Fly sparge or batch sparge

[regaltabs]

I am building a single tier system with pumps but I am not going RIMS or HERMS yet due to cost and lack of experience with AG.

So with an insulated mash tun and the ability to set it up as I want to is it best to set up to Fly or Batch sparge?

What will the difference be to the end result?

 

[evanvine]

Which is the better method, now there's a question?
It may well be down to personal preference and bias.
To my mind, in theory, fly sparging should be the most efficient at gettIng all the sugars out of the grain bed, but it does need a bit more equipment/effort.
I personally "fly" sparge, I find it easy to get the length I want.
The argument against doing this, some say, is you leech the tannins out of the grain with over sparging.
I, personally, have never had this happen, even though the gravity of the wort being extracted has many times been 1.000.
It is my belief, that if you sparge with water that is too hot, this will happen.
The choice is essentially yours.
Helpful aren't I! :whistle:

 

[adomant]

Batch sparging is easier to manage and the only downside (potential lower efficiency) can be mitigated by adding a bit more grain. Commercials usually fly because they can't waste anything, in home brew, that would be negligible

 

[orlando]

You could watch this as a part of your research on it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ki61_HppGnY

Personally I fly sparge but haven't batch sparged so can't really comment. I like the involvement of fly sparging but it can be fiddly.

 

[The Goatreich]

I was going to post this exact question today!

I've been recommended to go with batch sparging to start with, as it's easier. I understand that with fly sparging you keep going until the gravity reading is at a certain level, but is this still the case with batch sparging? Or do you just put in all of your remaining liquor at the sparge temp, and keep going until it's all gone?

 

[evanvine]

I understand that with fly sparging you keep going until the gravity reading is at a certain level

This makes me ask the question - how can the presence of sugar stop any tannins from being extracted? :wha:

 

[hairybiker]

Well I used to be a dedicated fly sparger, then this year (last 3 batches anyway) I decided to try batch sparging.
Result maybe 3-5 points lower in fg. But that could be down to many things, especially the way I brew
If a recipe calls for 4.75kg of grain I may use 4.75/4.8/5 depending on how much is left. :wha:
I am by no means an anal retentive brewer :evil: I just like drinking the stuff :

So by all means go batch and when you have the money try fly if you want to but the ease of batch may keep you doing it that way - I can sparge the first runnings into the boiler then put the power on while the second is resting - result a quicker brew day - if you have a separate hlt :thumb:

 

[Swift Pint]

Im do BIAB so I'm in the passive sparge camp. I have however been known to dabble in other methods. Currently I BIAB due to space restrictions and only brewing small batches, but I'd be tempted to do full volume mashes on larger batches due to the simplicity and time savings.

You dont need to faff around working out how much liquor for different batches and you dont need to worry about your running becoming too low in gravity & the associated tannins.

Total volume of wort desired in the kettle + mash tun deadspace + water that will be absorbed by the grain = Mash liquor.
Simple. Easy to replicate = consistent brewing. Efficiency = low 80s%. Time saved on sparging. Win, win, win. :thumb:

 

[Andyhull]

I saw something once where a watering can with a standard rose attachment was used to sparge.
Not sure how good this would be but it would be a very cheap way of doing it if was any good!

 

[Hawks]

I keep thinking about moving to fly sparging having always batch sparged - however I've not yet seen a valid reason for me to do so. Occasionally I push my mash tun to its limits, and if I was to get a larger boiler I think I'd have to move over, but as it stands batch sparge works fine for me and my efficiency is around 85% :thumb:

Its also really easy

 

[The Goatreich]

Sold, I just need to get my head around the calculations now :)

 

[dennisking]

I have always fly sparged for the simple reason when I started brewing there was never an mention of batch sparge. My spinney thing broke once so I had to do an emergency batch sparge. Didn't feel like real brewing without a fly sparge but didn't have an real effect on the beer.

 

[regaltabs]

Thanks for all the comments.

I get the feeling that personal taste/choice is the way forward. :hmm:

 

[Good Ed]

It's a bit like making a cup of coffee from ground beans, I don't have a percolator or filter so I just simmer some coffee in a pan and pour it through a sieve into the cup, however a Barista would have a fit with this method.

I have always fly sparged, it just seems right for me, it usually takes me an hour for a 23L brew length, no reason to rush, and I'm able to control the grain bed temperature, and usually sparge with the grain bed at 72-73C.

 

[dennisdk2000]

This makes me ask the question - how can the presence of sugar stop any tannins from being extracted? :wha:

Without knowing for sure, my guess is that it has something to do with the osmotic pressure exerted my the sugar... but I'm not an expert.

Im do BIAB so I'm in the passive sparge camp. I have however been known to dabble in other methods. Currently I BIAB due to space restrictions and only brewing small batches, but I'd be tempted to do full volume mashes on larger batches due to the simplicity and time savings.

What is BIAB? I do small batches too, and simplicity and consistency sounds good to me!

It's a bit like making a cup of coffee from ground beans, I don't have a percolator or filter so I just simmer some coffee in a pan and pour it through a sieve into the cup, however a Barista would have a fit with this method.

I think a barista would have a fit even at a percolator! :lol: However, I'm intrigued at the idea of espresso-style sparging, but not sure it would work... something to ponder with a homebrew...

Dennis

 

[Swift Pint]

Dennis - BIAB stands for Brew in a Bag.
You only need one vessel - the boiler. You then mash in the boiler, using the full volume of water, but with the grain in grain bag (hence the name). Then at the end of the mash you pull the grain bag out, let it drip for a bit, and then turn the boiler on & procede with your brew as usual. It saves the time of sparging, and saves a bunch of space. Its also quite a good way to step up from extract cos all you need to buy is a grain bag :thumb:

Thats quite a short descriptions, but the guys at http://www.biabrewer.info/ have loads more, if you're interested!
Also, theres a very good Beersmith podcast on it, which I'd recommend listening to if you fancy giving it a try.

 

[dennisdk2000]

Thanks SP! :thumb:

Dennis

 

[Laurin]

Have a listen to this radio show its all about sparging.
http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/540

 

[prolix]

Done fly sparging, batch sparging and full volume no sparging.

Batch is simplest but more effort at bigger lengths
fly needs more equipment but works well on a gravity fed 3 teir system,
no sparge is because I can, I recirculate the full volume rather than BIAB, benefits one less pot but pumps and other stuff needed.

 

[evanvine]

Fly sparge for ever and ever and ever!