Instant cooler - Lindr PYGMY 20 & photos

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Fore, many thanks for taking the time to test out the volumes for me.
I bottle at the moment and as Steve has suggested, for one pint a night, I may be better to stick with that and I was thinking of turning the unit on each day at beer o'clock on a timer which might not be the best idea. I am now doing smaller batch sizes and was looking to cut down on bottling time by going keg, I'll have a think, thanks again everyone.
 
since doing away with all JG fittings except the elbow out at the back of the unit and going all QDs I have no bad first pulls anymore.i do have a non return inline valve on the gas out line but not one on the beer out line.may get round to it soon:thumb:

I had a terrible time with this machine to start with just pouring foam and beer was under carbed , the problem was I was not serving at a high enough pressure , I assumed it was because it was to high it was foaming , I carb my keg to 36psi now and serve at that and what a machine , ice cold pints every time I've never looked back , fancy a bigger one now
 
I had a terrible time with this machine to start with just pouring foam and beer was under carbed , the problem was I was not serving at a high enough pressure , I assumed it was because it was to high it was foaming , I carb my keg to 36psi now and serve at that and what a machine , ice cold pints every time I've never looked back , fancy a bigger one now
Yep,found that myself that trying to serve at low pressure is a bit of a pain, once the pygmy is in its stride say after 10 mins the CO2 in the beer drops out like it was in a keezer and pours fine.love mine particularly this time of year and I only run around a metre of beer line
 
in order to retain the condition in the beer you need to store the keg at a pressure that will maintain condition at the ambient temperature of the keg and not the serving temp.

a kegging chart is a useful lookup tool but bear in mind its from a US source and imho the yanks like a bit more fizz in their brews..
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&ved=0CFoQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kegerators.com%2Farticles%2Fcarbonation-table-pressure-chart.php&ei=Tn_MUv_qC5CqhAfL5YHQAw&usg=AFQjCNFBmyJM8-kSKjo26ur1iyUdS-nxpA&sig2=xbA22cKg6g1riDhoRe225w&bvm=bv.58187178,d.ZG4
 
I'm really into line balance right now; it's my interest of the moment.

I must say, I struggle to see how you can resolve foam in the glass by upping the PSI. Currently my keg sits at 12 PSI, and I'm really struggling to get foam, so the opposite of your problem. Tonight I hacked off about one third of my beer line to try and shake things up a bit, literally! I will not be touching my PSI to address my head issue, because I already decided what volumes of CO2 I want in my beer, and I set my keg PSI at the necessary setting to achieve that volume of CO2 for the temperature the keg is sitting at. From that point on, it's ONLY about beer line.

What diameter and length is your beer line? It might give some clue as to your issue.

Where the Pygmy does shake things up a bit, is in the varied temperature that the keg sits at throughout the year. For those with a chilled keg at a regulated temperature, they at least remove one variable. In my case, with my keg just sitting in my cellar, if I want the same volumes of CO2 in all my beers throughout the year, then I'm going to have to change my keg PSI as the ambient cellar temperature changes. See chart down the page here... http://ale.gd/blog/2015/08/under-pressure-keg-beer-pressure-in-the-uk.

And as I change my keg PSI to maintain the desired volumes of CO2, it has a knock-on effect to my serving pressure, so I'll have to adjust my beer line length to compensate. So in winter for example, when the cold beer easily absorbs CO2, I might need set only 6 PSI to achieve the desired volumes of CO2 in my beer. But then I won't have much head pressure to push the beer out fast enough to create a head. And in summer, when the beer refuses to easily absorb CO2, I might need to set 22 PSI to achieve exactly the same volumes of CO2, i.e. the same carbonation in the beer in my glass. And the problem then is, there will be loads of pressure pushing out my beer, so I'll need a longer line to reduce the serving pressure, to reduce the speed, to reduce the foam. Still the same carbonation in the beer in the glass though, assuming I haven't lost CO2 through foaming.
 
