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4mm compression fitting and a matching locknut. Simples.

Bloody hell, that looks like something out of an old public information film! Elastictrickery is dangerous stuff folks, be careful out there.

I feel like a right ****** now. :roll: The thing is I believed all the fluff about how much better kits are these days, tried the expensive ones (more than one type) and found them lacking. If you want to have a toe in the water then kits are a start but don't expect fantastic beer 'coz you...

True, but how many people have tried kits and given up home brew as a bad job? I used to do the premium kits and tell myself they were good, I was kidding myself frankly. At the cost of 50p a pint they are very poor value indeed.

Is there any such thing as a good kit? I've tried a few of the premium ones and found them to be mostly mediocre at best. Had I realised the results possible with AG and how easy it was I'd never have bothered with kits.

What about the staining effect of the Videne? Is this not an issue, especially on plastic parts?

Yes it did. Lead free stuff is bloody awful and needs a higher melting point than good old eutectic 63:37 solder. The lead ban cost me, and the whole electronics industry, a bloody fortune and resulted in poorer reliability of products due to the higher temperatures and weaker joints produced...

Potable solder is fine obviously.

If you've already got the gear then you might as well use it, you'll need to calibrate the sensor though. Thermocouple tolerances aren't much to shout about so you could be a couple of degrees out. Just bear in mind next time you are buying!

I don't think I see the point of the multistaggered hop additions? It's just to keep you busy on brew day isn't it! :D

Close but no cigar. Thermocouples work on the Seebeck effect which loosely means that there is a potential difference between the 'hot' (measuring) junction of two disimilar metal and the 'cold' (reference, usually at the meter point) junction. Personally I would rather use a piece of wet...

Don't get your pt100 from those dudes, they're 5mm and that's a pig to get compression fittings for.

Bonza. I'm going to have to make a frame for my conical, these could prove handy.

Actually I'm coming 'round to the idea of using my 8mm, seeing as it's there. It'll give a better heat transfer which would be an advantage at the lower flow rates I'll be using for HERMS.

Do those magnet jobbies have a proper name?

What bore tube did you use for your heat exchanger old bean? I've some 8mm lying around from my cfc build but I was wondering if it was perhaps too small.

Gonna build me a couple of those balance valve thingies then. :thumb: Wondering if there's a reason for using the gate style stops rather than ball taps?

I'm assuming your PIDs can't accept pt100s? Anyone buying a PID for brewing should make sure that they get one which uses PT100s or silicon sensors. My experience from the industry is that unless you have a very good reason to use a thermocouple then you should go for platinum sensors. Good...

Yeah, they aren't cheap but the do add a certain something. I didn't want to faff about pulling pipes on and off so this seemed like a good solution. Another big head scratcher is the deployment of the recirc/sparge ideally I want it closed but that leaves the problem of how to monitor the rates...

I just pump some of the 'waste' hot water back through, works well. Before next use it gets a relatively strong bleach solution and a rinse. I get maybe 10-15l of water through for a 5 gallon cool and it is very quick.