Polypin Question

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Den,
Never used a pump, on a pin (got one for other purposes )................do you just leave it all connected up for a week or two?
If so this is better than I thought :D , ...........Mrs S. will not like it, she gets a bit :evil: when we have had a do and a few days later when people come to the front door they see a beer pump clamped to the breakfast bar in the kitchen. :evil: :evil: :lol:
S
 
Den, am I better off removing the check valve between pump and poly or does it not matter? Are there any advantages or disadvantages of having the valve?
 
Earlier in the thread I had mentioned how I had a check valve inline on my hand pump which was recommended as it stopped the beer flowing back towards the barrel or poly and also helped maintain co2 in the barrel or poly. But as you say you connect direct from poly to pump . Just wondered if the were any advantages of keeping it or get rid.
 
No probs, guess I'll suck it and see!
Apparently they are essential when using a hand pump with a barrel or keg but I'm not sure about polypins, obviously you have no problems without one!
 
dennisking said:
Yes keep it connected from when I start to use it until its empty.
:thumb:
:hmm: Sorted the hand pump is comming down from the attic...........might have to put the pin in the brewery fridge, which is under STC100 control and fit up the pump next to it, just to keep Mrs. S. on side. :D
S
 
I had to special order one from my LHBS but it came in today. So I plan to put the Landlord clone in there and have a go at real ale styled beer. I'm still undecided about how to handle the beer post ferment. This thread has given me some great insights to problems I've seen with my English ales: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/britis ... ts-221817/

That thread is over 50 pages long! Essentially, it seems like we Americans leave our beers on the yeast too long and they clean up a lot of the esters and other fermentation by-products that we love in an English ale. So the theory is you crash cool it as soon as the gravity is stable and/or it has reached the flavor profile you want. Now, most of these guys are kegging their beers and force carbing so they don't care if it's completely done fermenting.

Obviously, if I'm going into the polypin, I can't be overcarbing or I'm asking for trouble. So I pretty much have to wait until the gravity is stable and then crash cool to stop the yeast from continuing to clean up. Once that's done, I'll have to warm to my basement temp so I can lightly carbonate it in the pin and then drop it to my 12C serving temp.

Admittedly, this will be an experiment. I anticipate that this will take a few times to get dialed in. But like the brewers in that thread above, my UK beers tend to just taste overly clean and one dimensional. I fermented the Landlord at 20-22C and I used Wyeast 1469 which is supposed to be Timothy Taylor's yeast. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 
Sound like you have got the bit between your teeth on this one P. :D
Never bothered to crash cool myself in 90 brews but can't fault the principle, will be giving it a try myself. Some finings in the fermenter seems to do it for me, if I'm in a hurry.
I used to syphon off the brew after 48 hours or so into a new fermenter, which probably was benificial but too much hassle usually. ;)
I now work with a conical for most brews so it is easy to open the bottom tap, to save yeast or just get rid of it. :)
Usually put a spot of sugar in the pins, shake a bit in the early stages and let off gas in they are getting tight.
As for "warming up the basement" how about a bit of local heat, a temp controlled cupboard or a heat mat controlled by a STC1000 with the probe stuff with tape to a pin. KISS :lol:
These days I keep my fermenting temperature below 20 degrees ;)
Bet you can't wait to get "the result" :thumb:
S
 
Thanks S. Yes I'm really looking forward to it. As I said, it'll probably take me more than a couple of times to get this dialed in to where I'm happy with it. I generally keep my fermentations to no more than 64F/17.7C. But I like the fruity esters that I get from warmer temps. So I'm going to try with this yeast and see what it does.

Thanks for your help mate.
 
The price looks good Crisp, but can they be re-used and do you need the special closing tool. :?
S
 
Den, my polypins turned up today.
They have the screw on tap and also like a clear sealed screw on cap.
Are they for when you want to store you brew for a long time. So you use either the tap OR the cap???
Also how the hell do you fold the boxes!!!!! Origami is not the word!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
MattPark said:
Den, my polypins turned up today.
They have the screw on tap and also like a clear sealed screw on cap.
Are they for when you want to store you brew for a long time. So you use either the tap OR the cap???
Also how the hell do you fold the boxes!!!!! Origami is not the word!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I never bother with the cardboard boxes, find them a pain in the ****. Not sure what you mean by a tap and a cap, my pins only have a screw on tap so I wonder if yours are the same. Any chance of a photo.
 
MattPark said:
Den, my polypins turned up today.
They have the screw on tap and also like a clear sealed screw on cap.
Are they for when you want to store you brew for a long time. So you use either the tap OR the cap???
Also how the hell do you fold the boxes!!!!! Origami is not the word!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I threw the caps away :lol: . I would not want to cap a pin and leave it for a "long time" , rather leave it with the tap upward and let of a bit of pressure when necessary ;)
Like Den said, folding boxes, :lol: its not to hard, if you really want to and think about it, but.......... :)
S
P.S. Just "had a go" at one of my, "up and comming pins", they are a thing of the future. ;) :lol:
 

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