How long do you condition for?

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I try to keep a stockpile of (A LOT) bottles maintained, a 2 month stockpile. Means I need to put a 20l brew on every 4 weeks
So thats a 2week in the fv, 2 weeks in the warm to carb and 4 weeks to condition. Then it's game on!!!!!
However I do mixand match , so I could be drinking something 4 months old and having a taster after 2 weeks... It's great to see how the beer changes

Then every 3 months I put on a double brew just to make sure things stay topped up....
Then there's HB wine
Shop bought beer
Shop bought wine
Going out......
Yes I drink too much
 
as loads have said Kris,
depends on the beer etc...but knowing you....is there ever going to stocks lasting more than a month old???
but I condition like a lager about 4-5c as long as I can..........not long tbh.
text you later..
bri
 
2 weeks in the FV.
1 week cold crashing.
1 week carbonating in the corny.
Depending on stocks & if I am fancying my latest brew I will have my first from there out.
 
Don't we all draw a pint straight out of the fv before bottling?
I pour a 1/4 pint to clear the valve and a full pint in a long cider glass to do my final gravity measure and then sup that pint.
It's interesting to see what it tastes like ''raw' and uncarb'd
 
Hi there,

I condition ales for about 3x weeks, then start drinking, but because I keep learning and experimenting and want to know how taste develops at the beginings, I do crack one open every week... I have few that have been conditioning over 5 months, and I tried one recently, and it was the best homebrew I ever tasted, so definately it does get better over time like wine, because homebrewers do not filter their beer in most cases, and hence the aging continues after racking, again, same like wine. I did a serious mistake I want to warn you about. I attempted a lager recently, and after primary, I placed it straight into my fridge, and 3x weeks later it tasted horrible, when while racking it was great and no off flavors. It turned out that because the cold fridged slowed down the development of carbonation, the oxygen in the bottle headspace had enought time to oxidise my beer, which taste sour and stale now. I shoud have left it for 2 weeks in warmer temp before laggering...
Good tips mate as I have a pilsner currently in primary so will be making sure I don't do the same after bottling!
 
All mine gets thrown into the space under the stairs. The temperature is what it is. High summer or the depths of winter, it all comes out the same in the end. I've been at it long enough (35 years) to ignore all these people who say you've got to do this and you must do that. It's mostly cobblers and tends to come from over-zealous newbies who think they know the lot cos they've spent an hour or two on the 'net.
Aye I carbonate in the ferm fridge then they all go into the garage. Never had a bad brew yet out of the 8 AG ones I've done :)
 
Don't we all draw a pint straight out of the fv before bottling?
I pour a 1/4 pint to clear the valve and a full pint in a long cider glass to do my final gravity measure and then sup that pint.
It's interesting to see what it tastes like ''raw' and uncarb'd
I usually whack it in the fridge to get it to drinking temp haha! Nice to see how the flavours/dry hop come through pre carb
 
I bottled a Belgian / English hybrid on Saturday just gone... 4 days. 6% abv, clear as a bell and utterly amazing. I knows cos I was in amongst it last night. I'll have necked the lot while most of you are still loitering around for yours to 'mature', like an O.A.P. who's missed the last bus... Get it down yer and stop messing about!
 
Whoa mate, I'll have you know I ate the grains before I brewed last time and poured the yeast in my mouth. I drank the beer whilst it was fermenting.

Nah haha!

But I am going to pop a beer or 6 I bottled exactly 5 days ago tonight as the suns out :)
 
A good Lager needs some month - So Lager is original brewed in the winter months (original in Bavaria), very cold fermented and very cold conditioned (in wine cellars and caves) brewed for oktoberfest (in october of the following year), so the name "Lagerbier" is german for "stored beer". Sour beers like Berliner Weisse or Gose needs minimum one year(!) for conditioning. Altbiers(German Ales), pale(Kölsch or Altdeutsches Helles), amber (Düsseldorf style Altbier) or dark (Northern german style Altbier) needs simply 3 to 6 weeks. German wheat beers needs 2 to 4 weeks

I think to get the taste of "bought british beer" it needs 3-5 months conditioning for the ideal taste. I drunk an Altbier which I conditioned 3 month and it tastes like some british bought ales, though as a german beer.

My epxerience, you get a sweet, round and malty flavour from long time conditioning, rather than lots of special malts. Warm conditioning increase esters and cold conditioning decrease esters, but needs more time.
 
I wonder how they get boddingtons to taste so dreadful?
Must be the...3+1+0 method...
3 days fermentation at 30
1 day force carb
0 days condition
 
As long as it takes to force carb it which is about a week. Any earlier and the yeast is a little harsh on the back of the mouth.
For hoppy to insanely hoppy beers I dry hop straight after primary (unless brewing a cloudy IPA), leave for 4-7 days (depending on dry hop level), cold crash to -0.5C, fine with Gelotin, leave for a day, raise temp to 2C then keg, set pressure to 10psi and store at 5C for a week. Consume within 3-4 weeks for best hoppiness/happiness
 
When I visited Hawkshead Brewery I was surprised to find that they ferment for 7 days, condition for 7 days and then send it to the pubs! I wish I could match their speed.
 
