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if even after a rouse to mix in the sediment leave it at least 3-4 weeks to do its thing.
a cheap temperature logger sat next to the brew to indicate whats happening temperature wise during the day may indicate a wide swing in temps that could upset the yeast??
stabalising the brewbucket temperature by insulating it especially from any draughts that could chill too low overnight
If after 4 weeks however its still sat at 1.024 and not suffering from wide temperature swings,
test bottle a couple one with a priming charge one without. wrap the one with a priming charge (level teaspoon of white sugar) in a towel and keep in a bag/box just in case if glass, if pet dont fret at all
and stash the 2 test bottles in a warmer spot for a week. If the bottle without a priming charge has carbonated and developed some condition, sit on the bucket a further week or two, but if its not conditioned at all AND the bottle with a priming charge HAS conditioned somewhat (1 week may not be sufficient for full conditioning ) You can probably bottle and prime as usual and the kits finished with a higher FG than expected, It can happen .. BUT if neither bottles have any condition Then it may be the case that somethings killed your yeast, perhaps a careless sample draw with a bleached and unrinsed turkey baster (Yup im guessing??). in which case you may wish to try repitching and monitoring for up to a further 2 weeks.
the kit instructions all indicate a brew may be complete and ready to pour in a month or less, and in optimum conditions a fizzy drink can be poured within that sort of time scale, However its a live process and as such can and generally does take a little longer, especially as when conditioned (generally after 2 weeks in the warm (20-25c) the beer will generally benefit from a period of maturing too I may prefer a more mature brew than some but i think a general rule is mature for a week for every 0.010 gravity points above 1.000 so with an OG of 1.070 your looking at a 7-8 week period of maturity, And while it may be difficult for you to maintain patience and keep your hands off the brew that long I do urge you to stash a few bottles to mature for a longer period so you can judge the difference it makes to a brew for yourself..
Perhaps a more standard kit with a 1040-1050 OG for the next brew, you can always embelish with a specific yeast strain for characteristics and perhaps an additional aroma hop addition in the FV
BTW its always the problematic brews that stick in your mind and often result in good surprises too so dont be too disheartened.
a cheap temperature logger sat next to the brew to indicate whats happening temperature wise during the day may indicate a wide swing in temps that could upset the yeast??
stabalising the brewbucket temperature by insulating it especially from any draughts that could chill too low overnight
If after 4 weeks however its still sat at 1.024 and not suffering from wide temperature swings,
test bottle a couple one with a priming charge one without. wrap the one with a priming charge (level teaspoon of white sugar) in a towel and keep in a bag/box just in case if glass, if pet dont fret at all
and stash the 2 test bottles in a warmer spot for a week. If the bottle without a priming charge has carbonated and developed some condition, sit on the bucket a further week or two, but if its not conditioned at all AND the bottle with a priming charge HAS conditioned somewhat (1 week may not be sufficient for full conditioning ) You can probably bottle and prime as usual and the kits finished with a higher FG than expected, It can happen .. BUT if neither bottles have any condition Then it may be the case that somethings killed your yeast, perhaps a careless sample draw with a bleached and unrinsed turkey baster (Yup im guessing??). in which case you may wish to try repitching and monitoring for up to a further 2 weeks.
the kit instructions all indicate a brew may be complete and ready to pour in a month or less, and in optimum conditions a fizzy drink can be poured within that sort of time scale, However its a live process and as such can and generally does take a little longer, especially as when conditioned (generally after 2 weeks in the warm (20-25c) the beer will generally benefit from a period of maturing too I may prefer a more mature brew than some but i think a general rule is mature for a week for every 0.010 gravity points above 1.000 so with an OG of 1.070 your looking at a 7-8 week period of maturity, And while it may be difficult for you to maintain patience and keep your hands off the brew that long I do urge you to stash a few bottles to mature for a longer period so you can judge the difference it makes to a brew for yourself..
Perhaps a more standard kit with a 1040-1050 OG for the next brew, you can always embelish with a specific yeast strain for characteristics and perhaps an additional aroma hop addition in the FV
BTW its always the problematic brews that stick in your mind and often result in good surprises too so dont be too disheartened.
