bobsbeer
Well-Known Member
I was planning on using separate buttons as the screen I've ordered is a 4 x 64 one. I have some mini buttons to use. Never thought of using the serial port. Maybe try that tomorrow when I have some time.
Flow Controller
- Thread starter stevela
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I tested this today. When I press the reset button and the relay loses power for a second it opens the solenoid. This is something I'm going to have to look into when I get a min.
Is there an easy way of getting the LCD to display "Target hit" etc and then pause for say 5 seconds then revert to the beginning? That way I wouldn't have to reset each time.
I got rather wet. As did my arduino.
It seems to be overshooting by 600ml. I didn't test it on mains, it was on my garden tap at half power so when I get a proper supply into my brewery i'll check for sure. But... if 600ml is standard then I'll amend the code to start at 600ml and count up from there never going below 600ml. If I were to calibrate it to compensate for this then at different total volumes it would be out by quite a bit so I think it's best to get an average overshoot (from the solenoid closing) and add this to the figure.
Otherwise it was pretty cool and when it's boxed up will be really good.
I assume I can keep the same LCD but not cut out the buttons from the enclosure and either solder new buttons in parallel with the old buttons or just re-code it to target a different pin and put a button and pull up resistor on it?
Is there an easy way of getting the LCD to display "Target hit" etc and then pause for say 5 seconds then revert to the beginning? That way I wouldn't have to reset each time.
I got rather wet. As did my arduino.
It seems to be overshooting by 600ml. I didn't test it on mains, it was on my garden tap at half power so when I get a proper supply into my brewery i'll check for sure. But... if 600ml is standard then I'll amend the code to start at 600ml and count up from there never going below 600ml. If I were to calibrate it to compensate for this then at different total volumes it would be out by quite a bit so I think it's best to get an average overshoot (from the solenoid closing) and add this to the figure.
Otherwise it was pretty cool and when it's boxed up will be really good.
I assume I can keep the same LCD but not cut out the buttons from the enclosure and either solder new buttons in parallel with the old buttons or just re-code it to target a different pin and put a button and pull up resistor on it?
stevela
Regular.
Belter said:
Glad to hear you got it running. I managed to drench myself by taking the mains off at the tap end under pressure, not doing that again!
Is your flow controller in front or behind of the solenoid? Interested if that makes a difference to an overrun.
No reason you can't keep the same LCD. Just remove the code for reading those buttons (or find out which wires supply those to the board).
In order to reset I think you would just have to put a delay(5000) in and set the current_volume back to 0, this should break you out of the loop. Maybe worth clearing the LCD.
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Belter said:
Sure there is a hang() wait() or delay() command
along the lines of hang(5000); the number representing milliseconds..
then with judicouse conditional returns u should be able to back step, probably a global boolean DONE flag could help make it simple as inserting a while not done clause in the working loop..
so u set DONE = True after your hang() and auto drop out, think it cld be wait(); in the arduino C
Belter said:
pretty much..
u may beat steve to finishing the project
stevela
Regular.
Better yet rather than a delay might be better to map it to another button. That way you can leave some form of alarm/notification going until you acknowledge it.
stevela
Regular.
Fil said:u may beat steve to finishing the project
I'm ok with this :)
This is my current thought on layout:
Thought it would be best to have the in and out flow vertical so it can drain completely, either with hose barbs or cam and groove fittings. A 7 pin XLR lead should give me plenty of 12v power lines to cover all components.
Yeah select would do the job nicely :)
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Looking good steve. my take would be slightly different tho, id rather encapsulate all the psu's in the box and keep the pipework and valve/flow meter external, connected with the xlr umbilical, mounted on a board/stand, or even box back with pipeclips should you ever want to ensure its dry inside for storage it would be more accessible.
stevela
Regular.
Either way works, I was just thinking how messy it could potentially look with a lead going from the flow controller and additional power to the solenoid which also needs to be connected to the relay.
Need to find some stainless 90 deg 1/2" connectors and I can start measuring for a box.
