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Stapsin

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Feb 28, 2014
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Just constructed my kegerator today, very happy with the outcome! Just need to get my hands on one more tap (maybe more in the future) and its fully completed! Couple of photos below, thoughts?

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Best to get your gas cylinder outside......more room for kegs

K
 
What kind of UPC tube have you used between the tap and keg .? The tube I have is very rigid and sometimes it makes the disconnect spring off the corny post
 
stevela said:
Where have you ordered the drip tray from? I'm after a couple myself.

Seem to be pretty difficult to get hold of in the UK for a reasonable price but I have a mate in the US who is buying for me and then gonna post across. Haven't seen a decent one here for less than 25/30 quid.
 
Sean P said:
What kind of UPC tube have you used between the tap and keg .? The tube I have is very rigid and sometimes it makes the disconnect spring off the corny post

I am using 3/8th beer line which I ordered from hop and grape which works really well. Very good website especially for grain and corny bits and pieces so would definitely recommend. Really your disconnect should not be springing off the corny even if your line is rigid, are you sure its connected properly?
 
Sean P said:
What kind of UPC tube have you used between the tap and keg .? The tube I have is very rigid and sometimes it makes the disconnect spring off the corny post
As Stapsin says, your disconnects should not be springing off the posts, they should lock onto the posts. Make sure the collar is fully pushed down to make the lock. If it doesn't push down it's not connected properly. If the ball bearings are sticky take the disconnect apart & give it a good clean :thumb:
 
joe1002 said:
Sean P said:
What kind of UPC tube have you used between the tap and keg .? The tube I have is very rigid and sometimes it makes the disconnect spring off the corny post
As Stapsin says, your disconnects should not be springing off the posts, they should lock onto the posts. Make sure the collar is fully pushed down to make the lock. If it doesn't push down it's not connected properly. If the ball bearings are sticky take the disconnect apart & give it a good clean :thumb:

Fully agree!
 
What kind of pressure is your beer on? I found with 3/8 beer line and 10psi and a shortish run (like you have) I got LOADS of foam from my tap for at least the first pint - if not more. I tried quite a few things and eventually settled on taps with small levers on them to restrict flow.
Wish I had a friend in the states to send me a nice drip tray - I've a mark on my shed floor where the beer / cider drips.....! A metal one with strong magnets would be perfect - any one seen one in the UK??!

edit: Hadn't looked for a while - found this: http://www.drinkstuff.com/products/...e=Stainless+Steel+Long+Drip+Tray#.UxUMxfl_t8E
 
No foaming problems here. The line is about 2.5 meters long its just coiled so looks shorter. If anything I could use a bit more foam. Beer serving pressure at 10ish psi and carbed at around 20 psi.

That drip trap looks good but you can't really attach it to the fridge door no?
 
I've seen people using strong, slimline neodynium magnets to attach the drip tray to the door if its magnetic. Might not work as well if the door is curved (as in a fridge door). I've got a chest freezer (flat sided) which is magnetic so might work.

Here are the discs... http://www.first4magnets.com/circul...ds&gclid=CKm7zvPb-bwCFSETwwodEqUAlg#ps_1-1118

Stainless isn't quite as magnetic as steel though i think.....

about the foam - when you say carbed at 20psi and served at 10psi - do you turn down the pressure when serving? I wish I didnt have such crazy foam problems...... :cry:
 
My fridge is quite flat so theoretically that would work but as I say supposed to be getting a drip tray from the states.

Yeah so I set my beer at around 20-25 psi and leave it for 3-4 days. Then vent down to 10 or below and serve. What are you carbing your beer at? Could you have over carbed it?
 
I'd take a proper drip tray from the states over one magetized to the freezer any day...! :thumb:

I did force carb my first few brews and perhaps overcarbed. I'll have to try again with one thats definitely over carbed. I seem to remember (it was during the summer i was setting it up) that I tried quite a few things though...... :wha:

I;ve got 2 adjustable taps and a normal one like yours - need to be able to have all 3 at once...! I'll stop high-jacking the thread now....
 
the old land lord in me....

if the fridge is flat could you not super-glue the cage of the drip tray, you might need to add 1 or 2 plastic strips to the front 1st to level off, then you can still remove the 'tray'

This must be a lot cheaper and easier than importing on. A lot of pubs still have old pumps and trays in their cellars etc.
Ebay start at about £4 a tray!
 
grandelf said:
the old land lord in me....

if the fridge is flat could you not super-glue the cage of the drip tray, you might need to add 1 or 2 plastic strips to the front 1st to level off, then you can still remove the 'tray'

This must be a lot cheaper and easier than importing on. A lot of pubs still have old pumps and trays in their cellars etc.
Ebay start at about £4 a tray!
I bolted some of those to my old kegerator, you can just about see it in the below picture. I stuck some wood on the fridge door to give it some strength.

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And again on the extreme left of this picture

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Hi Stapsin The disconnects are the pin type and as I close the fridge door the tube is so rigid tends to rotate the disco and it disengages from the pins. I was hoping a more flexible tube may ease the pressure on the disco
 
Sean P said:
Hi Stapsin The disconnects are the pin type and as I close the fridge door the tube is so rigid tends to rotate the disco and it disengages from the pins. I was hoping a more flexible tube may ease the pressure on the disco
ah right. Could you not rotate the disconnect 180 degrees the connect it. That way when the door closes the pressure on the line should tighten the disconnect?

Failing that, 3/16" line is a lot more flexible but you will have to readjust your pressures etc.
 
Your right, rotating the disconnect and the position of the line does help but then causes a problem when you open the fridge door instead. I might follow your suggestion of the 3/16 line, pressure shouldn't be a problem as there is a flow control on the side of the tap. thanks
 

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