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Sadly not - brewing with alien yeast would give you good bragging rights :) Seems like its atoms bashing into each other to create complex molecules like methanol. Booze without yeast - hopefully the yeast union won't stage a walkout from my FV with tiny placards...

http://news.discovery.com/space/cosmic-booze-created-in-quantum-brewery-130701.htm Unfortunately my brewfridge doesn't quite get down to -210°C, so I'd struggle to replicate this :)

:lol: Include some Pilsner malt and EKG hops. Drop the ABV. Call it a "Dark English American Mild Pale Indian Lager Ale". Problem solved, right? :) Wait, sorry, "Dark English American Mild Pale Indian Larger Ale". No, wait, better add 20% torrified wheat as well, just to keep everyone happy. :)

It's the golden rule :) I'm not sure that pressure barrels really work for big, hoppy, highly carbonated beers - IMO bottling is better. But I guess you've come to the same conclusion?! :)

A Cascadian Dark has become one of my favourites too :thumb: Personally, as it's a hoppy style, I'd go with more late hop additions. If you've got 100g pack of Cascade, you might as well use them all up at the dry hopping stage. Again, also personal opinion, but that 30 minute addition won't...

Sounds like a few ml diluted in 19l? Doubt that'll harm you. See how it tastes when you take your first gravity sample. Definitely don't chuck it!

Yep, not a problem :thumb: Although... maybe I need a second fermenting fridge... :hmm: :)

Thanks both! Nice to narrow down all that choice :) Might have a go at the Flowers IPA too - I remember that from my youth in the West Country.

You can't :) (Not without complex analysis, as far as I know) But if you're adding simple sugars, there's a reasonable chance. Sometimes the only way to know if a brew is going to work the way you want is to try it and see, and learn the lessons for next time :)

That's where the attenuation of the yeast comes into play :) You'd need 84% attenuation to get the same ABV, instead of your 75% (1.072 -> 1.018). So more of the sugar is converted into alcohol. In reality I suspect you'd get it down to about 1.016 without extra help, giving you about 6.5% ABV.

Yep, you'd need to liquor back so that the OG is around 1.065 rather than 1.072. Using "gravity points", the gravity / volume equation must balance, so (9* 72) = (x * 65) where x is your new volume; x = 9.97 - so adding a litre of water should do it?

This was an interesting read. I've never cleaned an FV with anything other than warm water and a soft sponge. I sanitise thoroughly with StarSan, but I've never felt the need to use a cleaning product beforehand. Does anyone else do this?

Unless I've not understood, you need to factor in attenuation of the yeast? 1.072 down to 1.018 is 75% attenuation - perfectly reasonable, whereas 1.072 down to 1.010 is 86% attenuation. If you want 7.3% ABV from a FG of 1.010, I think you're shooting for an OG of 1.065, but you'd still need to...

The beer might clear with more time in a cool place - but you could just drink it :) This could be FUD, but I've heard that some spores can survive a boil, so a quick soak in diluted thin bleach might be in order for the boiler. (It'll probably be OK, though)

I bought this a while back but haven't made anything from it yet. Anyone got a list of favourites they've brewed?

Good find! I like that the equivalent White Labs / Wyeast strains are listed for some of them.

Caution - I've only walked past this place and never actually been in, and it's not a traditional pub, but it looked interesting from the outside :) Tap East brewpub

All sanitisers (pretty much all home and industrial chemicals, really) should be mixed according to the guidelines, so this isn't an issue specific to StarSan :)

Can't help feeling a little bit jealous when someone's brewing and I'm at work :) Good luck with the brewday :thumb:

Nice foot stools. I'll suggest this to SWMBO next time we're shopping for living room furniture...