Chill haze problem?

[Pietrach]

Hi

I think I have a problem with the chill haze. Warm beer in the bottle looks clear, but when chilled it turns hazy. To my knowledge it is to do with the speed of chilling the wort, however, I get down from boiling to 25deg in about 20-30min which I would think should be ok. Any advice?

thank you

 

[Covrich]

I know it is an obvious question but you haven't mentioned it so I will ask but do you use Irish moss or whirfloc tablet ect 10-15 mins at the end of the boil?

 

[Pietrach]

Covrich: No I don't. I have never used any additives to achieve clarity as I wanted to see how much I can achieve without it, before I start using additives. Some say that with quick wort chilling, a careful handling and long conditioning this can be achieved. I want to see it I can achieve this.

Additives will be my next step, so please feel free to advise what you use and when.
Thanks

 

[Covrich]

On your next supply run pick up some irish moss or tablets and with the moss just add a pinch about 10 mins from the end of the boil.

I don't think it makes any difference to flavour or anything, it just helps the proteins to clump together which you often see clumps in the FV and drop out into the trub.

HOw clear you can get your beer without this I do not know.

 

[GHW]

Bugger. Reading this made me realise i forgot the Irish moss in my brew on Sunday. I have used it in previous AG brews.

Oh well it's only 5L and was experimental anyway. That's just one more variable its experimenting on!

 

[MyQul]

Bugger. Reading this made me realise i forgot the Irish moss in my brew on Sunday. I have used it in previous AG brews.

Oh well it's only 5L and was experimental anyway. That's just one more variable its experimenting on!

If it's only 5L you should be able to get the FV in the fridge to cold crash it if you move the fodder about a bit?

 

[Hops_and_Dreams]

I use Irish moss, 1tsp 15mins and still get chill haze. I also use an immersion chiller, so the chilling time is not the problem. Any ideas?

 

[Badseed1974]

Same here (protofloc) and I still get chill haze.

Any ideas why and what I can do about it are welcome :)

 

[stevej]

This is worth a look

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...loH4Cw&usg=AFQjCNEMlfXOXX-dTz5uoR_Lj5gdO98WNQ

 

[Cwrw666]

Always drink from a tankard then you can forget about your beer looking like soup. :lol:

 

[GHW]

If it's only 5L you should be able to get the FV in the fridge to cold crash it if you move the fodder about a bit?

Ridiculously it's in a 30L fv!

Be a miracle if I don't lose it all to trub. Will move fv the evening before I bottle and prop at an angle I think.

Not got any smaller. Going to invest in a couple of 15s in, in the hope I can get two of them into the same space I use for one 30L.

I don't seem to get chill haze anyway. No idea why. The opposite if anything, it gets cloudier when it warms up.

 

[MyQul]

@ Badseed, H&D, and Gareth. It could be that your not acheiving a proper hot break. If you don't get a good rolling boil this wont give you a good hot break which can cause hazyness. I made a London Pride recently clone which is quite murky considering I used profloc and usually don't bother chilling my beer (so no chill haze), so I'm guessing I didn't get a good hot break. I think the solution is to do a longer boil. I usually boil for 60mins so am going to do a 90 min boil next time

 

[Badseed1974]

Cheers MyQul :)

It's true that I don't get that vigorous a boil on my stove, it does boil but it's never looked in any danger of boiling over like you see in most YT vids.

So you reckon a longer boil would go some way to compensate for not getting a great hot break?

 

[Hops_and_Dreams]

Cheers MyQul :)

It's true that I don't get that vigorous a boil on my stove, it does boil but it's never looked in any danger of boiling over like you see in most YT vids.

So you reckon a longer boil would go some way to compensate for not getting a great hot break?

I think the vigorous boil part applies to me to, the gas stove does take an age to get 15ltr to boil and I have to half cover it to keep it going.

Could boil less water, but then hop utilisation comes more into play.

On balance, I'd rather have a better tasting beer than a better looking one.

 

[GHW]

Think it's in wheelers book that he talks about one of the London breweries claiming that the secret to their style was a low three hour boil. Not sure why they did that though but might be related!

 

[MyQul]

As I understand it doing a longer boil (90min instead of 60) can compensate for not having a vigourous rolling boil to try to achieve the hot break. I'm going to try on my next brew anyway, even though the boil I achieve on my hob is pretty vigourous, but obviously not vigourous enough judging by the murkyness of my last bitter.

 

[Badseed1974]

My next one is the witbier in the Greg Hughes book, think that's a 75 min boil?

Obviously not expecting a clear beer there anyway, but will deffo try a 90 min boil for my next pale ale :)

 

[MyQul]

My next one is the witbier in the Greg Hughes book, think that's a 75 min boil?

Obviously not expecting a clear beer there anyway, but will deffo try a 90 min boil for my next pale ale :)

I suspect achieving the hot break does other things that has a positive effect as well as ensuring a clear beer what they are I'm not entirely sure but I suspect doing a 90min boil might also help will flavour too. So I think a 90 min boil would be benificial to witbiers and dark beers too

 

[Badseed1974]

Am I right in thinking that an extra 30 mins boil would also bring the FG out higher? If so I guess I could top it up as I guess there'll be a fair bit more boil off as well.

 

[MyQul]

Am I right in thinking that an extra 30 mins boil would also bring the FG out higher? If so I guess I could top it up as I guess there'll be a fair bit more boil off as well.

true (about extra boil off) but you just have more water at the start of the boil or top off at the end