Best pressure kegs and why

The Homebrew Forum

Help Support The Homebrew Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

bootneck

Active Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
75
Reaction score
11
Location
Kidderminster
I have two identical pressure barrels fitted with pin type caps and looking to get a third.
What is the best to go for , king keg? Top or bottom top ?
Advise welcome.
 
I have two bog standard run of the mill ones with bottom tap and pin type caps. Had a few problems with pressure leaking from them but soon sorted it by putting more Vaseline round the cap and not over tightening the cap.
I also have a king keg top tap. Great because you can stand it on the floor and draw off your pints. Have also had problems with this too the float inside seems to get stuck and twice with one brew I have had to unscrew the cap to get the float back in the liquid and re gas.
If I had to choose I would stick with the bottom tap ones as both have their faults but I don't think the extra expense is worth it. Just my opinion mind.
Regards.
cib
 
Cornelius kegs are stainless steel and excellent. You really need a big bottle of CO2 and a regulator as you can force carbonate the beer.

You also need a tap.

You can buy new ones from themaltmiller.co.uk or second hand often on the forum or from the bay.

The other option is a Sankey style keg which I think are better and you can get them from http://shop.crusaderkegsandcasks.com
 
cask is best said:
I have two bog standard run of the mill ones with bottom tap and pin type caps. Had a few problems with pressure leaking from them but soon sorted it by putting more Vaseline round the cap and not over tightening the cap.
I also have a king keg top tap. Great because you can stand it on the floor and draw off your pints. Have also had problems with this too the float inside seems to get stuck and twice with one brew I have had to unscrew the cap to get the float back in the liquid and re gas.
If I had to choose I would stick with the bottom tap ones as both have their faults but I don't think the extra expense is worth it. Just my opinion mind.
Regards.
cib
Thanks for the advise
 
Wilkos PB has always done it for me, don't see the need for spending extra money on something that does the same job, but that's just my opinion.

:)
 
Andysbrew said:
Wilkos PB has always done it for me, don't see the need for spending extra money on something that does the same job, but that's just my opinion.

:)

How much do you spend on gas bulbs and how long does it take to carbonate the keg?

I have 2 cornies and I spend £17 every 6 months for a fire extinguisher refill. If I'm at a push I can take beer from the FV to serving in about 24 hours.

Set up cost is of course much higher, the cornies are at least £60 new, an FE is £35 reconditioned, gas line and disconnects are about £10 and a tap and beer line/disconnect is about £10. Regulator is about £25.
 
Runwell-Steve said:
Cornelius kegs are stainless steel and excellent. You really need a big bottle of CO2 and a regulator as you can force carbonate the beer.

You also need a tap.

You can buy new ones from themaltmiller.co.uk or second hand often on the forum or from the bay.

The other option is a Sankey style keg which I think are better and you can get them from http://shop.crusaderkegsandcasks.com

I have cornies, but if I was starting again would be seriously looking at the crusaders just because the 2nd hand stock of cornies is dieing off fast and prices are reflecting this.
 
Don't faff with gas bulbs, in the long run an s30 hambleton bard cylinder will pay for itself, think mine was £23.99 and £4.99 for a refill, not had to use it yet as not even a quarter of the way down my beer.
 
Hawks said:
I have cornies, but if I was starting again would be seriously looking at the crusaders just because the 2nd hand stock of cornies is dieing off fast and prices are reflecting this.

But the Italian "AEB" clones are becoming more readily available at around £60-80.
 
PaulCa said:
Hawks said:
I have cornies, but if I was starting again would be seriously looking at the crusaders just because the 2nd hand stock of cornies is dieing off fast and prices are reflecting this.

But the Italian "AEB" clones are becoming more readily available at around £60-80.

I just remember getting three for that, so still seems pricey - although it's reasonable based on the prices today I agree :thumb:

I would go crusader due to the different sizes still I think, but at least there are still options out there. :drunk:
 
this might seem a stupid question but I haven't a clue on any of these and the crusader kegs do look good but what else would I need to run the and how much would the bits cost thanks
 
To use a Crusader sankey keg you will need a connector and they cost around £15 second hand. They last for years so don't worry about second hand. They are the same as you would see in a pub. After that you will need a co2 cylinder and a regulator. The regulators are around £25 and the gas is a regular pub type bottle. If you go cornie you would still need the gas and regulator. The Crusader kegs come in various sizes from 20lt slim to 30-50lt euro size. They cost about the same as cornies. The most popular size for home brewers are the 20lt and 30lt. It just depends on the size of brew you normally do. The advantage of the sankey kegs is that the valves are less prone to leaking and the gas in/beer out are all part of the connector. The down side if you can call it that is you can't get your hand in there. But using the correct cleaning regime you shouldn't need to get your hand in there anyway. Priming can be done by batch sugar priming or force carbed just the same as a cornie. I have been using my sankey kegs for nearly a year now and have never looked back. In fact I need more. :lol:
 
bobsbeer said:
To use a Crusader sankey keg you will need a connector and they cost around £15 second hand. They last for years so don't worry about second hand. They are the same as you would see in a pub. After that you will need a co2 cylinder and a regulator. The regulators are around £25 and the gas is a regular pub type bottle. If you go cornie you would still need the gas and regulator. The Crusader kegs come in various sizes from 20lt slim to 30-50lt euro size. They cost about the same as cornies. The most popular size for home brewers are the 20lt and 30lt. It just depends on the size of brew you normally do. The advantage of the sankey kegs is that the valves are less prone to leaking and the gas in/beer out are all part of the connector. The down side if you can call it that is you can't get your hand in there. But using the correct cleaning regime you shouldn't need to get your hand in there anyway. Priming can be done by batch sugar priming or force carbed just the same as a cornie. I have been using my sankey kegs for nearly a year now and have never looked back. In fact I need more. :lol:

Bob, the cheapness of the sankey really seems to make sense, but I can't imagine how you go about cleaning them without some sort of caustic hot wash like I'm about to attempt on my cask.

What do you use?
 
I flush in PBW solution and leave to dissolve any crud. Then flush with clean water. To sanitise I use a videne solution and flush through with the spear in place. Then drain with the spear out. I have tried filling with both spear in and out. It is easy to see the level with the spear out so can stop my syphon before it overflows. PBW will dissolve any crud so no scrubbing is required. You can actually see quite well into the keg by shining a torch in there.
 
On the subject of the CO2 I get a pub sized cylinder for £18 per cylinder. You just need to ask around for the best places to find then
 
boab42stout said:
I think you could use one of these to clean the sankey kegs
http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/aca ... ytyTYXOROk
III will try mine when i get my new keg delivered

That should work. Don't forget that there isn't that much crud in a kegged beer as opposed to a FV so you don't need to go berserk. And as it's in a sealed container it doesn't dry out the same. The main thing is ensuring you shift the yeast cake at the bottom. But that seems to shift with no problem with a shake and a soak of PBW.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top