Heat Exchange Plate Chiller Info please.

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snail59

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I'm still green and inexperienced at Brewing and all that goes with it. I'm making plans for a new updated fixed position brewery and would like to use a Plate chiller. Plan is to fix it in line between the boiler and FV. Now what I would like to know is will it be affected by the break material or should this all be filtered out by the hop bed and strainer and left behind in the boiler or is there going to be a problem with the plate chiller getting blocked. Thanks for any advice in advance.
 
You would probably need an in line filter before the wort gets in to your plate chiller. We had the same problem with a solar pump i borrowed a few weeks ago :D
 
As long as your hop filter is good enough you don't need any additional filters ;)

One benefit of using the plate chillers is that you can if required transfer under gravity into the FV . . . but you do need to sanitise it well (20 Minutes in the pressure cooker does it for me).

Break materiel . . . yes this will transfer until the hops form the filter bed . . . and sometimes even after. If you are worried about it . . . just run it off into a winemakers fermenter seal the lid and leave it for 12 hours for all the break to settle. . . then transfer to your Beer Fermenter, and leave behind the Grunge . . . You loose a good few litres of wort this way . . . so I make more than I need, then tip the break mater into an demijohn and allow it to settle again . . . Then I siphon off the wort to use as a starter for the next brew.

On the other hand . . . you could just forget about it completely which is what I do on the big rig :D
 
Thanks Mark/Tony big help that. Im planning a 4 tier graverty tower system and want to use the plate chiller so I can maximise the useage of space by not having to have top access to the boiler to insert a coil chiller. Puts my mind at ease somewhat thanks. :thumb:
 
BarnsleyBrewer said:
Is it true that yeast likes a bit of break to nibble on? :hmm:

BB
I think it needs some form of nitrogen and hot break is I think mainly nitrogenous proteins. You won't get it all out of solution though and using a plate chiller you'll get the cold break in the FV if you want it.
 
As long as your hop filter is good enough you don't need any additional filters
I have to disagree with Tony on this and have lost a 'sealed' plate chiller as a result.

The first thing to ask yourself is, can I afford to be wrong? If yes ignore the following.

If no, can you really rely on the hop bed to guarantee your plate chiller won't get blocked if hops get through ?....that's down to chance of the boil and how the hops settle.

I would absolutely not use a sealed plate chiller without the use of a pre filter, as I said, I've lost one due to hops getting in and not coming out.

It's recommended to fit a filter of no greater than 0.5mm to the inlet of a PHE, due to the clearances between the plates.

Ignore at your peril, I can only pass on what I've learnt at the cost of my PHE.

If in doubt buy a GPHE which you can take apart when hops get in.
 
I would say that depends on how easily perturbed you are ev :grin:
I love my GPHE, wouldn't be without it, though it is total overkill for my system :lol:

EDIT, I must point out I don't like to leave things to chance, to the point of extremity some times. I know plenty of folk who 'get away' with using PHE's as Tony says, it's just not for me.
 
That's just it V, I'm not perturbed in the slightest.
I meant at the thought of using a PHE ev ;)
I built it out of sheer idle curiosity, and was amazed when it actualy worked so well; so I'm sticking with it
I loved my CFC, so simple to clean and use. If only I could make one using ss (as copper doesn't like many cleaning solutions) I don't think I'd look back.
Having said that, when I can chill 60ltrs to pitching in 4-10 minutes (depending on ambient tap water temp) I know why I changed my boiler design to incorporate my GPHE :cool:
 
Vossy1 said:
Having said that, when I can chill 60ltrs to pitching in 4-10 minutes (depending on ambient tap water temp) I know why I changed my boiler design to incorporate my GPHE :cool:
Power to your elbow Vossy, I can't fault what you say!
I just perversely refuse to go SS. :eek:
I use copper pipe, lead solder, bleach and plastic!
Until recently I swore by gravity and simplicity, I now have a form of HERMS, a pump and two PIDs. :oops: :oops:
I suppose I shouldn't have joined. :D
 
Vossy1 said:
Aleman said:
As long as your hop filter is good enough you don't need any additional filters
I have to disagree with Tony on this and have lost a 'sealed' plate chiller as a result.

<Snip>

It's recommended to fit a filter of no greater than 0.5mm to the inlet of a PHE, due to the clearances between the plates.
My hop filter has is made from #30 mesh which has a nominal aperture of 567um . .which is why I said as long as the hop filter is good enough . . . I don't consider a slotted or drilled manifold to be anywhere near good enough. I must admit that I am considering dropping down to#40 Mesh which has a nominal aperture size of 411um

Vossy1 said:
If in doubt buy a GPHE which you can take apart when hops get in.
You want to sell your V? :lol:
 

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