Fermentation stopped after 3 days

[jonnymorris]

I've a Munton's stout on the go and yet fermentation has stopped after 3 days, i.e. there are no bubbles coming through the airlock.

That's a bit too soon isn't it?

It's at 17degC. Is that too cold and should I warm it up a bit?

 

[RobWalker]

It's a tiny bit cool but should be okay. Did you get a good foam on it?

3 days isn't really too soon, beer is very fast to ferment. You need to take a gravity reading to see where it stands - should be between 1.010 and 1.015, and the same reading a few days later. I usually let mine clear in the fermenting bucket anyway, pretty much guaruntees fermentation has had enough time and less trub everywhere generally.

 

[Runwell-Steve]

I would try and warm it a little bit.

There is only one reliable way to say whether it is fermenting or not, and that is to use a hydrometer to test the gravity. It may not look very active, but it is probably still working away slowly.

Some things do ferment out very quickly, some things take a long time.

 

[jonnymorris]

It did get a good froth and was definitely going after c.24 hours. Doesn't look very active now though.

I've put the belt on to try and warm it up a bit.

 

[jonnymorris]

Up to 24 degC and bubbling away again.

Result.

 

[eggman]

Up to 24 degC and bubbling away again.

Try not to let it get any higher than that, fermenting at high temps can impart off flavours on your brew. Try to aim for 18-21 deg
+1 to Steves advice, sometimes it might look like there's nothing going on but the yeast is still busy.
Even if it had finished after 3 days i'd leave it in there for at least a week to drop clear either that or rack off to another fv
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[jonnymorris]

Thanks for the tip. I'm just home and its not actually bubbling despite my wife assuring me on the phone earlier that it was.

I guess I'd better take a hydrometer reading to see what's going on?

 

[Vossy1]

I guess I'd better take a hydrometer reading to see what's going on?

Always best, let us know what it's reading

 

[jonnymorris]

The OG was 1042 and its now at 1023 and doesn't look like its doing anything. Any ideas why it's stopped short?

 

[eggman]

If the fermenting temperatures fluctuate it can cause the fermentation to slow down or stop. Usually brews stick at 1020 or so, i'd check for the next couple of days and see if it changes. If it doesn't up the temp a bit but to no more than 24deg and then using a sanitsed paddle or spoon gently stir the brew to rouse the yeast but take care not to introduce air into the brew.
There's a good sticky on the forum about what to do with a stuck brew, it's definately worth a read mate :thumb:

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[jonnymorris]

Thanks for the tip. I'll go and read up about stuck brews.

 

[jonnymorris]

Having read about stuck brews, I gave mine a stir and left it at c.20degC for 4 days (to date). It has only dropped from 1023 to 1020. It doesn't look like it's doing much.

I'm loathed to throw it out but am seriously contemplating doing so.

Somebody stop me :pray:

 

[eggman]

Don't chuck it out mate :shock: The worst case scenario is that it doesn't drop anymore and that just means you'll just have a weaker beer, it'll still be perfectly drinkable. Give a few more days yet, then if the reading has been the same over 3 days then just bottle ir keg it
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[jonnymorris]

Will do. Thanks for the calming hand.

 

[artiums_enteri]

I keep my stouts right at 61* using wyeast Irish ale yeast. Primary fermentation usually takes 2-3 weeks, but the activity in the airlock has ceased usually around 48 hours. Air lock activity is not a good way to judge fermentation. You really need to get a few gravity readings before determining if the beer is done. Also remember the yeast still has a lot of work to do after your FG has been hit, so leaving the beer in the fermenter for a month or so is a good thing.

 

[jonnymorris]

A month in the FV? For a kit? I'm not sure I have that much patience. I have been taking gravity readings and it's not moving as fast is I would normally expect, hence my concern.

Can you enlighten me on what the yeast is doing once FG has been met? I thought that was the end.

 

[artiums_enteri]

Once the FG has been hit the yeast realizes its depleted all of the preferred resources such as oxygen, malto dextrose, and some dextrines. The yeast will do its best to keep itself alive by beginning to burn its reserves. By doing this the yeast cells also begin eating diacytal (a chemical created by fermentation which leads to a buttery or butter popcorn flavor in the beer.) As well as acceydamehal which is again a fermentation byproduct which leads to a green apple flavor in the beer. By taking the yeast out of this environment too soon you run the risk of many off flavors, and a very green beer.

This goes for kits as well. Last time I checked the only difference between a kit and a recipe an extract brewer put together himself is the fact that the shop owner has recommended ingredients for you. It's still the same ingredients of extract, hops, and yeast.

 

[shearclass]

This goes for kits as well. Last time I checked the only difference between a kit and a recipe an extract brewer put together himself is the fact that the shop owner has recommended ingredients for you. It's still the same ingredients of extract, hops, and yeast.

In UK, a kit refers to the tins of hopped malt extract that come with a pack of yeast + instructions.

Just add water, or to the single tin kits, add water + sugar/spray malt.

 

[artiums_enteri]

Why is it not recommended to boil the malt extract for 60 minutes? How do you alleviate DMS, DDMOS, and other sulfides?

http://morebeer.com/search/103560/beerw ... s_Under_50¢_A_Beer

Those are the basic kits I'm used to.

 

[StrangeBrew]

Why is it not recommended to boil the malt extract for 60 minutes? How do you alleviate DMS, DDMOS, and other sulfides?
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Most UK kits the boiling and hopping was already done by the manufacturer and then reduced to a concentrate and canned.

So you just use 1 kilo sugar or BKE etc with a 1 tin kit ... or nothing at all with a 2 tin kit... Just empty into FV with a few pints of hot water to dissolve the contents then top up with water to 5 gallons and pitching temp. Sprinkle the yeast in and that's it !

Kits using dry malt extract or all grain are usually referred to as such ie: Extract kit, All grain kit, Ingredients kit / pack etc...

When people just say kit they generally mean the canned , no boil just add water and yeast kits.

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