Campden tablets... did I go over the top?

[link64]

I racked off yesterday and made a mistake of allowing air to get into the beer (the siphon was splashing into the 2nd FV) in fear that I may have oxidised the beer, I added 4 campden tablets, the destructions said 1 per gallon but I thought 5 would be a bit overkill. At the moment all fermentation is (as far as I can tell) complete, I'm just dry hopping, so i'm not worried about killing/stunning yeast.

Question is, have I used too many? I tried a tiny sip of the brew today and it tastes a little... soapy? could that be to do with hops or have I just poisoned myself?

 

[Clint]

You added 4 Campden tablets to your beer? You should have added 1 to 5 gallons of water BEFORE you started...and used that to brew your beer....it tastes soapy. ...not a Boddingtons clone is it....?

 

[link64]

You added 4 Campden tablets to your beer? You should have added 1 to 5 gallons of water BEFORE you started...and used that to brew your beer....it tastes soapy. ...not a Boddingtons clone is it....?

It said 1 per gallon and I'd read people saying you should add one when racking off to prevent oxidation... Whoops!

May invest in a meter to test the so2 levels...

Edit: Scratch that idea, theyre a tad more than I'd expected :lol:
Edit 2: Not a boddingtons clone, it's Evil Dog IPA

 

[shepp]

You never put campden in wort or beer, you only put half a tablet in 5 gallons of brewing water.

 

[link64]

You never put campden in wort or beer, you only put half a tablet in 5 gallons of brewing water.

Poop, I was sure I read somewhere you could use when racking off...


Best bet for removing it now? splash it around and rack off a few times to let it do its job on oxygen and depleat it?

 

[simon12]

Its used when racking off in wine making to avoid oxidation, its not needed in beer making as the remaining yeast (which is killed in wine when its stabilised) can deal with any oxygen. It is used to remove chlorine from tap water in beer making in small quantities as mentioned in above posts.

 

[link64]

Its used when racking off in wine making to avoid oxidation, its not needed in beer making as the remaining yeast (which is killed in wine when its stabilised) can deal with any oxygen. It is used to remove chlorine from tap water in beer making in small quantities as mentioned in above posts.

Oh well! You live and learn I guess! Thanks for clarifying all!:thumb:

 

[link64]

Sorry to post again about this!

I've had a look today (was ready to bin the batch) and it seems like it's still giving off a little CO2 - the lid has swollen up and the airlock is on the edge of bubbling. Does this mean I should keep hold of it and see how it turns out?

Will the SO2 naturally depleat if I leave it to bubble or would it be safer to bin it and cut my losses? it works out at less than 1 tablet per gallon (0.8 to be exact) which is less than you'd put in wine, so one would assume the PPM levels are within safe limits for consumption?

 

[TheQuokka]

I'd age it and give it a go. If you can pick up a second hand barrel that would be best, but you would be surprised what a bit of time can do to most beers. Sulphite is actually a natural byproduct of all yeast to some extent, and ironically can add a sweet flavour if oxidised. One of the benefits of cellaring of bottled wine is for it to react with tannins, so all good.

 

[terrym]

'Oxidation' is almost one of the homebrewers myths, often read about but rarely experienced. Provided you are sensible about transferring beer from from vessel to vessel and don't splash unnecessarily it is very unlikely that you will get oxidation, if ever.
As for dumping a brew you only do that at the end of a brewing cycle i.e. when the beer has fully conditioned and it's judged to be undrinkable or substandard , unless there is something obviously wrong with it earlier, and certainly not because of a perceived problem that might have occurred early on.

 

[link64]

Thanks both, I have a pressure barrel, I'll transfer it after the dry hopping is complete (probably tomorrow) and prime it then let it sit for a few weeks before sampling.

I assume priming it will still work as i'm seeing the CO2 continue to rise now.. hopefully it only stunned the yeast

 

[terrym]

I have a pressure barrel, I'll transfer it after the dry hopping is complete (probably tomorrow) and prime it then let it sit for a few weeks before sampling.

If you have a PB it is always a good idea to sample a few day after you sealed it up to see if it is building a pressure and therefore leak tight, rather than leave it weeks to find you have a leak and your beer is flat.

 

[link64]

If you have a PB it is always a good idea to sample a few day after you sealed it up to see if it is building a pressure and therefore leak tight, rather than leave it weeks to find you have a leak and your beer is flat.

Sound advice, thanks!:thumb: