How to add DME to a LME kit?

[johnmalc]

I've only done 2 can or "Premium" kits since I got back itno brewing some years ago but recently my supplier (in Athens, Greece) has really cut back on stocks so I am forced to try the small choice he has in 1 can kits. To that end I just received a Muntons Nut Brown Ale, 1.8Kg, kit. As I don't want to add sugar I also have 1Kg Muntons Light DME; my problem is, I don't know how to add it to the mix. I have done a lot of searching on the web and the preferred method seems to be to gradually add it to cold water to avoid "clumping", but do I then boil up that mix and use it as my 3.5L of hot water to add to the LME? As I have never used the stuff I could do with some advice. I'm anxious to get it going as the temps down here in southern Greece are rapidly rising and my cooler will begin to struggle soon.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Pavros]

I usually add the kit extract to a couple of litres of cold water in the fv, having let it sit in a pan of warm water for 10 to 15 minutes to soften it.
Then clean the tin out with boiling water and add that to the fv, mixing it well. Sometimes have to do this stage again if I don't clean all the extract from the tin.
Then slowly add the dried extract to the fermenter, stirring all the time to stop it clumping too badly.
Then top up the fv to the required level (20 litres usually in my case). Stir thoroughly to oxygenate, add yeast and leave.

No additional boiling of the DME is needed.

It doesn't matter too much if the dried extract clumps together as the yeast will break it down anyway but, if you are using hydrometer readings, your OG will not be high enough as the malt is not completely mixed with the water.

 

[johnmalc]

Many thanks for the quick reply, and for the info that I don't have to boil the DME. All the threads I read online were about adding the DME to all grain brews, and when to add it to the boil; not applicable here, thanks.

 

[Gerryjo]

+1 on Pavros.
DME/LME are all packaged in a sterile environment and you have no need to boil.

Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk

 

[johnmalc]

It doesn't matter too much if the dried extract clumps together as the yeast will break it down anyway but, if you are using hydrometer readings, your OG will not be high enough as the malt is not completely mixed with the water.

Right, took this onboard; as it is my first brew using DME I want to know the OG, so I decided to add the DME into cold water first. Obvious very quickly that this stuff re-defines the word clumping, so stopped trying to just stir it. Instead took a (sterilised) plastic hand whisk, big difference, 1Kg DME in 3L water produces a smooth, creamy mix with loads of aeration! Added that to the wort, topped up to 21L, job done. OG only 1042 so perhaps not as well mixed as I hoped, but as I want lightweight summer quaffing beer , if it comes out at around 4.2% I'll be very happy. Thanks for the help!:thumb:

 

[johnnyboy1965]

Add the DME to cold water, not cold water to the DME. Bring it to a boil, then use this as a base for your kit.

 

[Pavros]

I have not done that kit before but an OG of 1.042 is probably about right for a 1 can kit. I usually get an ABV of between 3.5% and 4.5%, normally about 0.5% less than advertised on the tin.

It's only the Youngs American range and Bulldog 4 Finger Jack where I have exceeded the ABV advertised unless I add extra fermentables.

 

[Pavros]

Right, took this onboard; as it is my first brew using DME I want to know the OG, so I decided to add the DME into cold water first. Obvious very quickly that this stuff re-defines the word clumping, so stopped trying to just stir it.

That's why I add the kit extract and some boiling water to the fv first. It makes it easier to dissolve the DME.