HOWTO - Build a Picnic Cooler MT

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hairybiker

Landlord.
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To make a cooler MT. :thumb:

Parts needed:-
24L + picnic cooler
15mm Tank connector - with or without centre limit removed
some 15mm copper pipe
15mm lever shutoff valve
sheet of silicon (food grade) - I used a poundland baking dish with a flat bottom.

Tools needed:-
various sizes of hole saws (I used a 20mm and a 44mm ones)
drill & drill bit
craft knife.
paper,ruler & marker
Some PTFE tape
some spanners/monkey wrench, mole grips etc.
Optional - some Locktite thread lock.

Start by measuring the following :-
diameter of EXTERNAL of the tank connector - both thread and the flange
internal width of the cooler

You will need a hole saw of the size of the TC thread (either the same or as close as possible no bigger then 2mm larger), and one ~5-10mm larger than the flange.

Using your measurement of the cooler inside mark the CENTRE about 1" up from the bottom with a line.
Using you measurement of the EXTERNAL size of the TC measure UP 0.5* that + 5mm (so if it is 38mm measure 24mm up) the 5mm is to allow us to fit the washer on the back easily.
(remember measure twice cut once)
Using that place the marks cross drill a pilot hole all the way through the box.
DSCF0331.jpg

Fit the larger hole saw and from the OUTSIDE cut through the outside material and insulation - be careful not to cut the inside wall.
DSCF0332.jpg

Fit the smaller hole saw and drill through from the INSIDE, to get a cleaner cut on the inside.

Clean up the holes, removing any burrs using the craft knife.
You now have a two stage hole in the cooler and can move to the tank connector.
Mark round the TC on the silicon sheet and use it to cut out a "washer", remove the centre as well so you end up with a ring of silicon, you can make it a bit larger than the TC on the outside to make it easier to handle.
DSCF0325.jpg

(Image shows my <not very> neat silicon "washers", one on inside one on outside.
Disassemble the TC and fit the silicon washer to the flange,
Wrap PTFE tape round the thread in the same direction the nut fill fit on.
(put a little thread lock on the threads near the flange but not within 5mm of it.)
DSCF0329.jpg

put it in the cooler from the inside with the thread poking out the front
thread the silicon then the normal washer & BIG nut on to the thread and tighten using the spanners. etc.
DSCF0337.jpg

Now we move to the tap.
cut a short bit of copper pipe to go between the tap and the TC, fit nuts and olives to both ends of it (nuts on the inside olives on the outside)
fit the tap to the pipe with the lever opening away from it, so it ends up pointing to where the liquor will run to, and tighten up using the spanners.
DSCF0339.jpg

Finally fit the pipe to the TC and tighten holding the inside of the TC so it doesn't rotate.
DSCF0340.jpg

(Image shows complete tap fitted)
Now partially fill with waster and check for leaks.
You can now connect you pump/WHY to the output of the tap, when you brew.

And it is as easy as that :cheers:

DSCF0343.jpg

I haven't included details on making a manifold as there are plenty of details around on them, just fit them to the inside of the TC, I just press fit mine into the TC using a length of 15mm pipe.

(New version with pic's as requested)
Let me know what you think
 
Depends on your brew length/OG. I usually brew to 5Gal and 1040/50 and can use a 24l fine. This one was a 32L which allows me to go to higher gravity beers or more beer if I want to.
A 24L will hold up to 7Kg of grain with a stiff mash :cheers:
 
Nice guide.
As a matter of interest, what is the quality of the lid like in that coolbox? The 32l one I have is good but the lid id hollow and pretty thin so has to be covered with a number of towels when mashing.
 
Yeah this one came with a Large top, thin and high. But I still have the old one from my last MT which was flat and has an air space gap in it. But I tend to use silver foil sandwiched between the top and the lid anyway.

You could put some polystyrene in the top covered with foil and glued in place.
 
Another small tip worth remembering is the bottom of the mash tun too. We all stick extra insulation on the lid to stop excess heat loss (as we all know heat rises) but dont forget the bottom of the Tun too - i lost quite a bit of heat using mine until i sussed it was from the bottom. So now i use a four fold blanket undermine or you could use the sleeping mat stuff.
Now i dont lose any heat at all on mashing. :thumb:
 
Interesting, it may be worth opening the cooler up before you start and checking on the insulation layer. The one I used here has a polystyrene "shell" all they way round the inner to keep the heat in. Some of the cheaper ones may need extra insulation between the inner and outer. Some tinfoil/heat shielding glued to the inner before you start will stop the heat loss on the cheaper coolers.

This one was rated at "12 hours" on the side. Used it yesterday for the first time and lost ~1deg over 90 min.
 
I have no experience with this sort of thing, following your guide made it a breeze. Cheers!
 

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