Control panel build

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Killick Greenie

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I've been overcome with a desire to have a go at sorting out the electrickery on my set up and I want to have a go a building a gucci control panel (at the moment I just pull 13amp plug tops out for OFF and in for ON, but hey, who wants to do that when you can have something dangerous and shiny to look at!)

Just ordered three PT100s and three of these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PID-Digital-T ... 230e3ad0ba

PIDs on fleabay from virtual village.(which I'm hoping is the virtual village referred to on this site :pray:

Can any electric magician point me in the direction of the SSR's I need to power two 30ltr Burco boilers. I think they are 3Kw boilers, I know the 13amp plug gets warm on the boiler when I'm brewing :eek: so I'm assuming I'll need some manly SSR's rated at the appropriate wiggly amperage?
:drink:
 
i got the sestos pid unit from a far east ebay seller mixtea? came with heatsink ssr and type K thermocouple for circa £25 i xchanged the thermocouple for a £3 pt100 from the same seller.

took a few weeks to arrive but ive been happy with it all.

the sestos pid comes in both ssr and relay versions so if you opt for that option make sure you get the right one.. the manual or instruction sheet is just good enough to get it all wired up but google for the "auber pid manual" for a much better how to use and set parameter document, not all the auber options are available tho like Farenheight temp dispaly, so check the sestos sheet for legal options..
 
Thanks guy's

I'll get on the case when the next two days of freedom :thumb: come around
:drink:
 
Ridley said:
I am confused about the difference between then pids listed here

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/VirtualVillage ... =241438042

What is the difference and which do I want to control the temp of say a HLT?

Ridley

Pid contr0llers are overkil toys for brewers :) i have one so can say that :), but if you making a control box its very little extra effort to use a pid than any other type of controller so you might as well..

an stc1000 or atc800+ could be used almost as effectivly, and a lot more easily.. but if a pid is the way you want to go look for one that will switch an ssr and not a relay.
 
Thanks for the reply

So am I correct in thinking that a PID will monitor the temperature much more frequently than the ST1000 and can switch a SSR, whearas the ST1000 only monitor every minute or so and would then turn the heater of and so there is potential for a large under and overshoot?

So which of the three on the link do people use?

Ridley
 
Ridley said:
Thanks for the reply

So am I correct in thinking that a PID will monitor the temperature much more frequently than the ST1000 and can switch a SSR, whearas the ST1000 only monitor every minute or so and would then turn the heater of and so there is potential for a large under and overshoot?

So which of the three on the link do people use?

Ridley

yes the overshhot potential is there but with our volumes of water its a 1-2 min cool down period if that with a good stir, IF it happens.. i used an atc800+ before getting a pid and cant say that the pid is any major improvement. and is a bit more of a faf to learn and set up..

However in answer, of the three the second looks like it can opperate either a relay or an ssr tho it uses more flowery/tech speak

Time proportionate output can be relay contact or voltage pulse output

voltage pulse output would afaik control an ssr.

tho to be 100% confident look at some ebqy bundles like
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100-240VAC-Di ... 6304wt_840

with a replacement pt100, thermowell, and box to put it in you almost set to go
 
Thanks for reply, I might give the ST1000 a try then that just arrived today.

Only problem I can see is that the ST1000 can only drive 10A and if you had more than one kettle element then I do not think it would be able to drive it after all a 1700w Tesco element draws over 7A. So is this one of the reasons for the PIDS?

Ridley
 

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