dry hopping

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johnnyboy1965 said:
Your best waiting until fermentation is complete and then dry hop for 1 week

Been contemplating doing this with Saaz Hops and adding to a czech lager kit. Any thoughts :wha: :wha:
 
oldstout said:
johnnyboy1965 said:
Your best waiting until fermentation is complete and then dry hop for 1 week

Been contemplating doing this with Saaz Hops and adding to a czech lager kit. Any thoughts :wha: :wha:

Excellent choice of hop for a Czech Pilsner.

P.S. How spooky is that...Ive just this minute finished barreling a dry hopped Pilsner
 
johnnyboy1965 said:
oldstout said:
johnnyboy1965 said:
Your best waiting until fermentation is complete and then dry hop for 1 week

Been contemplating doing this with Saaz Hops and adding to a czech lager kit. Any thoughts :wha: :wha:

Excellent choice of hop for a Czech Pilsner.

P.S. How spooky is that...Ive just this minute finished barreling a dry hopped Pilsner


Looking for a Budwieser Budvar type clone - anywhere near? :wha:
 
I put the hops in a small mesh bag and add a couple of (sanitised) metal spoons to weigh the bag down, otherwise the bag just floats.

Another method is to make a hop tea in hot water and then pour into the FV.

I dry hop in the secondary fermenter - so once I have moved the beer off the yeast and all the muck.

My next Pale Ale I will add a fresh bag of hops to the keg when I rack the beer too so I'll get that super fresh whack of hops in every glass

I like it hoppy :D
 
Not stupid at all - it's a good question!
I add about 20g to a 20L batch.

But there's no science involved in that - I just think it looked like a decent amount :D
 
I made an extract IPA, an attempt at an SNPA recipe someone gave me, racked it off the sediment on monday after just over 2 weeks and added 35grams of hops in a muslin bag for dry hopping, 15 tettnanger and 20 cascade i think, the smell from the fv is amazing, its getting bottled and kegged tomorrow,and it tasted nice from the fv on monday and was crystal clear! :D
 
I was recommended 50g of Cascade hops in another post. I'm planning on dry hopping next brew but don't want to over-do it. What do you reckon, 20g vs 50g (40 pint brew)?
 
jonnymorris said:
I was recommended 50g of Cascade hops in another post. I'm planning on dry hopping next brew but don't want to over-do it. What do you reckon, 20g vs 50g (40 pint brew)?
I normally drop around 20g in.... :thumb:
It all depends on how fresh the hops are that you use.. ;)

BB
 
What's the risk of introducing an infection when dry hopping? Clearly, you can't sterilise the hops (unless you boil them up) so is it safe to just bung 'em in?
 
Hops have natural antiseptic qualities. I believe this is one of the reasons they were added to beer and also, one of the reasons IPA's survived the long journeys so well as the huge hop volume help keep the beer from going bad.

Also - by the time you are dry hopping, the beer contains alcohol and is not as vulnerable as it is when is fresh wort.
 
puravida said:
Hops have natural antiseptic qualities. I believe this is one of the reasons they were added to beer and also, one of the reasons IPA's survived the long journeys so well as the huge hop volume help keep the beer from going bad.

Also - by the time you are dry hopping, the beer contains alcohol and is not as vulnerable as it is when is fresh wort.
great info, cheers
 
The only hops I'd be reluctant to dry hop with are the ones from my garden, there could be a few bugs that survive the drying out process.

BB
 
I took the plunge and dry-hopped a Belgian Golden Ale last year. I used Tettnang, as I wanted that wheat-beer-esque feeling on the nose and it worked a treat.

I used 2oz in a 25l batch, added at the start of secondary and left in there for 2 months.

In fact I did it again tonight on the same beer. And it better work as we're serving it at our wedding! :shock:
 
I just bought 100g of Target hops (2010 harvest) from my local home brew shop for £7.50. I've since been on-line and found the same (2011 harvest) for £2.50. Even with £2.50 postage they're clearly cheaper on-line. The age may be irrelevant given they're vacuum packed but on-line wins both ways.

I wouldn't be able to recommend one type over another but you can read a description of their respective favours on most on-line homebrew shops I've since visited.
 

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