Gozdawa Czech Pils Kit

[globe11123]

Hey guys I'm doing a Czech pilsner. The SG came to 1035 which I thought was quite low? 1 tin and 1kg of muntons beer enchancer. Is this about right?

Never used this brand before.

Going to be dry hopping for the first time, bought some Saaz pellets. Not too sure how much to add as yet. Does anyone have any guidance for a 23L kit?

Looking forward to seeing how this comes out as the first larger i did was a fail!

Happy brewing

 

[globe11123]

Anyone else used this brand before?

 

[terrym]

If your kit can contained 1.7kg LME and the enhancer 50/50 spray malt/dextrose and you brewed to 23 litres the OG will have been about 1.038. Any less LME in the can and any less dextrose/more spray malt in the 1kg enhancer will lower the SG. Sometimes the OG of made up kits is artificially low because the contents of the FV have not been properly mixed.

 

[globe11123]

If your kit can contained 1.7kg LME and the enhancer 50/50 spray malt/dextrose and you brewed to 23 litres the OG will have been about 1.038. Any less LME in the can and any less dextrose/more spray malt in the 1kg enhancer will lower the SG. Sometimes the OG of made up kits is artificially low because the contents of the FV have not been properly mixed.

Thanks for clearing that up, it was a 1.7KG can with 1KG of enhancer. I saw something earlier about not mixing up the ingredients as much could cause this. I definitely dissolved the ingredients enough and gave it a real good stir after adding the yeast into it.

Real odd kit, have to bloom the yeast in warm water before adding to the wort then mix for 2 minutes. Hopefully it turns out slightly more alcoholic than what the current values tell me.

Haven't seen many reviews of this kit but a lot of them weren't happy with the turn out of the beer.

With it fermenting at a cool temperature, of 14-18C for 16 days, what would the FG be around?

 

[terrym]

Thanks for clearing that up, it was a 1.7KG can with 1KG of enhancer. I saw something earlier about not mixing up the ingredients as much could cause this. I definitely dissolved the ingredients enough and gave it a real good stir after adding the yeast into it.

Real odd kit, have to bloom the yeast in warm water before adding to the wort then mix for 2 minutes. Hopefully it turns out slightly more alcoholic than what the current values tell me.

Haven't seen many reviews of this kit but a lot of them weren't happy with the turn out of the beer.

With it fermenting at a cool temperature, of 14-18C for 16 days, what would the FG be around?

The FG can depend on several things but with a fairly low OG, you should expect 1.010 or better below. But as it's a one can kit you will have probably been supplied with the minimum amount of yeast, typically 7g, and if you ferment low there is a possibility it will stall as it nears the end, due to insufficient yeast. So my suggestion is to ferment as low as you can to keep the fermentation going but after 4 or 5 days check the SG and then every 2 days or so and when it gets to 1.018 start to slowly increase the temperature to keep the fermentation going, which you should do anyway at the end for the diacetyl rest. And I also suggest you add the hops when its finished irrespective of what the instructions tell you.

 

[globe11123]

The FG can depend on several things but with a fairly low OG, you should expect 1.010 or better below. But as it's a one can kit you will have probably been supplied with the minimum amount of yeast, typically 7g, and if you ferment low there is a possibility it will stall as it nears the end, due to insufficient yeast. So my suggestion is to ferment as low as you can to keep the fermentation going but after 4 or 5 days check the SG and then every 2 days or so and when it gets to 1.018 start to slowly increase the temperature to keep the fermentation going, which you should do anyway at the end for the diacetyl rest. And I also suggest you add the hops when its finished irrespective of what the instructions tell you.

Only thing im worried about is that i haven't got anywhere to meet the 14-18 temp requirement, coolest place i have is probably 19-20. Outside in the summer house would be too warm in the day currently and colder in the night.

The hops didn't come with the kit, i bought this separate so i don't really know when or how much to add.

 

[terrym]

Only thing im worried about is that i haven't got anywhere to meet the 14-18 temp requirement, coolest place i have is probably 19-20. Outside in the summer house would be too warm in the day currently and colder in the night.

The hops didn't come with the kit, i bought this separate so i don't really know when or how much to add.

