Best all-in-one brewing system

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Brewzilla gen 4 is where it's at. A lot of improvements over the gen 3. Draining from the middle too! For about half the cost of a g40.
 
What I am saying is that the dispalyed temperature and the measured temperature of recirculated wort are not always the same... the should be as that is the reason to reciculate and maintain mash temperature.
If you are saying that your two temperatures always match then good luck for you , you must be one of the a few that this happens for.
Yes, that's what I'm saying. I (and other G30/G40 owners) seem to be 'lucky'* in that the displayed temperature and the wort temperature are the same (probably due to a PID controller). It seems to be the cheaper models without the PID suffer from the problem you and others describe (displayed/target temperature does not match the wort temperature).



* Or maybe it's not 'luck'. Maybe that's one of the reasons the GF G30/G40 is more expensive and you get what you pay for.
 
* Or maybe it's not 'luck'. Maybe that's one of the reasons the GF G30/G40 is more expensive and you get what you pay for.

I would agree you do get what you pay for but that does not negate thermodynamics.
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one thing that favours the G30 is the dead space is only 3.5L so mixing of that and the wort from the reciculation should be better.
 
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I was recently involved with klarstein that was reporting 2°c low. After that I now think any new machine ought to be checked & calibrated.
They all have to be checked and calibrated, my Hop Cat I had trouble with. I calibrated at a mashing temperature but getting up to boil at 90C it would announce, 'Boil' have never been able to fix it so set my boil temperature to 70 minutes allowing 10 minutes to reach 100C.
 
Brewzilla gen 4 is where it's at. A lot of improvements over the gen 3. Draining from the middle too! For about half the cost of a g40.
Strewth, there's a blast from the past, I only posted one of your videos on here last week, the element burnout. Maybe I should post your PID build here too.
 
Brewzilla gen 4 is where it's at. A lot of improvements over the gen 3. Draining from the middle too! For about half the cost of a g40.

Not here my friend the GF40 is €1355 and the BZ G4 L is €1028 so a bit cheaper but not earth shattering.
 
It doesn't matter what SVB one gets it is still going to come down to the competence of the user. It's fine to put bells and whistles on a unit, which in the end the consumer is paying over the odds for, it may make them feel confident and keep the economy buoyant but it doesn't make the user make better beer.
The mash has insulation properties, making it necessary to stir, and recirculating the wort will help remove the hot and cold spots. Even using a PID won't eliminate those hot and cold spots.
I brewed a Best Bitter today in the mash was the base malt and some dextrin malt I stirred for 10-15 minutes of the first 20 minutes and did an iodine test. Sure enough, the mash was complete.
1702432283893.jpeg

This was using Voyager Veloria Schooner malt, not the highest diastatic power from the Voyager range.

Nothing fancy used a mash tun with top and bottom plates down the bottom. Mash pH at 5.3
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Non-fermentable grain thrown in at mash-out, vorlauf until clear then boil.

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Another tip, lag the return pipe to help avoid loss to heat exchange.
1702433812715.jpeg
 
Incidentally, I like what this guy from Crisp Malts had to say. No matter what readers of this thread decide to buy, this is sound advice.

Mashing is the first, and arguably most important, step in brewing. Any failings at this stage will have an impact not just on the rest of the process, but also on the final beer itself. It’s a nightmare when that happens, particularly when you know it was avoidable.

Controlling the grist composition and particle size, then hydrating it with the correct amount of liquor at the right temperature will get the process off to a good start.

Attention to detail around time and temperature are critical – as are balancing the flows and keeping the mash bed afloat.

So here’s my advice for what it’s worth. Be as excited about every mash as you were about your first. Meticulously follow the processes and procedures. Turn to the science to inform your decisions. Keep that sense of awe and wonder. Never stop developing your understanding, skills and judgement: they are your craft.

Great mashes make great worts – which in turn create the bases for tasty beers, whatever style, colour, flavour and strength you are brewing
 
Of course the thermapen will know your altitude and compensate for that!
I check against known set points for my temp sensors.
Temperature is a fixed point, boiling points are not, they differ with altitude. Ice can be colder than 0degC.

What are these known points you use to calibrate against?
 
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I correct for altitude for the boiling point and use a water and ice slurry for Zero. We are only at 60 m so this makes little difference. I don't correct for atmospheric pressure variation.
Less than 1% error/variance is more than accurate for my brewing.
 
I correct for altitude for the boiling point and use a water and ice slurry for Zero. We are only at 60 m so this makes little difference. I don't correct for atmospheric pressure variation.
Less than 1% error/variance is more than accurate for my brewing.

So what is the issue using with a calibrated device that does not compensate for altitude? You had an issue with a this.

Also you cannot zero and span these devices so you only have 1 calibration point. It makes sense to calibrate your mash temp, calibrating your boiling point is pointless. You are either boiling or you are not.
 
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I was just using the zero and boil of water point to adjust the sensors in my All in one. At the same time checked the other thermometers.
But I know there is more variance in temperature across my system than altitude, air pressure ever effect. But checking and setting them all keeps my mind at ease. Even though it probably makes little difference.
 

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