for £10 in wickes!:

200902141616_942.jpg


that particular flux lets you get away with not doing a very good job of cleaning joints, and the solder brought the total expense to about £15

so then i got to work! first thing on the agenda was replacing the compression fit tee's on my IC cos they leak occasionally and i would rather it not leak into the wort :nono:

I've never used a blowtorch or done plumbing to this level, so i was quite impressed when without any practise (but watching a few youtube vids to teach myself) i came up with this:

200902141615_941.jpg


then it was onto a plumbing apparatus for the business end of the brewery.. before today, i had john guest fittings on the ends of the hoses for the sparger, MT and LT... i had to disconnect them on the pump side, to pump liquor/wort different ways, causing spills and the occasional burn and a very wet garage floor! so i made this:

200902141638_944.jpg


with this aparatus i can now pump liquor into the tun, and recirculate wort around the MT with just a turn of a valve. the red valve is there so i can disconnect the hose from the mash tun to collect runnings in fermenters, but still send liquor through the pump to the sparger to do my fly sparge :thumb:

when finished the aparatus can be dropped lower than the pump to completely drain out.

it's also took away the problem i had of the john guest fittings leaking air into the line and causing pump problems... here's the sparger doing it's thing

200902141638_943.jpg


works alot better now!



oh and before i packed up tools, i decided to do something i've not had chance to get around to doing until today.... fitting my Blichmann Brewmometer!

200902141711_946.jpg


200902141712_947.jpg


i'm not bothered that it's in Fahrenheit... i've made a laminated temperature quick conversion chart to keep handy if i need to convert temperatures :thumb:

a good day's work i reckon :party:
 
Another constructive day spent then, Nothing like some brew house manufacturing to make you feel good. Nice work their :thumb: :grin:
 
Well done mate, nothing like a few hours playing with brewery things aye? :thumb:
 
I attempted some copper soldering yesterday. Suffice to say it was up to my usual standard of DIY :(

I was using a cook's blowtorch and I don't think it got the copper hot enough because the solder wouldn't melt on contact so I ended up torching the solder directly, which then wouldn't seep into the fitting. All in all a complete bodge.

My only hope are yorkshire fittings.
 
get yourself down to wickes mate... for a tenner that mixed gas propane/butane torch was the business... i only needed to heat the fitting (you dont heat the pipe... you should only heat the fitting apparently) for about 20-30 secs and the solder started to melt on contact.... 10 secs later is gets sucked into the fitting..

from what i've learned on youtube et al, you're supposed to wait till the flux boils before you attempt to use the solder... and if your solder boils... abort, pull the parts apart quickly... clean them and start again cos boiling solder is bad.... fecked if i know why... but i was just doing what i was told by people that know more than me :roll: :lol:
 
Jonnyv said:
I attempted some copper soldering yesterday. Suffice to say it was up to my usual standard of DIY :(

I was using a cook's blowtorch and I don't think it got the copper hot enough because the solder wouldn't melt on contact so I ended up torching the solder directly, which then wouldn't seep into the fitting. All in all a complete bodge.

My only hope are yorkshire fittings.

Give up on end feed fittings and use solder ring. Much easier.
 
Now that i've got the BrewMometer attached to my kettle, and basic plumbing in place, over the course of this week and next weekend i'll be making a built-in (but detachable) IC coil on the inside of the kettle.... a clever bit of plumbing and some ball valves later, and i'll have a Heat Exchanger that will double as an Immersion chiller :thumb:

lag times will be minimal.. it took only 10 mins to take a kettle with 85L of water from 68'c to 76'c (i timed it on my last brew when heating it to sparge temp out of curiosity for this project i had in mind)... i dont see the point in making a seperate heat exchanger, when my kettle will be passing through the temperature ranges needed to heat the liquour to sparging temperature anyway.... the only difference is i'll have to keep an eye on the temperatures until i can be bothered to hook it up to a PID.

watch this space (thread) ;)
 
i dont see the point in making a seperate heat exchanger, when my kettle will be passing through the temperature ranges needed to heat the liquour to sparging temperature anyway.... the only difference is i'll have to keep an eye on the temperatures until i can be bothered to hook it up to a PID.

I hope it works BS. The main problem with using a kettle as a HE, as documented many times before, is the under and overshooting with large volumes of HE liquid. You may need to consider a pump to 'average' the water temp out as you will be surprised as to the difference between the temps at the bottom and top of a 'static' body of water. To get an accurate temperature range you need to use a HE which can react quickly, and that means a large energy transfer to liquid ratio, and preferably an insulated HE. There will also be a large 'lag time' before kettle temps and mash temps equalise.
 
this is true.

when i was chilling my brew last weekend, the Brewmometer was reading 120F... gave it a stir to help with cooling, and it went up 10F !! :shock:

i still want to make a fixed (but removable) IC though.. i hate how my current IC takes up only 1/4 of the space of the boiler but i cant make it bigger cos it then wont fit in my 5 gal boiler. i reckon i should be able to get about 30-40 metres of microbore in it if i make one specifically for the nordic pot. will lose some brewing volume though, but 5-10 litres less doesnt bother me if it cools faster! (it takes nearly an hour atm and doesn't give me the cold break i get in the 5 gal).

way i see it is i may aswell give it a try seeing as it's going to be there anyway... one thing i did notice though is that the kettle seemed to hold it's temperature as well as the thermobox. i'm guessing this is because of the volume of water.

Vossy, can you resend me the details of that guy that supplied the meshes for your false bottoms? i'm going for a flase bottom hop strainer in the kettle, and a mash tun false bottom too to try and cut back on the losses to both vessels ;)

cheers mate :thumb:
 
BS - Seller TopSecretJob on Ebay - 400 by 400mm Perforated Stainless for around a tenner ;)
 
He can do bigger . . . Drop him a mail . . . I've got a 500 by 500 for 12.50 IIRC . . . it was some time ago
 

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