BIAB kettle

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Surfingobo

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I have the KLARSTEIN FULLHORN, which looks similar to this only this has a little more volume. The Fullhorn is 30 litres to the brim and I can get away with 27 litres max boil volume. I use mine with a bag for the mash. The two heater controls on the Fullhorn are 900w and 1600w, this allows you to use both (2500w) to bring to the boil and then 1600w for rolling boil and 900w to maintain mash temperature.
I see the Digiboil has 500w and 1900w so hopefuly this would still work as well. The Fullhorn has a bazooka and a false bottom with strainer which I cannot see if the Digiboil has but I would suggest that you would want one if you were to use it for the mash.
I think the extra volume of the Digiboil would be useful but would want a false bottom with seive or would have to make one myself.
 
Thanks Galena

This has a concealed element so presumably no need for a false bottom. The bazooka would be useful if it doesn't get clogged?

How long does it take you to get to strike temperature normally? And from mash to boil?
 
Also, does the klarstein just display the temperature of the wort or does it allow you to set it to reach a certain temperature and then just walk away? It looks as though you control the temperature with the knob next to the display?
 
Thanks Galena

This has a concealed element so presumably no need for a false bottom. The bazooka would be useful if it doesn't get clogged?

How long does it take you to get to strike temperature normally? And from mash to boil?
Mine also has a concealed element but the false bottom keeps the bag off the bottom and some stuff away from the valve, I stopped using the bazooka it was usually okay but on one brew it got completely blocked and I had to stick my arm in to clear it. Thats another reason I like having the false bottom.
It is quite quick to heat up, I couldn't give you a time, from cold to strike I usually do other things like measure out grain, boil some adjustment water in a pan and so on, I haven't timed it though. From mash to boil though it is very quick.

Also, does the klarstein just display the temperature of the wort or does it allow you to set it to reach a certain temperature and then just walk away? It looks as though you control the temperature with the knob next to the display?
The Fullhorn has two dials, one is a timer that I don't really use, you set it to a time and it dings and cuts off the heater when time is up, I tend to just leave it on without timer and use my phone.
The other dial is to adjust temperature which you set on a LCD display. When you are adjusting it displays the desired temperature so you can adjust it to say 67 deg. it then defaults to the wort temperature as it heats up and the thermostat will hold it at 67 deg once it gets there. Pressing and holding the knob will show you what you have set it to, so both numbers are always available.
There is also a Klarstein Beerfest which is almost the same as the Fullhorn only a bit cheaper as it does not have the LCD display, personally I would find this less accurate for mash temperature.

What I do now though is to have a cooler with my sparge water in and then the mash water in the Fullhorn. I do the mash but have started to recirculate manually with a jug because any heated mash tun will be warmer at the bottom where the thermostat is, I only need to do this now and again, like when the heater turns on and I monitor temperature at the top with a digital thermometer. I will get a pump for this eventually.
Then when the mash is over I decant to a bucket and then batch sparge from the cooler, remove the grains and then put the wort from the bucket back in the Fullhorn. You don't need to do this but I found it was a slightly better efficiency.
There is a BIAB bag available for the Beerfest which also fits the Klarstein, it is not cheap but it does fit well and I have now bought a second bag because rather then use a hop spider or a small muslin bag for hops I have started to use the second mash bag for the hops because it gives full water to the hops and is not restricted, you can just empty and quickly rinse out the mash bag of course, which is what I did but buying a second bag for convenience.
 
Thanks for your reply, very interesting! I had was leaning away from the Klarstein because I didn't think you could set a target temperature but now it is definitely back in the running and with the false bottom works out at pretty much the same price as the digiboil albeit a tiny bit smaller which I don't think bothers me particularly.

I would be BIAB without removing the wort to a cooler to sparge due to space constraints. What sort of efficiency are you getting?
 
Bazookas work best with leaf hops rather than pellet, the hops form a layer over the bazooka, which acts as a filter to filter out the smaller particles. That's why back when I used DIY kit I used whole hops mainly. Pellet hops they just block horribly.

Incidentally, it's fairly easy to add recirculation to these types of machines with a few fittings and a £48 pump from brew builder, but if you drill the lid like I did back then you will invalidate any warranty you had (when I did it, ACE had gone bump, taking any warranty I had with it...).

IMG_20180407_121012.jpg

You can do it without drilling the lid too by just resting the lid on the return pipe (a few folks did this around the same time I had that kit). Keep in mind though that by the time you've bought a false bottom, bag, fittings, pump etc you've pretty much spent the money that you saved buying just the boiler rather than the RoboBrew that came with a grain basket, built in pump, programmable controller etc... lol The ACE came with a bag and false bottom (company doesn't exist now though, as mentioned they went bump), so wasn't quite so bad.

I personally have found that with this hobby you end up going 1 of 3 routes, keep it simple and all stays reasonable, try to save money and it ends up costing you more money in the future, just spend more at the start and save money down the road. lol

Whatever though, you'll probably make beer that you enjoy along the way. athumb..
 
Bazookas work best with leaf hops rather than pellet, the hops form a layer over the bazooka, which acts as a filter to filter out the smaller particles. That's why back when I used DIY kit I used whole hops mainly. Pellet hops they just block horribly.

Incidentally, it's fairly easy to add recirculation to these types of machines with a few fittings and a £48 pump from brew builder, but if you drill the lid like I did back then you will invalidate any warranty you had (when I did it, ACE had gone bump, taking any warranty I had with it...).

View attachment 29991

You can do it without drilling the lid too .

I believe the Klarstein's lid has a hole ready for a return pipe.
 
I have the KLARSTEIN FULLHORN, which looks similar to this only this has a little more volume. The Fullhorn is 30 litres to the brim and I can get away with 27 litres max boil volume. I use mine with a bag for the mash. The two heater controls on the Fullhorn are 900w and 1600w, this allows you to use both (2500w) to bring to the boil and then 1600w for rolling boil and 900w to maintain mash temperature.
I see the Digiboil has 500w and 1900w so hopefuly this would still work as well. The Fullhorn has a bazooka and a false bottom with strainer which I cannot see if the Digiboil has but I would suggest that you would want one if you were to use it for the mash.
I think the extra volume of the Digiboil would be useful but would want a false bottom with seive or would have to make one myself.

I don't suppose you have diameter of the opening of the top of Fullhorn?
 
I’m quite happy with the stove top Biab method, I don’t think I want to get on to recirculating as, as far as I can tell it is just a small bump in efficiency for a lot of extra cost and stuff to go wrong? Any other reason to go for the extras?
 
I’m quite happy with the stove top Biab method, I don’t think I want to get on to recirculating as, as far as I can tell it is just a small bump in efficiency for a lot of extra cost and stuff to go wrong? Any other reason to go for the extras?
The reason I am going for re-circulation is to keep the mash temperature even throughout which is relevant on a heated mash tun where it heats from the bottom, but not so on a non heated I guess.
 
I’ve been looking at the digiboil 35L unit for £120. Anybody got any experience of this unit? I understand it’s a brewzilla/brew devil without the pump and extras (and £200 cheaper!). Alternatively any suggestions on what to look for? I currently BIAB with a 15L pot on the stove but struggle to hold a good boil.

https://www.angelhomebrew.co.uk/rob...ry/473-digiboil-35l-digital-boiler-2400w.html
I always thought this looked like the best compromise between the system and cost Maischfest Mash Kettle
 
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