cool box for mash tun

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If that's the Thermos coolbox, I use one 'as is' (drilled for a tap of course). Wrapped in a doubled-up blanket, there's negligible heat loss over 60 to 90 minutes.
Cheers,
Chris
 
I've tested it tonight to check and I'm really impressed.
45°c to start and with me lifting the lid every hour it only lost 3° over 3 hrs.
So looks like I'll do the same. Just sussing out the tap.
 
sounds great.. probably just needs the lid void filling to make it complete.. some have used builders expanding foam, i split the lid and sat squares of bubble wrap inside the square cells created by the lid moulding, Others have bought gardeners vermiculite or perlite and used that to fill the void ..

a good tip is to save the cardboard box the coldbox arrived in (if applicable) and once the mash is set upturn the box and drop it over the top of the coldbox ;)

happy mashing..
 
cool box arrived today, i was suprised to see 4 clips holding it together, so i pulled it apart to see how well its made,(or not)
i did expect it to be a little better than this, or at least sealed in some way.its currently sat in the kitchen and full of 45'c water for an hour.see how much heat loss i get.
[URL="http://s626.photobucket.com/user/Simbo09/media/20161013_160815_zpsb8ya11eh.jpg.html"] [/URL]

Can you post a link to where you got this cool box from?

Thanks

Jas
 
sounds great.. probably just needs the lid void filling to make it complete.. some have used builders expanding foam, i split the lid and sat squares of bubble wrap inside the square cells created by the lid moulding, Others have bought gardeners vermiculite or perlite and used that to fill the void ..

a good tip is to save the cardboard box the coldbox arrived in (if applicable) and once the mash is set upturn the box and drop it over the top of the coldbox ;)

happy mashing..

I've been thinking about expanding foam.I don't want to split the lid.
Tbf if it only losses 1° in 60mins I might leave it as is.
 
update,
ive really struggled getting my tap to seal,i was useing thin nylon washers with no success, i even wrapped them in ptfe, still no joy,
i allso think the inner wall was distorting when i tightened up the nut,
so i seperated the the coolbox and inserted a piece of stiff board by it to support the inner skin, this gave it something to push against and kept it flat when tightening up,now this may or may not have been one my wifes new coasters,but it certainly looked like one, perfect fit :D,
[URL=http://s626.photobucket.com/user/Simbo09/media/20161015_185445_zps6xp5ohnz.jpg.html] [/URL]

i allso managed to get a decent rubber seal from B&Q, so a combination of both got it sorted,
 
Andy - is that a flexible tap connector to link manifold to MT ball valve? They have a rubber lining, and are at (or beyond) the top end of their temperature performance range in a MT. I'd be inclined to use hosetails linked by high temp flexible food grade tubing, secured with s/s hoseclips.

When you drill the holes, I expect you'll use 1 or 2mm bits? Put them as far into the drill chuck as they'll go. Fixed long and spindly, they'll keep breaking. I bought a 10 pack of 1mm bits for a similar job (sparge arm), and still have 9 of them left :). Use a punch and lube, too - 3 in 1 is cheaper than WD40.

Cheers,
Chris
 
it does have a rubber insert yes, but as its used for both cold and hot tap in a normal sink etc i assumed it would be ok?
is that not the case?
 
I think for hot water systems they're good to 60 or 65°, so borderline for a MT. Check the packaging or supplier's website for the spec.

When I was building my AG kit, I became depressingly familiar with plumbing fittings, equipment and suppliers. Before that, I thought Screwfix was a national chain of marriage guidance councillors :whistle:
Cheers,
Chris
 
Thats a 2mm walled tube, a bit thinner than the stuff ive used. a good thick wall lets it bend without kinking and it wont collapse on itself with negative pressure..

once upon a time a member in here sold suitable 1/2" silicone tube..

there is silicone and silicone. i wouldnt use the stuff sold for automotive use for example..

some brewshops sell the stuff that is food and heat safe for our use
http://www.themaltmiller.co.uk/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=352

im no expert but think that if looking outside homebrew suppliers if you source the platinum cured tube as used for milk transport in dairy use you wont go wrong.
 
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