Crash Chill?

[Mark Winter]

So, I've brewed a Mangrove Jacks Helles and it's extremely cloudy. I am going to put it into Perfect Draft kegs with priming sugar to carbonate. What I'm not sure is wether to crash chill it for a few days to clear, rack it and mix in the priming sugar. Or to rack, prime, carbonate for two weeks and then chill to clear.

The beer in these sits in a bag that I can flush out and sterilise before use but can't see. I'm thinking the less debris the better for future cleaning. What would you recommend?

 

[Alastair70]

I’m not sure how the PerfectDraught system works, but as rule of thumb always package the clearest beer that you can. I have just bottled an Impy stout that I cold crashed for 5 days. Partly because it was a very mucky pup at the end of fermentation, and partly because I was too hungover on Sunday to be able look at anything beer related. And yes, it still will carbonate after a lengthy cold crash, 5 days is nothing.
So option 1; cold crash, prime, keg.

 

[Mark Winter]

I’m not sure how the PerfectDraught system works, but as rule of thumb always package the clearest beer that you can. I have just bottled an Impy stout that I cold crashed for 5 days. Partly because it was a very mucky pup at the end of fermentation, and partly because I was too hungover on Sunday to be able look at anything beer related. And yes, it still will carbonate after a lengthy cold crash, 5 days is nothing.
So option 1; cold crash, prime, keg.

That's what I was thinking. The kit instructions want it bottled at this point but imagine a thick layer of trub would be left behind after carbing.

 

[Alastair70]

That's what I was thinking. The kit instructions want it bottled at this point but imagine a thick layer of trub would be left behind after carbing.

Exactly. The kit instructions push you to turn round brews quickly, but all beers will benefit from a bit more time in the FV and a bit more conditioning time. The trick is to brew twice as often as you thought you needed to and then you’ll always have a few different beers coming through at any one time.

 

[Mark Winter]

Exactly. The kit instructions push you to turn round brews quickly, but all beers will benefit from a bit more time in the FV and a bit more conditioning time. The trick is to brew twice as often as you thought you needed to and then you’ll always have a few different beers coming through at any one time.

Well that decided it. I've the brewing fridge turned down as low as it will go. I'll check in three or four days and see how it's going. Cheers.

 

[Mark Winter]

So I turned the fridge down as low as it would go and have created a large beer slush puppy
If there's a way to ruin a batch of beer I'll find it. I've turn the fridge back up to its middle setting in the hope it's going to thaw out.

Have I damaged the beer and killed the yeast I need for priming?

 

[MashBag]

Doubt it. Try one bottle first.
Not ruined you could always add some at priming.

 

[Mark Winter]

Doubt it. Try one bottle first.
Not ruined you could always add some at priming.

Read on an other forum that you can add Champagne yeast if this happens. Would you need a whole packet or only a pinch? I'll be batch priming 23 litres.

 

[MashBag]

May as well chuck the whole pack in. Unless you have a vac pac. In which case you might consider ½