Then you simply brew in the coldest place you have which is not subject to large temperature variations. As far as the dry hop, I suggest you add 25g of your Saaz, when the fermentation is complete, and leave it for four to five days before bottling (assuming you are completely satisfied it has finished)

 

[globe11123]

Then you simply brew in the coldest place you have which is not subject to large temperature variations. As far as the dry hop, I suggest you add 25g of your Saaz, when the fermentation is complete, and leave it for four to five days before bottling (assuming you are completely satisfied it has finished)

Thanks for the advice. I've also got some Cascade hops but I'm not sure that would pair with the Saaz, might be worth experimenting?

 

[terrym]

Stay with the Saaz. That suits the style. Keep your Cascade for a Pale Ale.

 

[globe11123]

Stay with the Saaz. That suits the style. Keep your Cascade for a Pale Ale.

Just bottled it. FG managed to get to 1004 according to my hydrometer.

I think i made a mistake with the hops though, i didn't weigh the bag down because i didn't have anything so it was floating on top of the liquid. It sunk when it first went it.

The beer didn't really have any hoppy-ness when i tried it, will this develop or is it because of my mistake?

 

[BrewMeHappy]

A hop bag can mean that the hops don't get to fully do their thing in the beer. It can be a bit of a blessing when it comes to bottling though as they can keep blocking up your syphon tube or tap depending on what you have, unless you use a few tricks to avoid it from happening.

The other issue is if it's the first time you've done the kit you don't have any base to compare a unhopped one against. I'm sure it will be good though as it's beer

 

[globe11123]

A hop bag can mean that the hops don't get to fully do their thing in the beer. It can be a bit of a blessing when it comes to bottling though as they can keep blocking up your syphon tube or tap depending on what you have, unless you use a few tricks to avoid it from happening.

The other issue is if it's the first time you've done the kit you don't have any base to compare a unhopped one against. I'm sure it will be good though as it's beer

I transfer the beer to a second vessel for batch priming so it shouldn't affect it too much?

Could throw them in loose next time to see the difference?

 

[terrym]

I transfer the beer to a second vessel for batch priming so it shouldn't affect it too much?

Could throw them in loose next time to see the difference?

If you are transferring your beer to another vessel for batch priming avoid getting air into it if you can.
If you added 25g of Saaz that should be enough to enhance the aroma and flavour of your lager. But its a lager you have not an IPA, so there should not really be a pronounced hoppiness. If you want that you should instead be brewing IPAs in my opinion.
And using some SS cutlery to weigh down your hop bag is fine. I use 4 SS soup spoons and that works.
But if you chuck hop pellets in as they are they break up into tiny pieces and you can struggle to keep the bits going forward. Whole hops might be better but the take up is not as good as pellets.

 

[Horners]

If you are transferring your beer to another vessel for batch priming avoid getting air into it if you can.
If you added 25g of Saaz that should be enough to enhance the aroma and flavour of your lager. But its a lager you have not an IPA, so there should not really be a pronounced hoppiness. If you want that you should instead be brewing IPAs in my opinion.
And using some SS cutlery to weigh down your hop bag is fine. I use 4 SS soup spoons and that works.
But if you chuck hop pellets in as they are they break up into tiny pieces and you can struggle to keep the bits going forward. Whole hops might be better but the take up is not as good as pellets.

Our cutlery drawer looking quite depleted as I always forget to retrieve from the wet hoppy mess prior to jetisoning

 

[terrym]

Our cutlery drawer looking quite depleted as I always forget to retrieve from the wet hoppy mess prior to jetisoning

Oops. Although I sometimes find cutlery in compost from the composter.

 

[globe11123]

Cheers for the responses. Will use some SS spoons going forward, looking to find a recipe for an IPA with some different hops.

I've just cracked open the pilsner. Its actually quite decent, good alcohol content, not too much of a hoppy taste. There is a distinct bitter after taste though, it did taste a bit bitter when i mixed all the ingredients up so might be the brand? or its the hops.

Few more weeks and it might age better

 

[Flan]

Cheers for the responses. Will use some SS spoons going forward, looking to find a recipe for an IPA with some different hops.

I've just cracked open the pilsner. Its actually quite decent, good alcohol content, not too much of a hoppy taste. There is a distinct bitter after taste though, it did taste a bit bitter when i mixed all the ingredients up so might be the brand? or its the hops.

Few more weeks and it might age better

Hi globe, just wondering how did your lager do after a few weeks conditioning.

 

[globe11123]

Hi globe, just wondering how did your lager do after a few weeks conditioning.

Haven't tried one for awhile. The taste was still bitter last time. I will crack one open for you tonight, its probably been a month or so since i last had one.