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I've brewed every batch on my kitchen stove, that's 180 batches since 1999. I have a 4-gallon (15-liter) kettle, and I also use a smaller ~8-liter kettle and other kitchen pots on the side when necessary for bigger batches. I've brewed full 22-liter batches a few times boiled 4 kettles and...

Hey there, cousin. Welcome. Brew whatever seems enjoyable to you. If you want to take it to the next level, maybe take a peek at this little thing, which provides pointers for extract and partial-mash brewing:

From BJCP:

This is the first time I ever heard him/you acknowledge the recent genetic analyses of yeast, causing separation out of S-04 from other strains. But I actually agree that WLP007 will give a similar beer to S-04. Not sure about 1098 though... probably still similar, but not quite the same...

I take out the old bines when they die, by about October.

I don't find temperature to have any effect on my efficiency. I firmly believe that you are seeing random data scatter, or the cause is something else.

A bone-dry mead will finish at 0.992 specific gravity pretty consistently, rarely any lower than that. You might only see this with a hydromel (low gravity mead) or when using a champagne style yeast that is capable of fermenting maximum sugars compared to any other mead yeast. For mead, you...

I only try fads that improve the final beer quality. This fad shouldn't.

You can ferment with any lager yeast at 16 or 17 C or even a little higher. In my experience, lager yeasts don't turn out as fruity or estery as people who haven't tried it will claim. And you'll get a result faster warm than if you fermented at cold temperatures. Also, S-04 is an ale yeast...

Wyeast 2565 takes about 6 weeks to clear. That's not fast! Try any other yeast instead. Kentucky Common is a great style. To me it tastes sort of like an English style bitter. It's one of the only styles from the USA where there's not a buttload of hops so it tastes like a "normal beer".

Yes, that is very normal. When fermented in the mid 60s F (that's about 18 C for you UK gents), my experience is that the S-33 / London / Windsor / M10 / M15 / Munton's family of yeasts (all very closely related) consistently completes fermentation within 36-40 hours max. If you fermented any...

This is where evaporation comes into play. That wee bit of steaming as the sample droplets cool can skew the readings higher than reality.

I use my refractometer all the time. They are easy to use, but also easy to screw up if you don't know what you are doing. You need to be aware of a few things: You need to keep it zeroed or account for it reading a little off zero using plain water. Alcohol skews the readings but in a very...

Contamination.

There are many kinds of chlorine ions: hypochlorite (bleach), chloramine (stabilized version), and chloride (table salt). These are all chemically totally different, and Campden removes only the first two but not the chloride. If I were you, I would split your batch 2 or maybe even 3 ways...

What are your mash temperature(s) and time(s)? You're not using a step-mash, are you?

Hmm... 68C doesn't seem too hot. Not sure what is going on. Regarding use of your refractometer, my standard guidance: https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/forum/index.php?topic=28544.msg404366#msg404366

Are you by chance measuring specific gravity using a refractometer, and not a hydrometer? If yes, we can help you with that later. Misuse of a refractometer is an extremely common problem. If not, you might need to check calibration of your mash thermometer in both ice water and boiling water...

I would use one pack of lager yeast at whatever temperature you can get it. Lagers turn out great even at 18C. Save the odd 6g yeast for a small ale later.

Rabbit holes... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/interesting-genome-sequencing-of-some-yeasts.670056/page-3#post-10333850 YEAST MASTER Perma-Living by Yours Truly