Wyeast seminar

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artiums_enteri

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A representative from wyeast will be coming down to my local home brew shop to talk to the club about nerdy yeast info. I'm very excited about this since yeast for me is the most fascinating aspect of brewing. I'll post some info on the discussion if there is new stuff to talk about. The lecture takes place on Friday evening.
 
nice 1 i'll be looking forward to hearing about it , i often only use dry yeast but my last 3 have been liquid (wlp) and there much better but alas more expensive , however i've also started to re use the liquid form yeast so if all goes well they will in fact be cheaper, i did use a wyeast smack pack once which didn't work but i think that was down to my inexperience rather than faulty yeast :cheers:
 
Looking forward to the info. Yeast facinates me, I cultivate all mine now from bottles as so much better than dried and seems to mutate for the better into your own brews. Funnily enough, I started with Hopback for 1 brew of pale, I have used this for a good few brews and is now totally different to the stuff I have used for the darker beers.

If I keg the beer, I always make sure that I store a couple of bottles of that brew somewhere safe, then If the yeast goes pete tong at a later date I can back track to the bottle of the last previous brew and cultivate from that...works for me
 
robbarwell said:
If I keg the beer, I always make sure that I store a couple of bottles of that brew somewhere safe, then If the yeast goes pete tong at a later date I can back track to the bottle of the last previous brew and cultivate from that...works for me

Interesting method of storing yeast for future reuse, never thought of that. :)

I feel i have to try it by myself.
 
Well the talk was really fascinating. It was geared more toward newer brewers covering general good fermentation and yeast handling practices, but there was a lot of good info.

The first topic was yeast starters. Wyeast smack packs are destined to inoculate a 5 gallon batch of beer per package at 1.040 or less. That doesn't mean that if you brew a beer of 1.040 that a starter isn't recommended, it's just not mandatory. Of course a starter will help with strong fermentation and better to ferment out diacytal and whatnot. After 1.040 the brewer should add an additional smack packet per 15 gravity points plus a starter. For instance: my house beer is a pale that has an OG of 1.060 and an FG of 1.009. To ensure good yeast health and proper attenuation I should use 2 smack packs with a 1000ml starter on a stir plate for 20 hours. I harvest and bank my yeast for 3 generations per wash, so the smack packs only pertain to the great grand parent batch.

The second topic was yeast starters. Your starter should have an OG of 1.040. The use of a stir plate really increases the viability of the yeast by 50%. With the use of the stir plate the yeast starter should be made 24 hours prior to pitching. After 20 hours the yeast will have mowed through all the available sugars in the starter, and it will go dormant. Too long on the stir plate can beat up the yeast quite a bit.

The next topic that was covered was temperature control. I think just about all of us already know the importance of this, and already practice it. Along with temp control was diacytal rest, cold break, hot break, and DMS.

The last topic that was covered was yeast harvesting, washing, and banking. This covered the harvest of yeast from your fermenter and some do's and don't's. For instance: it's not a good idea to toss fresh wort right on top of a previously used cake without washing it and being sure you have pulled only the viable yeast. From here you can put the yeast in slants and bank it to build up the cultures for future use. Each culture is good for up to 5 generations. After the 5th generation the cells have budded so many times that now you are left with only the most flocculant of the cells. For those of you who re-pitch may find that the third pitch is usually the best batch of beer from that culture. I asked about this, and the explanation I received was basically that by the third pitch the culture is still very healthy and now has grown accustomed to your brewing practices and environment.

All and all it was a very good discussion. My wife and I enjoyed the talk very much. I also asked the rep about the availability of wyeast products in the UK. He explained that 28% of wyeast's business is conducted in Europe with many distributors in Britain. He said if you guys contact your brew shops they can order any strain for you, but the shops should be stocking the yeast already.
 
I lost Internet access before I could add a few more things I remembered about the talk.

One was over pitching. While its not really discussed much, it does pose real problems. By over pitching yeast, the yeast can work too quickly and fish way too fast. This is an issue for some strains that produce lots of esters and phenolics that add greatly to a beer's character. By finishing too quickly those characters might be absent.

They also talked about the importance of yeast nutrients and O2. Yeast nutrients should be added to the stater, but O2 does not need to be introduced to a starter using a stir plate. When using a stir plate an air lock should be placed on the beaker, but rather a piece of tin foil. This will allow C02 to escape, and still bring in O2 and mix into solution with the motion of the stir bar. Pure O2 should always be added to the wort after the cold break. Most brewers use a diffusion stone, and 10 seconds per 15 gravity points after 1.040 should be adequate.

I hope my reporting skills helped you guys out a bit.
 
Thanks for posting, most interesting talk. Anyone recommend a yeast similar to the bready taste found in Hopbacks gfb, not sure if they use the same in their summer lightning.........
 
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