Strike water to mash tun

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I just dough in with enough water to get the consistency of mash i want.. anot too thickish lumpless porridge :) Then when it comes to sparging i batch sparge, sparge #1 is to the tun top.. and i measure the volume out.. I know upto 2l will trickle out at the end of sparging while the boil gets going, and i know my target starting volume based on the evaporation rate,

so batch #2 will be about (TargetStartingVolume - 2 - 1st batch volume) Litres.

U can jug in the 2nd batch volume, but a bit of math will tell u what sort of volume 1cm depth in your tun will hold and u can fill Xcm from the top on that basis.

A dip stick is a great tool for boil kettle volumes or hlt volumes, the grain mass mucks things up for using in a tun tho..
 
Fil said:
I just dough in with enough water to get the consistency of mash i want..

And me, by underletting once the level of liquid has covered the grains I give it a stir. Then check temperature and maybe add a small amount of either hot or cold to correct.
 
Fil said:
A dip stick is a great tool for boil kettle volumes or hlt volumes, the grain mass mucks things up for using in a tun tho..

If you put the water in the tun first, before adding the grain, that's not a problem though.
 
StevieDS said:
Fil said:
A dip stick is a great tool for boil kettle volumes or hlt volumes, the grain mass mucks things up for using in a tun tho..

If you put the water in the tun first, before adding the grain, that's not a problem though.


true but that can make doughing in a real chore, especially with a larger brewlength.

underletting as mentioned by DK filling via the drain with the grain in place saturates 90%+ of the grain before you start with the spoon or paddle, while adding the grain to the liquor in the tun can encourage dry flour balls forming needing a lot more spoon/paddle input to break up.

However thats one of the beauties of brewing you choose what works well for you..

fyi i use a 500mm SS ruler for a dipstick, for clarity i mark the final target volume with a cable tie giving an easy quick reference guide for the boil progress. the steam n my need for glasses to read the ruler are not such a hot combination, sharper eyes could no doubt use the ruler alone. i did consider having the ruler as a permanent pot fixture, but the thought of the ink gradient dissolving during a 90 min boil and the effect of dried boil scum on the scale obscuring a reading put me off that one.. :)
 
StevieDS said:
Interesting :hmm: I've never tried adding water to grain via the mt drain, I might give that a go next brew day.

It's the way most professional brewers do it.
 
dennisking said:
StevieDS said:
Interesting :hmm: I've never tried adding water to grain via the mt drain, I might give that a go next brew day.

It's the way most professional brewers do it.

I'm still new to 3 tier brewing, I was biab until last month, so I've still loads to learn :D
 
I under let for the first time about 8-10 brews ago, I wouldn't do it any other way now.
 
dennisking said:
StevieDS said:
Interesting :hmm: I've never tried adding water to grain via the mt drain, I might give that a go next brew day.

It's the way most professional brewers do it.

I need to hit the gym but my recent expenditure means I need to save money. Therefore I'll be stirring my mashes!
 
I made a calibrated dip stick for my boiler so that I can accurately measure it's contents. When it's at the right temperature I just connect boiler to mash-tun using silicon hose and open taps until enough water has left the boiler.
Simples :thumb:
Graham
 
dennisking said:
StevieDS said:
Interesting :hmm: I've never tried adding water to grain via the mt drain, I might give that a go next brew day.

It's the way most professional brewers do it.

So I tried underletting for the first time yesterday, why didn't it occur to me before :doh: So much easier than adding grain to water!
 
It helps when underletting to put a couple of kettles of boiling water in the mash tun for 15mins or so before adding the grain to warm the tun. My normal brewing plan means I then use this hot water in the sink after to use for washing up.
 
Ah, I see now. I use my boiler for the strike water and as such need to pour the dead space water in as well. I trust that I can do this once the water is above the grain?
 
I wouldn't imagine that would be a problem, but why don't you just add extra water to account for your dead space? For example, my HLT has 1.8l of dead space so if I need to mash in with say 12l I put 13.8l in my HLT. When under letting I just open up the taps and let it all drain into the mt.
 
I treat my water as per the recommendations of the bru n water excel sheet which is tied to the volume of strike water required.

I could add the salts directly to the grain but I was advised to add them to the cold water prior to heating it.
 

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