Thinking it might be an idea to put the USB connector on the side of the case as well, save opening it to update any software.
Need to find some stainless 90 deg 1/2" connectors and I can start measuring for a box.
Thinking it might be an idea to put the USB connector on the side of the case as well, save opening it to update any software.
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get a usb cable for laptops on a retracting reel. plug it into the board and notch a hole under the lid seal for the usb plug, and just pull it out as u need it
dont bother with bluetooth serial coms u cant reset or upload easily.. yup been there and found that dead end..
dont bother with bluetooth serial coms u cant reset or upload easily.. yup been there and found that dead end..
stevela
Regular.
I was thinking just mount one of these on the outside and internally leave it connected using a short USB lead (have a spare one from the arduino which was too small to be any use when programming).
http://www.neutrik.com/en/multimedia/usb/nausb-w-b
http://www.neutrik.com/en/multimedia/usb/nausb-w-b
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Even better, - bet that cost as much as an arduino board
stevela
Regular.
Most things in this project cost more than an Arduino :)
£6.28 +vat and any delivery from cpc farnell
Steve have you got a box lined up for this yet?
I see on your diagram that you only have one power supply (xlr, which I assume now is USB?). Do you plan on having more? I'm still stuck with three at the minute.
I assume if you give the relay a 5v power supply to keep it separate you could use a single 12v power supply For the Arduino and solenoid?
Steve have you got a box lined up for this yet?
I see on your diagram that you only have one power supply (xlr, which I assume now is USB?). Do you plan on having more? I'm still stuck with three at the minute.
I assume if you give the relay a 5v power supply to keep it separate you could use a single 12v power supply For the Arduino and solenoid?
stevela
Regular.
Belter said:
No box yet I've got my eye on a few steel enclosures though.
I'm only planning one XLR connection I figured a 5 or 7 pin XLR will give me enough 12v lines to power the arduino, solenoid and relay.
USB would be a separate connection purely for updating the software.
stevela
Regular.
Current thought on power cabling:
Using CAT5 for the XLR lead will let me run that many separate 12 connections with no issue.
For a box I'm thinking one for these (although maybe not that large)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Customisable- ... 9991429%26
Using CAT5 for the XLR lead will let me run that many separate 12 connections with no issue.
For a box I'm thinking one for these (although maybe not that large)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Customisable- ... 9991429%26
I see they do other sizes as well in the description. Surely it will need to be at least that big to house your power supply?
Do you know how many amps cat5 can carry? I'd at you'd be well short of your 10A requirement. If you used it to power your Arduino etc you'd need to put in control fuses.
Do you know how many amps cat5 can carry? I'd at you'd be well short of your 10A requirement. If you used it to power your Arduino etc you'd need to put in control fuses.
stevela
Regular.
Belter said:
Yeah noticed the other sizes, need to layout the components flat and see what size I will need (also got my eye on a few auctions).
I'm planning on the power supply being completely separate to remove any potential interactions between 240v and leaking water hence the need for an XLR lead. I need to build a control panel at some point with PIDs etc so thought I would keep the PSU in there (to begin with it can stay hidden under my worktop).
I've not checked the rating on the CAT5 (assume it will be at least 500ma for Power Over Ethernet applications, can check on it later) but I'm currently using it for the 12v supply to the solenoid and relay which is the biggest load and it hasn't melted yet :)
It won't catch on fire until a fault happens. It will only draw the design current which as you say is a few milliamps here and there. But if water goes across the terminals it could draw the full 10A which could cause a fire. Probably never happen but I'll he putting a control fuse in my setup.
You can buy 1.5mm YY cable (grey flex) with pretty much as many cores as you like from an electrical wholesaler for not much money. Or if you cover the postage I may be able to get you a couple meters.
You can buy 1.5mm YY cable (grey flex) with pretty much as many cores as you like from an electrical wholesaler for not much money. Or if you cover the postage I may be able to get you a couple meters.