I had a terrible time with this machine to start with just pouring foam and beer was under carbed , the problem was I was not serving at a high enough pressure , I assumed it was because it was to high it was foaming , I carb my keg to 36psi now and serve at that and what a machine , ice cold pints every time I've never looked back , fancy a bigger one now

P.S. I just had an idea as to what might be happening here. I only speculate though...
If you only drink one beer a day, then the 250ml of beer sitting in the Pygmy will warm up and release its CO2. The CO2 won't be reabsorbed when you switch on the Pygmy in advance of your beer the following day, because there isn't the pressure or time for that. So when you pour your pint, you start off with foam and fairly flat beer. It takes a good 250ml for that to clear up, then you start pulling very highly carbonated beer, to fill your glass. Once mixed in your glass, you are about hitting your desired beer volumes of CO2. Of course, this assumes you only drink one pint a day, and would only work for the first pint, all the rest would be very highly carbonated.
 
since doing away with all JG fittings except the elbow out at the back of the unit and going all QDs I have no bad first pulls anymore.i do have a non return inline valve on the gas out line but not one on the beer out line.may get round to it soon:thumb:

Thanks Godsdog, that is interesting. I need to look into this a bit further.
 
I currently have mine down in the cellar, which is about 15 or 16*C. It is permanently switched on and set to the minimum cooling effect. It is ideal in this situation, with the compressor switching on very infrequently. If the room was a lot warmer, and the keg was sitting at ambient then it is going to kick in much more frequently.

Even with the machine on all the time, the first pour isn't necessarily that great, so I don't think it is just down to temperature why the condition is lost.
 
Just as an aside, I started (and still use apart from the co2 dosing method shown) this method of storage and dispensing of beer. I have beer well over 6 months old stored and dispensed in this fashion, and they still taste great.

This is the perfect solution (with a co2 cylinder and regulator that can also be left in the fridge) for the one pint a night pour. Gas the beer up to your satisfaction, and if it is too frothy when you pour, turn off the gas and pull the release valve on the top of the cornie - just leaving enough that it pours well. If you are only having the one, then just turn the gas back on. Once you have a corny setup then you can think about a counter pressure filler for bottles, or mini kegs. If you really want a Lindr type machine afterwards, then you have all the necessary equipment to get it to work properly

image.jpeg
 
P.S. I just had an idea as to what might be happening here. I only speculate though...
If you only drink one beer a day, then the 250ml of beer sitting in the Pygmy will warm up and release its CO2. The CO2 won't be reabsorbed when you switch on the Pygmy in advance of your beer the following day, because there isn't the pressure or time for that. So when you pour your pint, you start off with foam and fairly flat beer. It takes a good 250ml for that to clear up, then you start pulling very highly carbonated beer, to fill your glass. Once mixed in your glass, you are about hitting your desired beer volumes of CO2. Of course, this assumes you only drink one pint a day, and would only work for the first pint, all the rest would be very highly carbonated.
Unfortunately I can never just have one pint , usually when I break out the chiller it's to empty a keg in one night with my friends
 
Unfortunately I can never just have one pint , usually when I break out the chiller it's to empty a keg in one night with my friends
Then my speculation was wrong :smile:. Still can't get my head around you upping the PSI to solve your foaming problem. And 36 psi seems like touching the stars to me. I'd have to be serving hefeweizen at 25 degrees to get into those lofty realms. I don't even think I force carb at that :lol:
 
My wife bought for my birthday one of those barrels that have been converted to have a door at the front with a shelf inside.

I have been searching for a mini fridge that will fit inside and house two 5l kegs, including the fitting that will allow them to dispense to the rear of a Lindr machine. The Lindr machine would look great sitting on top of this barrel.

The reason for the mini fridge, is that I think one of the problems of using the Lindr machines is of keeping the kegs at ambient temperature. Not necessarily a problem if you are finishing off the keg in one evening, but more so if you keeping them for a week or two at variable temperatures.
 
