Wort cooling

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Rapid cooling is just as important as the hot break to ensure clear ales/largers{chill haze}

Well, it might be important with lagers - don't know since I neither drink nor brew them.

However, I brew very clear ales without wort chilling or any rapid cooling. Takes a while, though. Preferably at least 4 weeks before bottling (5-7 days primary FV , into secondary taking it up to 2 weeks, then a further 2 weeks in cask before bottling. My target is then 4-6 weeks in bottle before drinking. As you might expect, there isn't a lot left by the 6 week target! :lol:
 
Well, it might be important with lagers - don't know since I neither drink nor brew them.

However, I brew very clear ales without wort chilling or any rapid cooling. Takes a while, though. Preferably at least 4 weeks before bottling (5-7 days primary FV , into secondary taking it up to 2 weeks, then a further 2 weeks in cask before bottling. My target is then 4-6 weeks in bottle before drinking. As you might expect, there isn't a lot left by the 6 week target! :lol:

6 WEEKS? i would have has 2 lots :lol:
 
Well, it might be important with lagers - don't know since I neither drink nor brew them.

However, I brew very clear ales without wort chilling or any rapid cooling. Takes a while, though. Preferably at least 4 weeks before bottling (5-7 days primary FV , into secondary taking it up to 2 weeks, then a further 2 weeks in cask before bottling. My target is then 4-6 weeks in bottle before drinking. As you might expect, there isn't a lot left by the 6 week target! :lol:

I think those 4 weeks prior to bottling are the key to your clear beers. A lot of the protiens/tannins/etc will have settled out by then
 
Built this whilst my wort was mashing.

About 18m (massively overkill) of 10mm pipe, a large paint tin (~10" diameter), what's actually needed for the end is a 10mm to 1/2" female reducing elbow, and a male threaded barb fitting, the cacophony of metalwork is doing the same thing just with what was to hand.

Top tips: you can only really bend it once, after that it kinks. So after straightening out the ends to make the vertical bits, bending a 180deg bend to get them pointing down is almost impossible.



2016-03-20_05-34-45 by thisisnotaspoon, on Flickr
 
Apologises for the almost duplicate post.

Totally baffled as to why this happened.

When in doubt, blame the technology!!


Rapid cooling is just as important as the hot break to ensure clear ales/largers{chill haze}

Can you provide more info on this? References, experiences, whatever!. I only ask because I'm genuinely interested - but sceptical when it comes to ales. I don't brew lagers, or use a lager malt.
I don't chill - never have - and I normally produce a clear ale. Eventually. It sometimes takes a month in bottle to achieve crystal clear. And that's after a previous month - in 2 fermentors then a cask. But no chilling is involved at any stage.
My experience suggests that the characteristics of the yeast I use are the most important thing for me - especially the flocculation & sedimentation behaviour - in how quickly my beer clears. Perhaps chilling would accelerate things - but should this be wort chilling or post-fermentation chilling?
Hey - I'm also pretty certain that my no-chill method gives an interesting insight to this. I leave my beer overnight, in the boiler, to cool. In the morning, all the solids have settled out. I normally find that my supernatant is very clear - but of course fermentation changes this.
But it seems to me that I produce a pretty clear wort without chilling.
 
Last edited:
Apologises for the almost duplicate post.

Totally baffled as to why this happened.

When in doubt, blame the technology!!




Can you provide more info on this? References, experiences, whatever!. I only ask because I'm genuinely interested - but sceptical when it comes to ales. I don't brew lagers, or use a lager malt.
I don't chill - never have - and I normally produce a clear ale. Eventually. It sometimes takes a month in bottle to achieve crystal clear. And that's after a previous month - in 2 fermentors then a cask. But no chilling is involved at any stage.
My experience suggests that the characteristics of the yeast I use are the most important thing for me - especially the flocculation & sedimentation behaviour - in how quickly my beer clears. Perhaps chilling would accelerate things - but should this be wort chilling or post-fermentation chilling?
Hey - I'm also pretty certain that my no-chill method gives an interesting insight to this. I leave my beer overnight, in the boiler, to cool. In the morning, all the solids have settled out. I normally find that my supernatant is very clear - but of course fermentation changes this.
But it seems to me that I produce a pretty clear wort without chilling.

Heres a link
https://www.google.be/url?sa=t&rct=...e-wort&usg=AFQjCNGBTdpSVAQrKOBFCNtb8i4s4Af9LQ
 

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