Electric Brewery Relays?

[spsmike]

Evening Gents.

I am getting parts to upgrade my setup. I am going down the road of TheElectricBrewery.com but struggling to get my head round the relays. The 30a 240v coil DPDT relays that I can find look completely different and seem to have 8 connection points instead of what looks like 6. If anyone knows what ones I should buy I would be greatful. I will worry about how to wire them later.

Mike

 

[spsmike]

Here is the other ones..

 

[peebee]

It does take a while to translate some of the listed components to what's available here. But relays are often purchased separate from the base they plug into, and the bases probably fix to a "DIN" rail. You fix the bases and wire to these, and then plug the relay into the base.

I gave up trying to follow The Electric Brewery and eventually designed my own setup (with many more enhancements and expansion of the "safety interlock" setup - that can take a bit of getting your head around) all based about what I could get here. Often used "Duracool" relays collected from here: https://www.expertelectrical.co.uk/.

I published my circuits here: http://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=63149.

 

[spsmike]

Thanks for your reply that makes more sense, I need the correct fitting to plug the relay into. www.expertelectrical.co.uk doesn't appear to have anything as heavy as 30A bit I have an idea what to look for now. Well done on your build btw, looks good.

 

[peebee]

Ah... it's beginning to come back to me now. 30A switching on relays, I think that was another reason for going my own way.

I don't think you'll find them? I don't think you SHOULD find them!

Look up "contactors".

If you look at my wiring (together with wiring examples for Auber PIDs) you'll see I keep all the heavy (30A+) switching well away from anything you can touch. All the switches carry only control currents (totalling 1A max) or 12V.

I even split the control box; the box with all the lights and switches (1A and 12V circuits), and the "dangerous" one under the bench (6A and 32A circuits).

But even 1A gives you a good belt before the fuses trip! :electric:

 

[Grizzly299]

That relay you're looking at probably has an extra set of contacts that's all. Either an extra NO(normally open) or NC(Normally closed) contact.

NC-Usually refers to the contact being closed(has continuity) when the coil is in its de-energised state.

NO- Usually refers to the contact being open (has no continuity) when the coil is in its de-energised state.

That probably sounds counter intuitive to those that don't have an electrical background.

Just make sure you have the right contacts for what you are trying to achieve. Most of the circuitry for a brew pannel is probably just a mixture of "and gates" and "or gates".


If you want to run a sustained load of 30A I would recommend getting the next contactor size above that which is 40-45 amp. It shouldn't get as hot. Of course the coil will emit heat anyway.

So I'd say you're after. Two pole 40amp contactor with a 230/240v coil, both contacts normally open.

Make sure you space the contactors out too so that they don't overheat and to stop the magnetic fields from the coils interacting with each other.

This place will have pretty much anything you will ever need;

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?sra=oss&r=t&searchTerm=Contactor

 

[spsmike]

Thanks again gents, your help is appreciated.

 

[spsmike]

Still collecting parts, almost there. I bought the relays then decided I didn't think they were the best solution (wasted pennies there). Peebee I went with your suggestion of contactors, hopefully the pic will upload. Thanks, Mike.

 

[Gerryjo]

I take it that you are running an independent circuit to supply this setup?

Sent from my Hudl 2 using Tapatalk

 

[spsmike]

Yeah, it's Kal's design on theelectricbrewery.com. I will put a picture up when I finish the wiring but I think it's going to take me a few more days, looks a mess at the moment.