Ebay sale of Fermenters, Crates, Bottles, Beer Kits etc.

[Barticus]

Hi all, I have now given up Home Brewing and four unsuccessful attempts

All my gear has today been added to Ebay if anyone North East based is interested. It would need collecting from East Boldon, Tyne and Wear. NE36

Auction 1: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261095841292? ... 500wt_1288

This is for 3 x Grolsch crates and loads of Cooper plastic and glass bottles.

Auction 2: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261095846267? ... 500wt_1288

This is for the new collar model Coopers Fermenter and another 27 litre see thru fermenter with tap made by the Home Brew shop in Hetton.

Auction 3: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261095849236? ... 500wt_1288

This is for whats left and includes....

1 x Brand New Woodfordes Wherry Beer Kit
1 x Brand New Coopers English Bitter Kit
1 x Bottle Capper
Numerous Caps
2 x packets of Coopers carbonation drops
1 x Coopers Hydrometer
1 x Coopers Little Bottler
1 x Coopers Mixing spoon.


Thanks for all the help and stuff during my short time here. A great site. :

 

[PD]

Sorry it didn't work out for you this time. Cant you keep some basic kit in case you decide to have another attempt later..... Now you bought them they dont cost anything to keep..

 

[BigYin]

flog the kits, keep everything else :thumb:

You might well feel like giving it another bash after a while - or trying a brew in a bag style all grain brew - or lobbing in a wine kit - who knows - but loads of people return to brewing after a while to give it another go.. the fermenters and bottles will keep just fine in the loft, out of the way, until the notion seizes you once more

 

[Russ146]

4 unsuccessful attempts?????

You must be doing something seriously wrong to be that unlucky, i'm on my 15th perfect brew since i started.

Follow this recipe EXACTLY and you wont go wrong. I only use two can kits such as wherry, Ruby and so on

This is exactly what i do:

1, Fill fermenter with sterilising solution with long handled spoon inside
2, Stand cans in a pot of hot water on the stove,
3, Fill kettle and switch on.
4, when water in the pot is hot, turn can over. then turn off heat.
5, By now the fermenter should be clean, so empty out and rinse well
6, rinse top of cans and can opener with boiling water from the kettle.
7, Open both cans and pour into fermenter.
8, Pour water from kettle into cans to soften any malt left.
9, refill kettle and boil again then rinse out cans again and add to fermenter and stir until dissolved.
10, Fill up to 5 gallon mark plus half an inch (assuming its a 5 gal kit) sprinkle on the yeast and put lid on.

11, Place in required position and insert airlock and fill,
12, Place heater belt about 2 inches from the bottom around fermenter.
13, If you dont have a belt GET ONE, This maintains the correct temp which is crucial for the fermentation process.
14, Ignore what the box says,
15, Leave to ferment for 14 days, do not disturb/ look in or anything that could allow air to get to the brew. I never test with hydrometers or anything, this only increases the risk of contaminating the brew. This will allow complete fermentation reducing any yeast flavours.

16, After 14 days
17, Carefully place fermenter on a worktop ready for transferring. I also place a wedge of wood at the back underneath to get as much out as possible.
18, sterilise pressure barrel (and long spoon and syhpon tube) and rinse (bottling is a waste of time, get a barrel if you want proper draught beer)
19, pour 100gms of sugar into the barrel.
20, Place barrel on floor or chair that is lower than the fermenter.
21, Carefully syphon the beer into the barrel keeping the tube below the level in both, This stops the brew being oxidised or air entering the brew that could introduce off flavours.
22, When done, stir to dissolve the sugar and screw on the lid ensuring the seal is in place.
23, I tap tight with a rubber mallet and small stone chisel to ensure a good seal.
24, Place back where fermenter was and fit heater belt onto barrel and switch on.
25, leave on for 2 days then remove.

26, Conditioning stage.
27, the longer you leave it the better it gets 4 weeks minimum.
28, For instance the IPA i am drinking now was sweet last week @ 2 weeks old
29, Now 3 weeks old its improved and lost some of the sweetness hence the resemblance to 6x.
30, i do all of the above exactly the same every time and every beer has been amazing.
31, I have 3 barrels in rotation that gives me a regular supply of well conditioned beer. If you dont have at least 3 barrels then the temptation is to drink the beer too soon and never really appreciate what the conditioning process does

If you follow this recipe you will have some of the best beers that match any pub beer

I really cant believe how good this beer is. I have just barrelled a Sundew and have a Ruby fermenting followed by another Wherry.

I love it

Russ

 

[kev]

Sorry to hear someone leaving the hobby so early on......if you weren't great at golf after 4 rounds would you sell your clubs?

Also - I may get shouted at for this, but brewing 1 can kits and not getting pub-quality results isn't surprising. Did you try any higher quality kits? Maybe an extract batch?

I brewed years ago and made kits - guess what......they were ****. I then moth-balled all my gear and forgot about it. Five years later I decided to give all grain a go and modified my gear to work and bought the parts I was missing. Now I'm on over 30 batches of great tasting beer.

K

 

[graysalchemy]

Sorry to hear that but if I were you get it off ebay and get back on that horse.

As Kev says try a 2 can kit or make additions to your kits ie hops and malt extract. Also how long were you leaving your beer to mature ?

:thumb:

 

[Barticus]

4 unsuccessful attempts?????