I be honest I make my lagers or pilsners and leave it a few months to condition then transfer to a keg and set gas to 36psi in my garage , I leave it for 4 or 5 days at that pressure at whatever temp is at the time depending on weather, I then connect to the chiller and I have brilliant carbed lagers served ice cold through the lindr machine , I have been doing things this way for a while , weather I have been lucky I don't know but I ain't going to change how I do it as it is spot on for me ,I use perhaps 2m of 3/8 beer line and that's it
 
Euan, don't get me wrong, I'm not questioning your approach. If it works it works. Just educating myself on the subject and trying to figure out how to go from foam at low PSI, to no foam at high PSI. Either there is some key issue that I haven't yet got to grips with, or something else is at play in your set-up. Either way, it would be interesting to know what it is. Currently I'm running at 15 degrees, 15 PSI, about 2.0 volumes of CO2, and I just can't get my serving flow rate fast enough to create head. I've now cut my 3/16th line as short as I can practically get it, about 60cm I'd say. So for the first time in years, I think I'm about to step up to larger diameter line. In some ways it's a good thing, as, just like bars, I'll be pouring a pint in a matter of seconds.
 
Euan, don't get me wrong, I'm not questioning your approach. If it works it works. Just educating myself on the subject and trying to figure out how to go from foam at low PSI, to no foam at high PSI. Either there is some key issue that I haven't yet got to grips with, or something else is at play in your set-up. Either way, it would be interesting to know what it is. Currently I'm running at 15 degrees, 15 PSI, about 2.0 volumes of CO2, and I just can't get my serving flow rate fast enough to create head. I've now cut my 3/16th line as short as I can practically get it, about 60cm I'd say. So for the first time in years, I think I'm about to step up to larger diameter line. In some ways it's a good thing, as, just like bars, I'll be pouring a pint in a matter of seconds.

When I used the 3/16 line running approx one metre I had to serve at 50+psi to stop foaming , I know it is strange , I contacted the Czechoslovakian manufacturers direct and they told me I was getting foam as to low a pressure and I should be serving at 36psi , why I have no idea but I'm Def not changing as I spent a lot of time trying to stop the foaming by changing beer line lengths , diameter I even introduced a 3/8 beer line with a 4 inch reduced section to a 3/16 which apparently stopped foaming , none of this worked for me so I was over the moon when I upped the pressure and I poured a great pint , I hope you find a solution to it though
 
Is there an ideal length for the beer line?

I am just about to hook up my Lindr (2 tap version) and it came with a long length of beer line. I asked the question of the suppliers and they said make it as short as possible. In view of what I've read above is that correct or what have you found to be an ideal starting length?
 
Is there an ideal length for the beer line?

I am just about to hook up my Lindr (2 tap version) and it came with a long length of beer line. I asked the question of the suppliers and they said make it as short as possible. In view of what I've read above is that correct or what have you found to be an ideal starting length?
As others have said,there is no definitive answer to that question as there are lots of parameters to consider,internal bore,length,psi and temperature of your ale,so its a case of suck it and see to find your sweet spot,for me I don't mind a bit of foaming anyway as I'm not paranoid about it.good luck and keep us updated
 
Is there an ideal length for the beer line?

I am just about to hook up my Lindr (2 tap version) and it came with a long length of beer line. I asked the question of the suppliers and they said make it as short as possible. In view of what I've read above is that correct or what have you found to be an ideal starting length?[/QUOTe

I use 5 foot of 3/8 beer line , cornie keg set to 36psi , runs sweet and have drank around 600 pints at this setting with various beers and lagers not a problem
 
Is there an ideal length for the beer line?

I am just about to hook up my Lindr (2 tap version) and it came with a long length of beer line. I asked the question of the suppliers and they said make it as short as possible. In view of what I've read above is that correct or what have you found to be an ideal starting length?[/QUOTe

I use 5 foot of 3/8 beer line , cornie keg set to 36psi , runs sweet and have drank around 600 pints at this setting with various beers and lagers not a problem

Thanks for that, gives me an idea of where to start. My room temp were the kegs are kept is around 19-20c so I guess at the temp 36psi is about right using the charts so I'll start there.

My beer line 3/8 is about 7ft long at the moment so I'll try that first and see what happens. Going to leave it to carbonate for another week or so before I do the first test run!
 
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