All mine gets thrown into the space under the stairs. The temperature is what it is. High summer or the depths of winter, it all comes out the same in the end. I've been at it long enough (35 years) to ignore all these people who say you've got to do this and you must do that. It's mostly cobblers and tends to come from over-zealous newbies who think they know the lot cos they've spent an hour or two on the 'net.
I agree Gunge these technophobes who cry down people who do not sanitise everything several times and say that you can not store beer unless it is at a certain temp, sparge and mash - mash out temps to .1 yes some of the technology is a good thing but over use and thinking they know it all because that is what they have read or seen on the internet and unfortunately some of these have been doing it for a few years with the new technology really do go OTT. There is no replacement for experience I've been for over 35 years and have never had a bad/infected brew and I do not throw away my fermentors if they are stained (as it may/will harbour infections) so I think I know what I am doing and still ask questions on this forum but read between the lines of some of the answers. There is definitely a place for innovation and advancement but a lot of it is for the brewing manufacturers of equipment to make more money on their next innovation unfortunately some brewers with more money than sense swallow the pill.
There off the high horse now and to quote Forrest Gump "that's all I have to say about that"
 
Lol! But all this waiting around is no good, and every beer reaches a turning point where it goes downhill. Best get it down the neck than run the risk of that and ending up with stockpiles of swill.
That shouldn't be the case.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
 
Commercial beer production is fast, as fast as you can get it without causing problems. Typical cask ale (running ale because it is run out of the brewery) is a 72 hour ferment, cold crash close to FG (drop yeast), rack to conditioning tank the next day (drop yeast) then package the following day.You either need a VERY well behaved yeast or you fine your beer. We hate it, but the beer can be in the hands of the publican on day 6 or 7 from mashing in. The cask conditioning process and cellar has to deal with your sins! You can stick advice on the cask, but 99% of the time they ignore it anyway, you do it so you can say "did you read the label?".

For beers with a dry hop you get them in towards the end of fermentation, try and drag out the cold crash and then same rack to conditioning tank and package the following day. Most beers are lucky to see 3 days on the dry hop, usually 2, biggest challenge is dry hopping warm so they break up, the extract is much better, but still halting fermentation to allow the natural cask conditioning. 16C is popular with some, but we usually find a way to balance it. If you get it wrong you are priming casks on rack which everybody thoroughly hates.

For 'modern' craft keg and the like where the dry hop is the star we allow two weeks. 72 hour ferment. Towards the end dump some yeast, then dry hop, suspend hops with co2 daily until stable gravity is observed (typically 3-5 days) cold crash, transfer to conditioning tank at which point you batch prime (destined for cask, some keg products, this would be day 10) or force carbonate (destined for can, most keg products usually carb is on point day 12).

Improvements in this would be dry hopping once off the yeast as it runs off with a lot of your lovely hop oils and many crash to 14-16C to dump most of the yeast before dry hopping as a middle ground. Drawbacks include having to introduce the hops at the point where beer is most susceptible to oxygen pickup and a poorer extract at cooler temperatures at a later point where they can't have the luxury of extra time. This is why hop rockets exist to blow them in under inert gas. This is why hop torpedoes exist to circulate beer and speed this up. This is why double dry hop is a thing (these people have the luxury of tanks to spare). Rough filtration helps as well, but all these gadgets are to speed up the process, inline co2 systems, membrane co2 systems, all to speed it up.

That said if time is not money primary fermentation benefits from a 5-10 day process. You certainly do not need a month in a bucket, but you don't need to rush the beer out of fermenter in 72 hours. Dry hopping is worth doing off of the yeast if you can prevent oxygen ingress as yeast can grab three times the hop oil of beer so for every 2-3L of yeast you toss at the end you've just tossed 30-45% of your dry hop in a 20L batch. Commercially you need extra tanks and/or equipment for this and it is cheaper to just build it into your recipe, but you can at least give beers 3 days on a dry hop.

After that conditioning is personal preference. Depending on style I would drink immediately, or condition. Oxygen pickup has an awful lot to do with what happens during the conditioning process, not all of it is desirable. Hop aroma suffers the most, hop character next, bitterness drops off over time, malt flavours come up in the mix as a result, softer, sweeter, rounder. Not really what you want in a juice bomb, what you want in a bigger dark beer.

Perversely in low tech environments with poor control or understanding of oxygen pickup the beer is best rushed through as it stands the chance of being packaged before damage is done and while something fermentable remains and yeast are around to consume it.

Why rush the beer out? You want your plant working day and night not sat idle. If you can find a way to brew an extra time per week while keeping the beer acceptable you are making a lot more money. You don't want to store beer, you need a proper conditioning room, stock control, extra casks etc, you want the casks out there making you money, back just in time to be cleaned, filled and sent out again.

I've been home brewing for a party and have had only a limited amount of time to get things ready. I've brewed 6 beers. Every one has been in keg the following week from mashing in. Sunday to sunday. Pitch enough yeast (active starter) to get me down in the teens at hour 48, rouse, bring the heat up 2C, beer is pretty much done by hour 72, dry hop/add rubbish, rouse, keep at 23C and rouse daily for 3 days for extraction and diacetyl rest, chill the evening of the 6th day, keg on the evening of the 7th.

Brewed two dark beers first, one at 6.7%, another at 5.2%, these will have 3 weeks in keg before serving. Wheat (6%) and saison (6.7%) will have 2 weeks in keg and session IPA (4.9%) and my brut IPA (6.6%) will have only one week in keg. The bigger stout would benefit from longer tbh, figs, cranberries, but the weaker (strawberries) will be better as a younger beer. The wheat is fine after just a couple of weeks, the saison will be fresh and the IPA's will be super fresh, but this is proablly the best way I could have produced 6 beers in 5 weeks.
 
Do people condition for long periods in a secondary FV or do you prime and leave to condition? Does it make much difference which method you choose?
 

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