Ace electric boilers?

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Looks like they might have shot themselves in the foot slightly by switching back to the 2500W heater, no mention of it being switchable like the new style boiler.
 
What do you think of this one?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Senior-30...717804?hash=item25bb08faac:g:HwUAAOSwKfVXIKwM

Difference is no pump provided, it has to be added seperately, but can be used as the FV as well so some space saving. Has Austrlian plugs as well. At first glance I thought it was good but quickly went off it due to the plugs and the fact you have to have the lid off to use the pump which is less efficient and will cause condensation.
 
Wow,you guys spend a few bob don't you, i bought a 30l Cygnet boiler from Aircon for £71 with thermostatic control and it works a treat.
Good on you though 👍
 
Wow,you guys spend a few bob don't you, i bought a 30l Cygnet boiler from Aircon for �£71 with thermostatic control and it works a treat.
Good on you though 👍

Not really, the ACE most of us have cost £100, but it's insulated and comes with false bottom and a bag, which accounts for the 30 quid difference.
 
. . . my insulated jacket is a foil backed yoga mat . . .

Hi!
There's a weekly auction at our local working men's club and I picked up a single duvet for £3.
I asked SWMBO to adapt it and sew a tubular jacket for my ACE.
As there are many sensitive, well-brought up members of this forum, I shall refrain from repeating her response :grin:
 
Here is my attempt at hooking up a pump for my Ace. The box is just an on/off switch and speed controller. So far i have not used the Inkbird PID for temp controller as i wanted to get the pump working first.
Used the pump twice and its clogged both times. First time was using the bag doing a wheat beer. Big mistake, after 10 minutes the pump started sucking in air. I later realised this was because the bag was clogged and not letteing anymore water through. I had to scoop it all out with a jug, pour into another bucket and strain through my old BIAB bag.
Second time i ditched the bag and got a blockage almost immediatly. Had to get some help to pour the whole lot into another bucket.
Last brew i did without the pump and ran through a few litres every now and again to get a more stable mash temp. I would really like to get the pump working especially when doing a step mash.
I also noticed there is quite a lot of build up on the bottom plate when step mashing so it needs to be cleaned before the boil to avoid cut outs.
Wish this had a thermowell for a thermometer. I keep smashing mine.

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Hi!
Interested to read your comments about the pump clogging, as I am hoping to go down that road in the future. Do you have the false bottom and bazooka fitted when mashing? What pump are you using?
The speed controller, I assume, is to set the speed of the pump. I've read somewhere that you do that by adjusting the rate of flow from the mash tun. Have you tried that?
Sorry for all the questions!
 
I've looked at a pump to recirculate when mashing .but I think it would be to much hassle. I like the thought of clear beer.
 
Hi!
Interested to read your comments about the pump clogging, as I am hoping to go down that road in the future. Do you have the false bottom and bazooka fitted when mashing? What pump are you using?
The speed controller, I assume, is to set the speed of the pump. I've read somewhere that you do that by adjusting the rate of flow from the mash tun. Have you tried that?
Sorry for all the questions!

Hi Col, ask away mate. I copied this of @donchiquon and i know he has got it working so its possible lol. I think he has a new pump though. If you go back to around page30 he has put up lots of photos.
I used the false bottom and bazooka. I did try adjusting the flow on the boiler and pump. It does make sense to do it like that i guess but i had a spare controller and wanted to make something. I nearly added an ammeter to it as well.
I would say the false bottom is better suited to keeping hops out rarther than grain hence the reason you get a bag.
This is the pump i bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Solar...F-w-Coupler-/281708749751?hash=item41972663b7
Paid £13.99 for mine shipped from China.
Some kind of shower head would be good to put on the top to disperse the water better and a clamp to hold it on. Mine fell off and went up the wall at one point.
 
Got my ace boiler for Christmas and just about to start my first batch in it, stepping up from 5 litre batches. Recipe from Brooklyn brew shop book, new year beer. Hopefully all runs smoothly.
 
Hi Col, ask away mate. I copied this of @donchiquon and i know he has got it working so its possible lol. I think he has a new pump though. If you go back to around page30 he has put up lots of photos.
I used the false bottom and bazooka. I did try adjusting the flow on the boiler and pump. It does make sense to do it like that i guess but i had a spare controller and wanted to make something. I nearly added an ammeter to it as well.
I would say the false bottom is better suited to keeping hops out rarther than grain hence the reason you get a bag.
This is the pump i bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Solar...F-w-Coupler-/281708749751?hash=item41972663b7
Paid �£13.99 for mine shipped from China.
Some kind of shower head would be good to put on the top to disperse the water better and a clamp to hold it on. Mine fell off and went up the wall at one point.

Hi BC

Sorry to hear about your clogging - that is pain. Here's my tuppence worth from about 20 recirculating brews, but I'm still learning!

1. I only use the false bottom, I leave the outlet uncovered (or use a silicone tube to extend the outlet into the centre of the tun. I tried using the bazooka - clogged, then a tea strainer - clogged, then a piece of stainless pipe that I cut lots of slots in - clogged. At that point I gave up with the idea of a secondary grain filter!

2. Start the pump very slowly for the first 20 mins. I use a ball valve to choke back the flow to a moderate dribble whilst the mash is settling. During this period the grain bed is not filtering very well so there will be lots of grain bits flowing through the pump. I often need to watch it carefully and open the ball valve a bit to free any blockages.

3. After 15-20 mins the bed starts filtering well and there is less debris hitting the pump so I gradually increase the flow. If the flow is too fast the grain bed will compress (further restricting the flow) and a vacuum will form underneath. the grain bed. This is visible when you see an air gap start to develop inside the silicone tube where it exits the mash tun.

