Cold crashing and bottle conditioning

[CarronC]

I want to try cold crashing for a clearer beer (Belgian blonde).
Are there any disadvantages to cold crashing?
And won't it kill/flocculate my yeast too much, making bottle conditioning with priming sugar impossible/inefficient?

What are your opinions?

 

[Caramel Ox]

It will take longer to carbonate, also you need to pay more attention to the storage temperature as it will be starting very cold. If you’re beer is high abv that will also slow down carbonation.

 

[Alastair70]

It won’t have a noticeable effect, there is always enough yeast in suspension to bottle condition. I’ve bottle conditioned lagers that have had 4 weeks at 1C successfully in the past.

 

[Alastair70]

By way of illustration; rye IPA, 5 days cold crash with gelatin at day 3. I bottled 4 prior to kegging the rest.
Conditioned 2 weeks at room temp, it’s been in the fridge for 4 weeks now.

 

[NormanHurst]

Short answer: you'll be fine

 

[Nucbrewer]

I bottled my last two batches at 7c the mango pale ale has eventually carbed up but the milk stout is definitely under carbed. If it doesn’t change I’m going to reprime with some more sugar and CBC-1 yeast

 

[Birdsnestbrewery]

Cold crashing alone doesn't have any negative effect on bottle conditioning as far as I can tell,. I would like to know whether fining after crashing might have an effect though. Or does enough yeast escape the finings to remain for conditioning?

 

[Nucbrewer]

The amount of absorbed co2 depends on temperature I think I under primed the stout, I used the brewers friend batch priming calculator which has been good in the past apart from one batch of IPA which was far too lively.

 

[foxy]

Cold crashing alone doesn't have any negative effect on bottle conditioning as far as I can tell,. I would like to know whether fining after crashing might have an effect though. Or does enough yeast escape the finings to remain for conditioning?

If you are going to use gelatin finings it is best to do it cold during the cold crash, though going down to 0 degrees even a little colder should drop everything out of suspension without finings, bar the yeast, the yeast will still be there.

The amount of absorbed co2 depends on temperature I think I under primed the stout, I used the brewers friend batch priming calculator which has been good in the past apart from one batch of IPA which was far too lively.

The Brewers Friend calculator is the Lallemand calculator and pretty accurate. I don't know if the movement of the beer causes any removal if it does it is very little I give mine a decent stir in the bottling bucket, being careful not to splash and doesn't seem to make much difference to priming with the temperature calculator. The scales used is very important, my wife bought some new ones I didn't realise that it was 5 gram not 1 gram calibration ended up, not over carbed but more carbonation than I generally like.
I just use the little hop scales now for weighing out the sugar. Doesn't take much to go over or under.

 

[Nucbrewer]

The Brewers Friend calculator is the Lallemand calculator and pretty accurate. I don't know if the movement of the beer causes any removal if it does it is very little I give mine a decent stir in the bottling bucket, being careful not to splash and doesn't seem to make much difference to priming with the temperature calculator. The scales used is very important, my wife bought some new ones I didn't realise that it was 5 gram not 1 gram calibration ended up, not over carbed but more carbonation than I generally like.
I just use the little hop scales now for weighing out the sugar. Doesn't take much to go over or under.

I will add some accurate hop scales to my growing upgrade shopping list.

 

[evil.soup]

Slight thread revival, but didn't see the need to start a new one for my question.

I currently have a lager bottle conditioning and that was cold crashed for the sake of clarity and it seemed to improve the haze.

I currently have a stout bubbling away and I'm not concerned with clarity, it should black as night, so no issues there. What I am wondering is, should I still cold crash to reduce the amount of sediment that ends up in the bottle or is there no point?