Bottling bucket.

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Rover69

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I'm brewing a blonde beer and says to transfer from brew bucket to another for bottling.After watching a few videos of other beer brewing they bottle straight from brew bucket.Just wondering why it says to transfer to another bucket for bottling?
 
You can do it either way. Either straight from the FV to bottles and add priming sugar to each bottle (bottle priming); or via a bottling bucket, adding the sugar the whole batch of beer before bottling (batch priming).

I like to use a bottling bucket. I make too much mess syphoning straight to bottles. Using a bottling bucket is easier for me. And I use a 'little bottler' to get the beer from the bottling bucket into my bottles, which is dead easy and no mess or waste.

I think I get more even carbonation when I batch prime. And also it gives any hop or trub matter that has come from the FV a chance to settle out in the bottling bucket, so there is less matter going into the bottles.

But you can do it either way. It's just a case of finding which method works best for you.
 
Cheers Magnus, never gave it a thought to prime that way.Think will prime bottles first and bottle straight from fv,like you say more cleaning to do other way
 
The main reason is so you can mix a priming solution in with the beer before bottling, rather than dosing individual bottles (which can end up with variable levels of carbonation unless you are very precise).

It also helps to avoid picking up too much yeast from the fermenter, but with careful racking that's avoidable.
 
Cheers Magnus, never gave it a thought to prime that way.Think will prime bottles first and bottle straight from fv,like you say more cleaning to do other way

Be prepared for possible spillage. Don't do it on your wife's favourite table. Need good dexterity to manage the end of the syphon that is in the FV, plus the other end going into the tops of multiple bottles. I always make a mess. But I am cack-handed.
 
Thanks,can get help for that part.Think I'll use bottling bucket with this brew, first one so want it to be as good as can get it.
Also have water proof cover for table and floor,no mistakes about wrath of wife .
 
When transferred to second fv does the airlock hole get bunged?
 
When transferred to second fv does the airlock hole get bunged?
When transferring beer into the bottling bucket, put your sugar syrup in first made up to the priming rate calculated from below and allow the incoming beer to thoroughly mix in.
https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/No need to get too concerned about keeping the lid on at this stage, or worry about airlocks, since you need to be able to see what is in the FVs as you transfer and later package your beer, but definitely avoid splashing your beer. Next a clip holding the siphon tube in place at the FV rim is useful since it means it frees up your hands to do other things. I made mine from two plastic cloths pegs with small holes drilled in each through which is threaded garden wire to hold the siphon tube in place.
I am not sure how you will fill your bottles whether by tap or siphon but again avoid splashing if you can.
Personally I occasionally use the bottling bucket approach, but since I use mostly one litre PET bottles and a few flip tops I find it easier to prime individual bottles.
Lastly bottling beer is likely to generate some spillage however you do it, so just accept it and when you are done make sure you have cleaned any mess up and left your work area as you found it, especially if its a shared kitchen
 
Some here say second ferment in fv for around two weeks,do you decant into second fv then bottle straight away?
 
Some here say second ferment in fv for around two weeks,do you decant into second fv then bottle straight away?
I ferment until complete in the FV, I always leave it for 14 days from pitching yeast as a minimum, then I simply decant that to a bottling bucket with the sugar solution and bottle, I don't bother with second FV ever. The other advantage of bottling from a bottling bucket is there is less chance of getting trub carried over to the bottle. I hate siphons, such a messy business so bottle with a wand which is so easy to use.
 
Some here say second ferment in fv for around two weeks,do you decant into second fv then bottle straight away?
Yes. As I suggested you transfer from the first FV onto the made up sugar solution. If don't bottle straight away the longer you leave it the more of the priming sugar will get consumed and that is lost to the carbing process.
If I use fv for second fermentation do I cover hole?
You are transferring to a bottling bucket not another FV. The secondary fermentation takes place in the bottles
 
Ah ok,will take my chances going straight to bottle then,save spending more on a bottling bucket.I have a wand so hopefully straight forward bottling.
Thanks for that Terry.A lot to take in when starting out
 
In order to be able to reduce the volume of yeast reaching the bottle I intend to siphon off my current brew to a second FV fitted with a tap from which I will bottle via a "little bottler". Here is the gear for the first step which incorporates a few tips gratefully picked up on here. I will be dry hopping in the first FV hence the filter bag. I am undecided about whether to batch
20201027_114152.jpg
prime in the second FV due to the competing factors of more time to clear against sugar being consumed so would be grateful for advice on this please.
 
Ah that's where I'm getting mixed up between bucket and fermenter.
 
In order to be able to reduce the volume of yeast reaching the bottle I intend to siphon off my current brew to a second FV fitted with a tap from which I will bottle via a "little bottler". Here is the gear for the first step which incorporates a few tips gratefully picked up on here. I will be dry hopping in the first FV hence the filter bag. I am undecided about whether to batch View attachment 34668prime in the second FV due to the competing factors of more time to clear against sugar being consumed so would be grateful for advice on this please.
Why not just allow your beer to clear in the first FV (you may have to adjust your dry hop timings) perhaps with two or three days in a cool or cold place at the end. Then transfer to the bottling bucket. If you are struggling with beers that don't seem to clear in the FV you might consider changing to a higher flocculating yeast, one of the most common being a GV12 or Notty type.
I have racked off into a second FV in the past but always bottled directly from that after a few days clearing
 
Why not just allow your beer to clear in the first FV (you may have to adjust your dry hop timings) perhaps with two or three days in a cool or cold place at the end. Then transfer to the bottling bucket. If you are struggling with beers that dont seem to clear in the FV you might consider changing to a higher flocculating yeast, one the most common being a GV12 or notty type
Ok thanks and will allow more time to clear in first FV and hop later but part of the reason for this method is that I brew upstairs and cannot move brew to a cooler place. I am trying this method before ditching kit yeasts though if putting ingredients together myself certainly would go for a high grade yeast.
 
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