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It's the brewer who brews the beer, the SVB is only as good as the person using it.
Best all-in-one brewing system
- Thread starter Leard
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I shooed it out last time I was in and it has crapped on my laptop keyboard in revenge.
It matters not what system you buy they all have problems no matter how much you spend. It is up to the user to find out how to get the best from the system. So as an answer to the question by a good well made system and learn how to use it because the notion that these things are capable of faithfully following a single temperature infusion let alone a step mash is fantasay . Another word of warning! You say you were a BIAB brewer do not attempt to mash your grains with the same fine crush you did with BIAB as it will be a disaster.
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It must be said though that even with over and under shoots these systems a fairly new brewer can still make better beer than you can buy .
Edit
It must be said though that even with over and under shoots these systems a fairly new brewer can still make better beer than you can buy .
Agentgonzo
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Really? Mine does it rather well.
Bz gen 3 here 3 years old now, i have all it's traits nailed to a tee. it makes fantastic beer hits all the numbers every brew all, you have to do is learn how to use it
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It isn't all just about the SVB and as Rod rightly says getting the chosen SVB to fall into stride with how one brews. None of us are going to have the same MO when it comes to brewing but multiple methods achieve the same objective. Before forking out for a single vessel it is better to have some idea about the science behind brewing. What happens in the mash tun, what happens during the boil, why we make water adjustments, the grains and adjuncts we select to brew certain beers and fermentation.
Not getting to grips with the science will see second hand SVB's on buy swap and sell when the user, who may have expected that the latter would make him produce better beer and is left disappointed.
This video wasn't chosen because of the make brew kettle, which is irrelevant but because the purchaser not knowing how to use it and doesn't know what temperature the Beta Amylase is denatured leaving him with a loss of fermentable sugars and on the whole not much about brewing.
Not getting to grips with the science will see second hand SVB's on buy swap and sell when the user, who may have expected that the latter would make him produce better beer and is left disappointed.
This video wasn't chosen because of the make brew kettle, which is irrelevant but because the purchaser not knowing how to use it and doesn't know what temperature the Beta Amylase is denatured leaving him with a loss of fermentable sugars and on the whole not much about brewing.
Really? Or are you saying you know how to use it? The OP has never used one before he does not know what to expect and wht he will get is nothing like what BZ marketing are showing. The Brewzilla G4 was only just on the market and new users were going tonto because the promise of step mashes and no over shots were just that promises. These systems all suffer the same problem the indicated temperature is not the same as the wort that is flowing over the grains temperature over shoots are the order of the day. Brewzilla themselves know the problem that is the reason they are promoting the RAPT BT thermometer to monitor the mash for that rather than the indicated temperature on the display. On that point that is exactly how I use my AIO . It only took me two or three brews to understand that the indicated temp was not the true temp. I have that nailed now and know how to control the heating over shooting by too much.
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I can certainly say mine holds temperature.
I think all purchasers need have the correct expectation: These are accurate boilers with extras. They are not brewing robots that you can just pour grains in the top and get beer out the bottom.
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Stickers are available from all good online retailers...
Agentgonzo
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Yes really
I've got a G30, not a BZ.
but I've never had an overshoot, it maintains the mash temp to within a degree and the same for step mashes. No "learning how to use it", it just hits the temperatures every time straight out of the box. The indicated temperature is EXACTLY the temperature of the wort flowing over the grains
(And yes, I've independently verified this, and the mash temperature at different levels in the mash bed with a different accurate thermometer).
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A lot of hype for the BZ4 it seems. ~£450 seems reasonable, I guess, considering it would last a while. I reckon I could probably brew much better beer as well. It's either that or I'm buying a grain basket for my peco. However I think I'd likely fall into the habit of not brewing much again, as I wouldn't really be changing anything.
Great !
Sadfield
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Sounds like you need something to be passionate about or motivated for.
Perhaps entering a competition or two, or joining a brew club. Or, maybe invest in some of the best beers from around the globe and maybe discover something new. Or going on a few beer trips or brewery tours. May reveal a new source of inspiration.
Perhaps entering a competition or two, or joining a brew club. Or, maybe invest in some of the best beers from around the globe and maybe discover something new. Or going on a few beer trips or brewery tours. May reveal a new source of inspiration.
Interestingly I ran this test (on my G30) and got the same results, too. It was when BZ had announced the bluetooth RAPT thermometer - I understood the issue it was there to resolve and started wondering how far out the G30 was during a mash. But it appears to resolve an issue which just exists in the BZ equipment.
I imagine the speed of flow through the mash is quite important and a slower flow will potentially cause greater temperature stratification in the mash but, in that scenario, increasing the flow rate to get some return down the overflow would likely get better temperature feedback to the sensor in the base.
Agentgonzo
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I think it may be the difference in the controller.
The G30 (not sure about other grainfather models) has a PID controller which accurately controls the temperature and is designed to prevent against things like overshoot. It'll more gradually approach the target temperature in the final stages. During the mash, it will sit at a low percentage power to keep the temperature "just right" rather than waiting for it to drop, then coming in at full power.
Whereas I think (not checked) the other models just have a "turn element on 100% if it's under target temperature and off otherwise" which leads to overshoots.
It's probably why the GF is more expensive, but more accurate too
The G30 (not sure about other grainfather models) has a PID controller which accurately controls the temperature and is designed to prevent against things like overshoot. It'll more gradually approach the target temperature in the final stages. During the mash, it will sit at a low percentage power to keep the temperature "just right" rather than waiting for it to drop, then coming in at full power.
Whereas I think (not checked) the other models just have a "turn element on 100% if it's under target temperature and off otherwise" which leads to overshoots.
It's probably why the GF is more expensive, but more accurate too
Yep. I have a G40 which also has PID. The cheaper S40 doesn't.
Yep, got one of those as part of the order. It's one of the things I'm looking forward to - controlling the mash temp rather than letting it drift down through my target range.
The cheaper S40 does not have much to be fair two stage heating and recirculation
The user interface/controller is poor however if you understand what is happening the system can make really good wort. I worked in science research for all my working life and without wanting to sound like a knowall should have been Noble prize winner that sort of background sets you up perfectly to understand the faults and how to solve the problems, it is what you did. In praise of the S40 it is well made and has the potential to make decent wort but you need to understand what you are trying to do.Similar threads
