Fermzilla question (pressure related…sorry!)

[Weatherman]

Morning all

I am using a fermzilla for the first time. I have a pale in it. I realise this isn’t the best beer for this use but, it’s what I had and is simple/low cost

I have come to the conclusion through and awful lot of reading that pressure fermenting doesn’t speed it up, it’s the increase in temperature that pressure fermenting allows. (Happy to be corrected)

The temperature has been 22 degrees on CML American ale yeast and we are on day 5. So the temp is within the yeasts normal range so shouldn’t work quicker. The krauzen has dropped and fermentation has slowed (visually)

I haven’t taken a hydrometer reading yet as I can work out a way to do it. I think using a plato beer gun maybe my only option.

So, ordinarily I would non pressure ferment for 10-14 days . Is this still the same, I assume so?

The point of the post……: is all the above correct. What would you do next?

I have a small dry hop to do and then I need to dump trub and then cold crash prior to closed transfer to a corny.

Should I dry hop now? Give it 3 days, dump and cold crash? Should I increase pressure to finish carbonating prior to transfer? Should I increase the temperature to get the yeast to finish/clean up quicker?

If anyone has a definitive guide/you tube (despite it seeming everyone’s experimenting etc, that would be great)

All of the above are “firsts” including the kegging so it’s really just an exercise in working out how to do things. I will be using the ‘Zilla for lager and NEIPA going forward

Thanks for any points you have and apologies for another “pressure” question.

 

[Davegase]

You're right it's not the pressure that speeds up fermentation it is temperature.
You don't mention what pressure you've got your spunding valve set at.
Increasing pressure means you can ferment that's higher temperatures with reduced ester production.
If I were doing a standard pale I would start with little or no pressure at the appropriate temperature for the yeast. After 48 hours or so and providing fermentations got off to a good start then start increasing the pressure over the next few days. If you want to target your final carbonation level during fermentation, use a carbonation calculator to set the appropriate pressure for the temperature.
The information will apply whether carbonating during fermentation or forced carbonation post fermentation.
I would take a sample for a hydrometer reading degas it. Dry hop when you're happy with the gravity.
Cold crash when you're ready.
Personally I wouldn't bother dumping the trub unless you intend leaving it for longer than you would normally before kegging.
Any how you are on a learning curve, do what feels right for you. There will be many different opinions about what's right and wrong.
https://drhansbrewery.com/beercarbonationcalculator/

 

[Weatherman]

You're right it's not the pressure that speeds up fermentation it is temperature.
You don't mention what pressure you've got your spunding valve set at.
Increasing pressure means you can ferment that's higher temperatures with reduced ester production.
If I were doing a standard pale I would start with little or no pressure at the appropriate temperature for the yeast. After 48 hours or so and providing fermentations got off to a good start then start increasing the pressure over the next few days. If you want to target your final carbonation level during fermentation, use a carbonation calculator to set the appropriate pressure for the temperature.
The information will apply whether carbonating during fermentation or forced carbonation post fermentation.
I would take a sample for a hydrometer reading degas it. Dry hop when you're happy with the gravity.
Cold crash when you're ready.
Personally I wouldn't bother dumping the trub unless you intend leaving it for longer than you would normally before kegging.
Any how you are on a learning curve, do what feels right for you. There will be many different opinions about what's right and wrong.
https://drhansbrewery.com/beercarbonationcalculator/

Thanks for the reply to a rambling post

I left the spunding valve open for the first 24 and then set it at 10 psi. I left it for a week and then dumped the trub. The gravity was 1.005 at this point so pretty much done.

I removed the collection pot, cleaned and refitted. Then I have cooled to 5 degrees and opened the lower butterfly again to collect the rest of the trub after CO purging.

The beer is now absorbing CO2 as I keep having to top up to 10 psi. Obviously the cooling reduces the pressure too. I don’t want to leave the bottle connected as I am away for the week and if it’s leaking will loose it all.

My plan is to leave it until Thurs/fri and then transfer to the keg.

I’m not sure what it will taste like but the process has been exactly what I wanted in that it’s allowed me to practise and think about how I am going to do different tasks. I’m sure what ever
comes out will be drinkable and if not, I’ve not wasted weeks on it

 

[Davegase]

10 PSI at 5°C is about right for a pale ale.

 

[Weatherman]

10 PSI at 5°C is about right for a pale ale.

Thanks for the confirmation. I had a look on brew father and it’s 10. Something so rounded down.

When I transfer to the keg, should I reduce the pressure in the fermzilla or charge the corny to similar and let a little out with the PRV.

My current thoughts are reduce to 2psi in the fermzilla and then repressurise to 10 when back in the keg to make sure it’s done.

What pressure do you need to reduce to serve at? I’m thinking about 5? I have a kegland pluto beer gun.

