Mango Chutney Barrel Boiler Conversion Help

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alanywiseman.

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So I am making the steps (slowly) to AG with a wee stop off at extract. I have decided to build a boiler out of a mango chutney barrel I have. It is just over 30L so should be fine for 19L brews. I am **** at DIY so may be pestering everyone while I make it but i can feel the dark side calling.

I understand what I need to do with the kettle elements. That bit is straight forward but I am stuck with trying to get the bits for the tap and filter. I was going to go with 3 piece ball valve but i am unsure on the size. People seem to use 15mm (3/4" i think) but Vossy used 1/2" in his how to. Have i mixed things up?

Then to attach the ball valve to the barrel you use a brass nipple, screw it in to the ball valve the put it through the hole in the barrel and lock it on the other side with a nut? (with washers in place to make it water tight) or would I be better off going with one of these due to my DIY imcompotance?!

The last thing is the hop filter. I think at this stage I am going to go with a Tee piece and use some stainless steel braided tubing. Seems like the idiot proof way to me.

Any thought/advice or slaging at my imcompotence greatly recieved :thumb:
 
The idiots way to go ( and not being disrespectful at all ) is to drill your hole, purchase and fit one of Vosy's tank connectors, pricey but the bee's knees.
Screw on a half inch thread bazooka screen for hop filter, and a 3 piece tap on the outside. Job done.
 
Hi AW, just as PD said except i think you will need a female socket to screw onto the bulhead fitting inside the pot/barrel & then screw the bazooka screen into the socket. Hope this helps :cheers: ken.
 
yep one half inch female brass socket.......forgot that...
 
if you have a vice a drill and £5 for a 15mm drill bit of ebay?

drill out a standard 15mm compresson tank connector fitting.

drill the hole in the barrel for the fitting,

pop the fitting in, poke 15mm copper pipe thru and dry fit an elbow, and size the dip tube u need to meet the T at the bottom.

remove and solder if your soldering, or fit the compression fittings if using compression..

fit the tank connector tube and dip tube terminated with a T for the braid filter,

attach a copmression fitting valve to the pipe sticking out the outside of the tank connector..

and fit any pipe hose tails you want to the valve outlet...

attach your braid to short lengths of copper and dry fit into the T when needed as a hop filter


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Thanks for the suggestion Fil. I will keep it in mind but I think I will go with a bazooka screen and one of Vossys parts though I may get in touch when I decide to upgrade :thumb:
 
So I am looking for something like THIS (part 14349) or would I be better off with the brass version HERE (part 6564)?

Thanks for putting up with the stupid questions :thumb:
 
I almost have all the parts to put it together. The last part I am unsure on is the power source. I want to go with the euro hot condition sockets from Maplin. This means I will need to get the cable and I can harvest the plugs from the kettles.

I had a look in maplin the other day and they have 3 differnt types of mains cable. The one I need is the 3-Core 13A Mains Cable? Not one with a lower amp rating?

Edit: Is it ok to use a mix of brass and stainless steel fittings?
 
if u use tesco kettles a kettle lead just plugs in the back... save the pennies for grain.. you can use anything to shroud the element back, i used small food boxes..
 
I feel like it would be safer to use the hot condition rather than the kettle leads, plus I would like the leads to be 3/4m long so I don't need to buy extension cables.
 
Sounds like the plan is comming together. :D
Fils suggestion of drilling out a tank connector has got to be worth consideration. ;) Thats the way that I did it on my plastic build, but you are paying the piper, so its your tune. :lol:

S

Talking of hop filters, "top tip" make sure you put them in the fitting before starting to brew. At the weekend, I ended with a half full boiler on a 100 litre brew and then "found" the stainer in the oxy being cleaned :oops: :evil:
Tactic now is to store it where it wil be used. ;) :lol:
 
Might have been useful. I had hot hot wort in "everything :shock: ", could have used "A" :lol: asbestos glove to screw filter in though the last few litres. :evil:

S
 
:lol: We all do it & make a mental note never to do it again,then 2 brews later it's all forgotten again :D anyway S you must havee: been talking to Moley :tongue: getting all grammatically correct on me? :lol: ttfnigfaba(ta ta for now,i'm going for a beer again) i know you struggle with the abbs. :cheers: ferm.
 
Vossy1 said:
Edit: Is it ok to use a mix of brass and stainless steel fittings?
Yup.
13A 3 core is the minimum I'd be using, I'm sure you'll have no problems with it, I think I used 16A for mine, over rated but I was more 'comfy' with it.

Cheers Vossy1 :thumb:

Springer said:
Sounds like the plan is comming together. :D
Fils suggestion of drilling out a tank connector has got to be worth consideration. ;) Thats the way that I did it on my plastic build, but you are paying the piper, so its your tune. :lol:

S

Talking of hop filters, "top tip" make sure you put them in the fitting before starting to brew. At the weekend, I ended with a half full boiler on a 100 litre brew and then "found" the stainer in the oxy being cleaned :oops: :evil:
Tactic now is to store it where it wil be used. ;) :lol:

Fils suggestion was great but my skills are not at the moment. I have decided to just go for the easy option as there is less chance of me messing it up.

Now that you have said I need to attch the hop filter when brewing i am doomed to forget it the first time I am sure :pray: that I wont
 

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