4. How fine the grain crush is will determine (amongst other things) how freely the wort is able to recirculate and how easily the compression and vacuum will form. I set my rollers to about 1mm, the Electric Brewery folk recommend 1.14mm.

5. If you do get a compressed mash, stop the pump, swear a lot, give the mash a good stir, and start all over again. You might want to make a record of how far open you can have the ball valve before you see a vacuum forming (air showing in the sillicone tube) and then set it just a bit less to be safe.

6. If you are unlucky enough to end up with a blocked outlet (I only suffered from this when I was testing my "secondary grain filters") then before you think about bailing out, you might want to try putting a bucket under the outlet tap, opening the tap up, shoving a length of 3/16 beer line (or similar stiff tube) into the valve and trying to dislodge the blockage. I've managed to avoid any bail-outs so far using this trick. Just remember to get ready to close the valve pronto when you shift the blockage!!!

Although I've switched to a 50L induction pot for the boil (I found the ACE a bit small) I'm still loving the ACE as a mash tun and the way you can easily use it as a kind of RIMS system. Together with the false bottom, bag and bazooka all for £99 seems like a bargain to me!

Cheers!
 
Got my ace boiler for Christmas and just about to start my first batch in it, stepping up from 5 litre batches. Recipe from Brooklyn brew shop book, new year beer. Hopefully all runs smoothly.

Well that didn't go too well, quite a few hops in the recipe, I just threw them in! Bazooka filter clogged up after about 2litres, had to scoop the lot out! Will have to make a hop spider for next time.

Probably missed my og by quite a bit as well though my hydrometer needs replaced and during mash I stupidly left both elements running instead of switching to just the 900w when mash temp got to 66c so when they flicked on it went to 70c. Mash stayed at temp fine once I switched off the 1600w element.

Very quick getting to boil with both elements on, then switched to just the 1600w for the hour boil!

Very impressed with it and would recommend to anyone, my next brew will be better, now I know how to better control mash temp in it!
 
Well that didn't go too well, quite a few hops in the recipe, I just threw them in! Bazooka filter clogged up after about 2litres, had to scoop the lot out! Will have to make a hop spider for next time.

Probably missed my og by quite a bit as well though my hydrometer needs replaced and during mash I stupidly left both elements running instead of switching to just the 900w when mash temp got to 66c so when they flicked on it went to 70c. Mash stayed at temp fine once I switched off the 1600w element.

Very quick getting to boil with both elements on, then switched to just the 1600w for the hour boil!

Very impressed with it and would recommend to anyone, my next brew will be better, now I know how to better control mash temp in it!

I don't think that there's one of us that's bought an ACE who hasn't had issues with clagging up the bazooka when we started off.

It's a mission to read through all this but there must be half a dozen solutions ranging from just getting rid of it and letting the lot flow through to the FV, to modified bazookas, to hop spiders, and more. I've ended up with a spider, works for me but there's plenty of choices.

Most of us will be envious of your switchable heater element, lots of discussion here how to modify the old chopped up version to resurrect 2500W on demand, sadly I don't think that anyone has succeeded.
 
This may of be no help whatsoever (I'm an expert after two biab brews :whistle:) I have no filter,just open the tap and let all wort flow through a sieve sitting on top of fv or no chill cube.
This will only work with pellets probably as leaf hops will still clog a 15mm hole but I only use pellets anyway,IMO they are miles ahead of leaf.
 
Hi!
I've enjoyed reading everyone's posts; I'm getting ready to try my first AG brew with an ACE and a recirculating pump, I have a few questions:
1. Has anyone else tried Tony1951's idea of using a 1 metre braided hose as a filter? If so, did it solve the clogging problem as it did for him?
2. There seems to be a lot of members using the ACE to mash without the bag as they report greater efficiency. Should I ditch the bag? Will this mean more "stuff" getting through to the recirculation pump? I have the model with the false bottom.
3. I'm considering adding a Y strainer in front of the pump - any opinions?
 
I don't think that there's one of us that's bought an ACE who hasn't had issues with clagging up the bazooka when we started off.

It's a mission to read through all this but there must be half a dozen solutions ranging from just getting rid of it and letting the lot flow through to the FV, to modified bazookas, to hop spiders, and more. I've ended up with a spider, works for me but there's plenty of choices.

Most of us will be envious of your switchable heater element, lots of discussion here how to modify the old chopped up version to resurrect 2500W on demand, sadly I don't think that anyone has succeeded.

Cheers, glad it's not just me with the bazooka problem! Definitely gonna try a hop spider next time, seems a fairly easy inexpensive option.
 
Hi!
I've enjoyed reading everyone's posts; I'm getting ready to try my first AG brew with an ACE and a recirculating pump, I have a few questions:
1. Has anyone else tried Tony1951's idea of using a 1 metre braided hose as a filter? If so, did it solve the clogging problem as it did for him?
2. There seems to be a lot of members using the ACE to mash without the bag as they report greater efficiency. Should I ditch the bag? Will this mean more "stuff" getting through to the recirculation pump? I have the model with the false bottom.
3. I'm considering adding a Y strainer in front of the pump - any opinions?


Hi Bigcol!

1. Yes - I use this in my kettle and it works well for draining after the boil. I've not tried it during a mash recirc. Might be worth a try!

2. I've tried with and without the bag. More stuff undoubtedly gets through, but all of my pumps seem ok with this - they just cough and choke occasionally during the first 15 mins before the grain bed filters properly. They have never totally blocked during this stage.

3. I've not tried a Y strainer although a couple of HB stores advised against them due to constant blockages by material that most pumps would be happy with.

A compromise option for you might be to use the bag and put up with slightly lower efficiency, which would mean you could do without a filter on the output and the Y strainer - the bag would do the job of both.

This would leave you free to focus on managing the pump speed and all the other things you need to think about.
 
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