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chthon

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I am busy designing a brew with a single mash and a double boil, effectively brewing two different beers from a single mash. Since this is for summer, these would be (relatively) low alcohol beers, one a saison and the other one I would like to derive from the wort would be a best bitter.
  • I don't have pale ale malt, only light Maris Otter (3,5 EBC). Would it help for the bitter if I would add a bit of Munich or Aroma 50/Amber malt? Crystal malt of 20 EBC would be used for 10%.
  • I have MJ M79/M36 Burton Union/Liberty Bell ale with an attenuation of about 78% (based upon previous brews using them), and M07/M42 British Ale/New World Strong Ale with an attenuation of about 85% (based upon previous brews using them). Which one would you recommend?
  • I can use a combination of Challenger, Fuggles and Goldings hops. I would use Challenger for bittering, but how much other hops and at what times would you use them?
  • And would you dry hop or use a hop tea afterwards? I ask because the hops I have currently lying around definitely introduce hop creep.
The saison doesn't matter that much, since it would be diluted from the main mash, and I know the MJ M27/M29 goes deep. I already did several brews with it.
 
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*Pale ale malt is fine to make bitter out of, I regularly just use Pale malt for bitter. When I looked into how to mimic MO without having to buy it so I could just use my sack of pale malt. The recommendation was to add some munich. I cant remember how much but iirc foxbat adds 10% to his very popular bitter (the recipe is somewhere in the completed recipes section).

*Liberty bell all day. I made a bitter with M36 and no late hopping at all and it was one of the best bitters I've made, absolutely perfect for my tastes. I've heard MJ M07/M42 may well just be notty.

* A bittering addition plus 10min is good and basic. I often do 10min plus whirlpool. My current beer in the FV (a blonde ale rather than a bitter as i've used Calicommon yeast instead of boir or LB like I might normally do on similar a grist/hopping schedule)is a bittering addition with addition Fuggles/EKG 20g(for 10L) each at 5 min. Out of the FV it tastes delicious
 
Reading your ingredients, I too thought of Foxbat's fuggle duck recipe (that I must try someday soon).

Challenger for bittering, Fuggles at 10mins and Goldings for aroma?
 
I am busy designing a brew with a single mash and a double boil, effectively brewing two different beers from a single mash. Since this is for summer, these would be (relatively) low alcohol beers, one a saison and the other one I would like to derive from the wort would be a best bitter.
  • I don't have pale ale malt, only light Maris Otter (3,5 EBC). Would it help for the bitter if I would add a bit of Munich or Aroma 50/Amber malt? Crystal malt of 20 EBC would be used for 10%.
  • I have MJ M79/M36 Burton Union/Liberty Bell ale with an attenuation of about 78% (based upon previous brews using them), and M07/M42 British Ale/New World Strong Ale with an attenuation of about 85% (based upon previous brews using them). Which one would you recommend?
  • I can use a combination of Challenger, Fuggles and Goldings hops. I would use Challenger for bittering, but how much other hops and at what times would you use them?
  • And would you dry hop or use a hop tea afterwards? I ask because the hops I have currently lying around definitely introduce hop creep.
The saison doesn't matter that much, since it would be diluted from the main mash, and I know the MJ M27/M29 goes deep. I already did several brews with it.
Light MO is just MO which has been kilned lighter to give a colour more like pilsner malt. Both of them are authentic pale ale malts. You might need to use a bit more of the pale MO , though. I'd stick a bit of caramalt in there to increase the body, which I think is much the same as the 20ebc crystal malt you mention above. I don't think I'd bother with the Munich or Amber, If you want to colour it, use a bit of dark crystal or just the merest touch of chocolate.
Challenger for bittering, Fuggles at 10mins and Goldings for aroma?
cushyno's spot on with the hops.
 
Light MO is just MO which has been kilned lighter to give a colour more like pilsner malt. Both of them are authentic pale ale malts. You might need to use a bit more of the pale MO , though. I'd stick a bit of caramalt in there to increase the body, which I think is much the same as the 20ebc crystal malt you mention above. I don't think I'd bother with the Munich or Amber, If you want to colour it, use a bit of dark crystal or just the merest touch of chocolate.

cushyno's spot on with the hops.
The Munich or Aroma was more for adjusting taste than colour.
 
Bottled today. All of my beers smell nice, but this one smelled even better. Unfortunately I hadn't a bit of beer in surplus to taste, so that will be deferred to somewhere the end of next week.

I bottled for 1,5 volumes of CO2. Would this be OK? I actually had a starting gravity of 1.052, and a FG of 1.008, which brings my strength to 5,9%, not including priming.
 
I often bottle my bitter to that level and it's fine, always a bit disconcerting when poured as it seems so flat and doesn't generate much head but it's nice to drink. I experimented with 1.75 vol this time and it's similar, maybe slightly better for me.
 
So, this turned out more like a mild it seems, not really hoppy. The smell at bottling time was terrific, but after carbonation and conditioning, the smell has disappeared. It is not a bad beer, and doesn't taste watery, but I had more hopes for it. A simple beer that is refreshing, but I have made better ones.
 
I love a bit of feedback. Shame it didn't quite hit the nail on the head, but thanks for sharing.
 

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