American Pale ale - will this work?

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Hobbins

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Hello All

I'm in the process of getting all my kit put together to start BIAB brewing. Boiler now put together and hop strainer in the process of being completed.

I've bought a some grain and hops from Hop and Grape and I've found a recipe and altered it to fit my boiler volume and grain and hops I could get my hands on. As this is my first AG brew I would be grateful of any comments suggestions before I apply hot water to grain

I have put together the following...

BIAB. American Pale Ale

OVERVIEW

Style: American Pale Ale
Name: Hobbins Ascension Ale
Yeast: White Labs California Ale Yeast WLP001
Original Gravity: 1.052
Total IBU’s: 30.8
Efficiency at End of Boil: 81%
Mash Length (mins): 90
Boil Length (mins): 90

VOLUMES/TEMPS

Vessel Volume: 30L
Water Required: 23.1L
Mash Temperature: 65C
Volume at End of Boil: 15.1L
Volume into Fermenter: 12.3L
Brew Length: 11.98L
Total Grain Bill: 3,113g

GRAINS – COLOURS – PERCENTAGES AND/OR WEIGHT

Grain 1: Pale Ale Malt, Maris Otter – 5 EBC – 76.9% or 2,391g
Grain 2: Munich Malt – 18 EBC – 15.4% or 479g
Grain 3: Cara Amber – 60 EBC – 7.8% or 243g

HOPS

Hop 1: Citra – 15AA% - 11.9g at 60 min
Hop 2: Citra – 15AA% - 15.1g at 20 min
Hop 3: Citra – 15AA% - 17.1g at 5 min

ADJUNCTS/MINERALS/FININGS

Adjunct 1: Pinch yeast nutrient at 10 min
Finings: ¼ tablet of Whirfloc at 10 min

Many thanks for your input
 
Experience leads me to believe that heavier additions at the start and end of boil are better than a hefty 30 min addition for smash/ipa type things. That way it's bitter with tonnes of aroma, equalling very obvious hops. For my IPA's, I aroma hop with 40-50g for 2 gallon and it's a proper punch!

I take it you are after a thin body rather than a malty one with the mash temp? And is the yeast nutrient neccessary? :whistle:

Just food for thought I guess. Looks great, hope you have some success with it! :cheers:
 
Thanks for the response.

I'm not altogether sure if the yeast nutrient is necessary? It's a recipe I've seen and tried to adapt to the ingredients that I've managed to pick up. I've not seen it used in many other recipes.

I'm not really wanting a thin body either. I want it to be more hoppy than malty but not thin. What temp would you suggest for the mash 66-67C? I'm new to this game so I'm open to suggestions.

I've got enough grain to do a couple of variations of the recipe so I can do some variations on the hop additions.
 
Insulation is yet to be sorted. I'm thinking of gluing 12mm thick closed cell foam mat to the outside of the bin, cut to shape and big enough clearances around the tap and where the elements go through the wall. This will hopefully mean less energy to get water up to temperature. Then using a home made bin sleeping bag to go over the whole thing for the mash. I make quilts and sleeping bags for backpacking so a little "bin bag" shouldn't present a problem.

I will go with your suggestion for 68c mash. Thank you.
 
I wouldn't bother " sticking " the insulation to the bin. Just wrap it around and fix the edges with some duck tape or similar. Easier to remove if you ever have to clean the bin up due to spillages etc, the insulation wrap can get moldy and rot. One layer is sufficient if you are going to use extra quilt etc, and it does help when you are heating the liquor up.
 
rich27500 said:
Depends how good your insulation is. I start all my BIAB at 68c and it works for me, especially with overnight mashes.

Yeah I tend to go about there, at the risk of sounding thick it tends to make quite an inoffensive beer body wise. up to 70c will give you a big malt profile which will overpower the hop, so the inbetween sounds right to me :cheers:

Nutrient probably isn't neccessary, considering most of my all grains start up after 4 hours with rehydrated yeast!
 
I've got a liquid yeast which I was going to get going 24 hours before the brew so I'll leave out the nutrient and go with the 68c mash.

Thanks for the advice about not sticking the foam mat to the bin. Sounds very sensible.

Bring on brew day!
 
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