You must be doing something seriously wrong to be that unlucky, i'm on my 15th perfect brew since i started.

Follow this recipe EXACTLY and you wont go wrong. I only use two can kits such as wherry, Ruby and so on

This is exactly what i do:

1, Fill fermenter with sterilising solution with long handled spoon inside
2, Stand cans in a pot of hot water on the stove,
3, Fill kettle and switch on.
4, when water in the pot is hot, turn can over. then turn off heat.
5, By now the fermenter should be clean, so empty out and rinse well
6, rinse top of cans and can opener with boiling water from the kettle.
7, Open both cans and pour into fermenter.
8, Pour water from kettle into cans to soften any malt left.
9, refill kettle and boil again then rinse out cans again and add to fermenter and stir until dissolved.
10, Fill up to 5 gallon mark plus half an inch (assuming its a 5 gal kit) sprinkle on the yeast and put lid on.

11, Place in required position and insert airlock and fill,
12, Place heater belt about 2 inches from the bottom around fermenter.
13, If you dont have a belt GET ONE, This maintains the correct temp which is crucial for the fermentation process.
14, Ignore what the box says,
15, Leave to ferment for 14 days, do not disturb/ look in or anything that could allow air to get to the brew. I never test with hydrometers or anything, this only increases the risk of contaminating the brew. This will allow complete fermentation reducing any yeast flavours.

16, After 14 days
17, Carefully place fermenter on a worktop ready for transferring. I also place a wedge of wood at the back underneath to get as much out as possible.
18, sterilise pressure barrel (and long spoon and syhpon tube) and rinse (bottling is a waste of time, get a barrel if you want proper draught beer)
19, pour 100gms of sugar into the barrel.
20, Place barrel on floor or chair that is lower than the fermenter.
21, Carefully syphon the beer into the barrel keeping the tube below the level in both, This stops the brew being oxidised or air entering the brew that could introduce off flavours.
22, When done, stir to dissolve the sugar and screw on the lid ensuring the seal is in place.
23, I tap tight with a rubber mallet and small stone chisel to ensure a good seal.
24, Place back where fermenter was and fit heater belt onto barrel and switch on.
25, leave on for 2 days then remove.

26, Conditioning stage.
27, the longer you leave it the better it gets 4 weeks minimum.
28, For instance the IPA i am drinking now was sweet last week @ 2 weeks old
29, Now 3 weeks old its improved and lost some of the sweetness hence the resemblance to 6x.
30, i do all of the above exactly the same every time and every beer has been amazing.
31, I have 3 barrels in rotation that gives me a regular supply of well conditioned beer. If you dont have at least 3 barrels then the temptation is to drink the beer too soon and never really appreciate what the conditioning process does

If you follow this recipe you will have some of the best beers that match any pub beer

I really cant believe how good this beer is. I have just barrelled a Sundew and have a Ruby fermenting followed by another Wherry.

I love it

Russ

Cheers for that Russ. I honestly have tried everything from different waters to different sterilising fluids and each time the same result.

At some point I will give boil in a bag a go but that will probably be a few years when the little one goes to school.

Ive come to the conclusion I must you have weird taste buds. :)

I do still have lots of bottles of Coopers lager, Woodfordes Wherry, St Peters Ruby Red and Coopers Real ale and will keep having the odd try to see if they come good before chucking. However some are already 4 months old and still taste ****. Its no as though they are different either, they all have the same nasty twang.

 

[Barticus]

Sorry to hear someone leaving the hobby so early on......if you weren't great at golf after 4 rounds would you sell your clubs?

Also - I may get shouted at for this, but brewing 1 can kits and not getting pub-quality results isn't surprising. Did you try any higher quality kits? Maybe an extract batch?

I brewed years ago and made kits - guess what......they were ****. I then moth-balled all my gear and forgot about it. Five years later I decided to give all grain a go and modified my gear to work and bought the parts I was missing. Now I'm on over 30 batches of great tasting beer.

K

Thing is with Golf is that I can still get enjoyment playing ****. Ive done two two can kits and both turned out the same. When you have done everything right and have shelves filled with 200 **** tasting bottles, you cant just keep going.


As mentioned earlier I might give biab a go in a few years when theres no bairns running around.

 

[Barticus]

Just a reminder that these three listings end today in 3 hours. Currently you can get a the New Coopers FV and another FV (both with taps) for only £6 the pair :)

 

[PD]

would love the coopers fv but I can't collect.... :-(

 

[Russ146]

Cheers for that Russ. I honestly have tried everything from different waters to different sterilising fluids and each time the same result.

At some point I will give boil in a bag a go but that will probably be a few years when the little one goes to school.

Ive come to the conclusion I must you have weird taste buds. :)

I do still have lots of bottles of Coopers lager, Woodfordes Wherry, St Peters Ruby Red and Coopers Real ale and will keep having the odd try to see if they come good before chucking. However some are already 4 months old and still taste ****. Its no as though they are different either, they all have the same nasty twang.[/quote]

The nasty tang is coming from contamination and if its happening every time then you cannot be sterilising everything properly.

Or, do you use fresh clean water from the mains? or have you been using water from the hot tap?

There has to be one reason why every brew is bad

List what you do

 

[loppy]

Got to love your determination russ not to let a fellow brewer fall by the way side.
Super stuff!!! :thumb: