Calling All false Bottom Builders

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mashman

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I have ordered a sheet of perforated stainless with 2mm holes for my MT false bottom. I intend to make it stand off the bottom with 3 or 4 small plastic pillars screwed through some of the holes. The disc will be a few millimeters smaller than the tun walls so I can edge it with soft silicone tubing to make it a snug fit.

2 questions.....

I'm going to have to cut a round disc out of a square sheet. What is the best tool for cutting this perforated stainless, is it too hard for tin snips ?

I'm choosing soft silicone tube because I figure that like silicone cookware it will stand mash temperatures better, does anyone know if I can glue the ends successfully and if so what glue ?

If anyone has any further observations I'm open to suggestion. Cheers guys. :thumb:
 
Use some stainless bolts to stand the mash tun up from the floor of the boiler.
muddydisco did mine for me......I'm sure he'll be kind enough to post the part number when he sees this.
I can't help you with regard cutting the perforated sheet - sorry.
A length of beer line split down the middle is good for around the edge of the flase bottom once you have cut it.
Don't join the ends......as it gets warm, it will expand......if it is joined together it will warp.
Actually, you need to cut the beer line about 1 inch shorter than the circumfrence - when you put hot liquor in there it will expand and close the gap ;)

ATB
 
mashman said:
I'm choosing soft silicone tube because I figure that like silicone cookware it will stand mash temperatures better, does anyone know if I can glue the ends successfully and if so what glue ?
Silicone is the only glue that will stick to silicone. I've used silicone tube with my false bottoms and its great. . . .made it a smidge of a bit bigger than the diameter of the tun which keeps it in place well. . . . Didn't bother sticking mine together
 
mashman, what size is the ss sheet, and, where are you getting it from?
 
I cut mine with a dremel, probably got through about 8-10 cutting discs!

The silicone tube I hold on with a piece of wire wrapped around each end, comes off easily and only takes a moment to clean.

And my stainless came from the same ebay seller as mashmans.
 
Kieth, that is a lot of cutting!

I don't want to do that much trimming and rounding off for my false bottom unless there is no other choice.

I've been looking into ss mesh. I placed a question on another thread but on reflection think it belongs here (to avoid duplication I will delete it in edit and ask here)

I've been looking into a ss false bottom (similar to Aleman’s, and, Vossy‘s) but am unsure about which gauge I should look for.
What gauge would be best for the hop filter in the boiler?
Also, I am leaning towards a ss false bottom in my MT what gauge is appropriate for the grain?
Do they have to be grade 304 or higher as well?
 
My ss mesh came a couple of days age. 20 gauge for the grain, and, 30 gauge for the hops. Won't be long now...
 
Try these from Machine Mart, around £1.50 each.

3052050.jpg
 
Are they suitable for Stainless Steel BB? these ones deffinately are...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/flexovit-ultra-thin-metal-cutting-discs-pk-of-5/71334 and at 0.8mm thin they fly through metal. On average I use 1 to 1 1/2 disc per false bottom (1.5mm thick 316 stainless steel). They need to be stainless rated to avoid bits of the disk causing rust spots after cutting.

See here for the build detail and perhaps give you some ideas mashman...
http://www.jimsbeerkit.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=41588
 
mashman,

Did you go with the plastic pillars or ss bolts to stand your false bottom?
 
Neither yet, just waiting for 5 mins to do some building but I will definately be going with the plastic pillars, probably about 25mm tall. I have some 15mm diameter acrylic rod that I'll chop up and drill a small pilot hole in the end to take a stainless self tapper through the holes in the mesh. :thumb:
 
I've been considering plastic pillars too: they seem an ideal, cheap, simple solution.
But, my concern is temperature tolerance. :hmm:
I've read somewhere that acrylic rods are only rated to 80 degrees C; I could be mistaken but another alternative plastic rod would be needed if boiling!

What/which plastic rods are you going for?
 
Another inexpensive option is SS braid off of water supply lines. Toilet supply lines and washer supply lines have stainless braid over them, just push the tubing out and used the braid as a false bottom. I've been using this one for 6 years now and I get 80%+ efficiency with no stuck sparges.

Stainlessbraid2.jpg
 
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