 

[Davegase]

Thanks for the confirmation. I had a look on brew father and it’s 10. Something so rounded down.

When I transfer to the keg, should I reduce the pressure in the fermzilla or charge the corny to similar and let a little out with the PRV.

My current thoughts are reduce to 2psi in the fermzilla and then repressurise to 10 when back in the keg to make sure it’s done.

What pressure do you need to reduce to serve at? I’m thinking about 5? I have a kegland pluto beer gun.

There's no need to reduce the pressure in your fermzilla.
I use 2 methods for kegging,
The first, which I prefer uses less gas but is done using gravity. You'll need one suitable length of line with two liquid posts and another with two gas posts.
I equalise the pressure when I'm kegging.
I do this by pressurizing the keg 1 or 2 psi above the fermzilla.
I place the fermzilla higher than the keg. Then connect gas post to gas post on the fermzilla and the keg, that equalises the pressure without releasing pressure from the fermzilla. Then connect liquid to liquid posts. Then a quick lift on the pressure relief on the keg will start transfer. Gravity does the rest. It usually takes about 25 minutes for 23l.

The second method uses gas and a spunding valve.
Put your spunding valve on the keg with the pressure set high. Purge and pressurize the keg to the same pressure as the fermzilla.
Now connect your gas to the fermzilla then connect the two liquid posts. You can now use the spunding valve to control the speed of transfer.

As for serving pressure, I usually start at about 10 PSI. First poor will probably be foamy. I haven't used the kegland pluto
beer gun.

 

[Weatherman]

There's no need to reduce the pressure in your fermzilla.
I use 2 methods for kegging,
The first, which I prefer uses less gas but is done using gravity. You'll need one suitable length of line with two liquid posts and another with two gas posts.
I equalise the pressure when I'm kegging.
I do this by pressurizing the keg 1 or 2 psi above the fermzilla.
I place the fermzilla higher than the keg. Then connect gas post to gas post on the fermzilla and the keg, that equalises the pressure without releasing pressure from the fermzilla. Then connect liquid to liquid posts. Then a quick lift on the pressure relief on the keg will start transfer. Gravity does the rest. It usually takes about 25 minutes for 23l.

The second method uses gas and a spunding valve.
Put your spunding valve on the keg with the pressure set high. Purge and pressurize the keg to the same pressure as the fermzilla.
Now connect your gas to the fermzilla then connect the two liquid posts. You can now use the spanding valve to control the speed of transfer.

As for serving pressure, I usually start at about 10 PSI. First poor will probably be foamy. I haven't used the kegland pluto
beer gun.

Again, many thanks.

I am enjoying the experimentation and just having a good think before connecting/disconnecting etc. I did connect gas to the fermzilla beer out as the spunding valve was on the gas post. Thankfully, I didn’t blow the dip tube off!

 

[Davegase]

Again, many thanks.

I am enjoying the experimentation and just having a good think before connecting/disconnecting etc. I did connect gas to the fermzilla beer out as the spunding valve was on the gas post. Thankfully, I didn’t blow the dip tube off!

Been there done that got the t-shirt

 

[Davegase]

Keglands flow stopper is a handy device if you've got more beer in the fermenter then the capacity of your keg.

 

[Weatherman]

Keglands flow stopper is a handy device if you've got more beer in the fermenter then the capacity of your keg.

One of these was delivered on Saturday….along with a duo fit beer filling gun thingy. Can’t use the spunding valve control method though if that’s fitted can I? But, I think the Fermentor is under 19l at the minute and I’m going to try kegging some and bottling some this weekend

Like I said, this batch is just for experience so, if I get very little packaged it doesn’t matter.

 

[Davegase]

I've used the flow stopper in both my methods of transfer.
If you're using the spunding valve method, you just need to fit the spunding valve after the flow stopper and get it reasonably close to vertical.

 

[Weatherman]

I've used the flow stopper in both my methods of transfer.
If you're using the spunding valve method, you just need to fit the spunding valve after the flow stopper and get it reasonably close to vertical.

Right oh, I’ll have a go.

 

[gavp1979]

If you have cold crashed your fermenter you should also get condensation as the keg fills up showing you the level, this does rely on you staying with the keg but you would probably do that anyway

 

[borischarlton]

This may help,
Plus
You can put your keg on weighing scales to measure how much beer you are transferring.

 

[RoomWithABrew]

I use a picnic tap on short beer line to take samples.
Also I fill the collection jar with beer / foam after emptying and cleaning.
This reduces addition of oxygen each time you drop trub/ yeast.

 

[Weatherman]

Thanks for the tips

All went pretty well. The beer is very drinkable now. I have left it connected to the gas to finish carbonation but am pretty pleased with it now.