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Saxon

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Since I have a few brews lined up I figured I would create a thread.

After getting to grips with the practicalities with my first brew (what is shaping up to be a rather sweet "hedgerow" pale ale) my first attempt following a recipe is for Theakston's Old Peculiar, a personal and family favourite (using the CAMRA recipe).

I carried out the brew today (actual measures, slightly different to recipe):

Pale malt (Bairds) 5460 g
crystal malt (crafty brews) 300 g
chocolate malt (crafty brews) 222 g
Challenger hops (craty brews) 30 g boil start
Fuggles hops (crafty brews) 15 g boil start
East Kent Goldings (crafty brews) 15 g 10 min left
Irish Moss (Brupak) 6 g 10 min left (added twice the amount by mistake)
Safale S-04 yeast (this wasn't the recipe yeast but hopefully this will be fine at a third of the price?)
A couple of grams of Goldings for dry hopping

Mashed at 66 C for 90 min: in reality, 66-64 C over 45 mins, top-up with hot liquor and stir in to 66 C again for final 45 min. Then sparged at 77 C. My brother's shed stool is the perfect height to get a three-tiered system going. I don't have a hot liquor tank and a boiler, so I sparge into a bucket and then decant that back into the boiler afterwards. The collander works very well to prevent disturbing the grain bed and you can get a nice continuous sparge going.



So, my pre boil gravity was 1034, and if my calculations are to be believed, that would give me a mash efficiency of 76%? Once I had collected 23 L the wort was definitely still coloured. I wonder if I didn't use enough liquor for the mash?

(pale malt max 38, medium crystal 34, chocolate 28 -> multiply each by kg then divide total by vol (5 gallons) which gives 45 ppg (44.8) as the max? So 1034/1045 is 76%. - criticism welcome!)


This time I added the whole 23 L to the boiler after doing some tests beforehand to check the volume properly (it says 27 L on the sticker on the side but that is pure fantasy). 23 L is slightly above the max line, but it seems ok (and turned out to be ok). The main downside to this boiler it appears is that since its basically a tea-urn it clicks on and off constantly and so doesn't have a consistent rolling simmer for the entire time like a stove kettle (if that's the correct name) would. In any case, it's been fine for me for the time being.

I then cool to about 28 C before transferring to the fermentation bucket (which had made a cameo in the previous step as the sparge bucket - before being washed and sterilised).



I find that after transferring, the temperature in the bucket has dropped to about 24 C since the tap is small so with a slow flow rate, hence cooling to 28 Cin the boiler. A ton of air gets in this way before pitching the yeast which is great though - which I do at 24 C to encourage it to get going.



The gravity at this point was 1054, slightly down on the 1058 in the recipe. Is this due to a poorer efficiency in the mash? Still, quite happy with it and it looks great (and smells good).

The downside of my set-up is that the boiler is a pain to clean, and having seen a number of other threads now where hop bags have been used, this is something I am quite keen to get hold of.

This is the final wort pre-pitch. Colour looks great and the head already looks like Old Peculiar! Optimistic!



I only managed to get about 17.5 L this time, I was hoping for 20 L after the boil but couldn't get the dregs out due to the hop crud - hence the desire to get a hop bag which will hopefully allow access to the elusive remaining volume!

Now just to wait until I take a gravity reading in a week.

Cheers!
 
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That will improve things. By the way your boiler should not turn on and off. Many people bypass the thermostat or move the temp sensor to maintain a rolling boil. Do you have a lot of crud stuck to the bottom when you finish the boil? That can flip it on and off.
 
That will improve things. By the way your boiler should not turn on and off. Many people bypass the thermostat or move the temp sensor to maintain a rolling boil. Do you have a lot of crud stuck to the bottom when you finish the boil? That can flip it on and off.

I do have a fair bit stuck to the bottom. So I guess I should try with the hop bag and see if that changes anything? You can hear an audible click when it turns on, and when it reaches temperature it switches off (the simmering stops).

That said, I don't know how often it does this, as for a long stretch on the 90 minute boil today it was going without stopping that I noticed (hence the mess over the sides).
 
Seems like you've done your homework and got loads of things right on your this brewday. Being adaptable when things don't go quite to plan is a good skill to have, and looking for ways to improve each time is a must.

Your wort looks a great colour, I must try an OP clone sometime.
 
It cuts out for a good reason - safety. Instead of bypassing the overheat protection why not correct the reason for the overheat in the first place? Installing some forced air cooling into the wall around the base where the element is housed ought to do it.
 
It cuts out for a good reason - safety.
Hi!
Some boilers, especially those originally designed to be tea urns, use a thermostat to switch off and on contnuously to maintain a constant temperature. Obviously, this needs to be by-passed to enable a rolling boil. This will not result in a dangerous piece of equipment.
 
Hi @Saxon
Definitely look into modifying your boiler so that it gives a contiuous boil without cutouts.
What brand is it?

It just came with a kit from the brewuk shop (my local). I think it's from brupak? I'd definitely be interested in modifying this if there is a way to bypass it safely. It makes it a bit of a nightmare for boil overs because all of a sudden it goes bananas when it switches back on.
 

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