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That's only 5 days to carbonate in the bottles.
If you use at least 1 plastic bottle, you can squeeze it every few days to see if it is building up pressure.
Doesn't need to be a pet bottle, I reside an old 500ml pop bottle for the purpose.
(that is also your first taster bottle, so it's not sat in a clear plastic bottle for months)
Thanks.
So next time longer to carbonate in warm before popping in to the cold garage?
 
You described your mash, now tell us about the boil. It is the boil that is the precursor that determines the clarity of the beer initially.
Did you boil for 60 minutes? Did you add kettle finings? Did you let the trub settle before your transfer to the fermenter, you say you did but it doesn't look like it. What you have is roughly a 2% ABV beer that looks like kangaroo tail soup, is it really worth fussing over?
We have all had to tip beers I have tipped plenty, even a few weeks ago tipped 21 litres due to my negligence.
 
You described your mash, now tell us about the boil. It is the boil that is the precursor that determines the clarity of the beer initially.
Did you boil for 60 minutes? Did you add kettle finings? Did you let the trub settle before your transfer to the fermenter, you say you did but it doesn't look like it. What you have is roughly a 2% ABV beer that looks like kangaroo tail soup, is it really worth fussing over?
We have all had to tip beers I have tipped plenty, even a few weeks ago tipped 21 litres due to my negligence.

Wow there's a lot to unpack there.

45 min boils do work certainly IME.

TRUB has nothing to do with finished beer clarify. And I abuse that sooo much, after boil, overnight chill, pitch in kettle. 7 days later bottling clear.

"We have all had to tip beers" Don't drag me into this, I have never tipped a beer😁 and thankyou for "kangaroo tail soup" LMAO 👍🏻👍🏻
 
You described your mash, now tell us about the boil. It is the boil that is the precursor that determines the clarity of the beer initially.
Did you boil for 60 minutes? Did you add kettle finings? Did you let the trub settle before your transfer to the fermenter, you say you did but it doesn't look like it. What you have is roughly a 2% ABV beer that looks like kangaroo tail soup, is it really worth fussing over?
We have all had to tip beers I have tipped plenty, even a few weeks ago tipped 21 litres due to my negligence.
Many thanks. Sorry I have taken so long to reply.
The boil: started at 1145, 1st hops added.
At noon, temp was 105* - rolling boil. Gas turned off briefly.
At 1230 boil turned off and second hops added.
At 1245 - off the cooker and into ice filled sink.
Maybe I hadn't controlled the boil enough; my notes say ' next time watch the boil, keep on min gas setting for a rolling boil'.

Cooled to 20* with ice changes in sink by 1335
5 liters exactly
SG was 1030 or 1032

My notes also say I left behind trub.

Many thanks for your thoughts.

Matt
 
Many thanks. Sorry I have taken so long to reply.
The boil: started at 1145, 1st hops added.
At noon, temp was 105* - rolling boil. Gas turned off briefly.
At 1230 boil turned off and second hops added.
At 1245 - off the cooker and into ice filled sink.
Maybe I hadn't controlled the boil enough; my notes say ' next time watch the boil, keep on min gas setting for a rolling boil'.

Cooled to 20* with ice changes in sink by 1335
5 liters exactly
SG was 1030 or 1032

My notes also say I left behind trub.

Many thanks for your thoughts.

Matt
It appears you left out kettle finings which are an important addition. Boiling produces large clumps of what is hot break, in the hot break are proteins and nitrogen which interact with carbohydrates and polyphenols. The kettle finings help enormously in clumping everything that you don't want in the fermenter.
The clarity in your photos shows that the proteins didn't clump together and sink as they should they are even in the hydrometer sample tube which could also indicate that your gravity reading could be lower than the 1,030-2 OG.
If after the boil you had left it cooling even for another hour the undesirable elements that you want to avoid going into the fermenter would drop out. Clear wort into the fermenter transforms to clear, clean wort out. I don't know if you did but always take your gravity reading from the fermenter, not the kettle.
IMG_0606.JPG
 
It appears you left out kettle finings which are an important addition. Boiling produces large clumps of what is hot break, in the hot break are proteins and nitrogen which interact with carbohydrates and polyphenols. The kettle finings help enormously in clumping everything that you don't want in the fermenter.
The clarity in your photos shows that the proteins didn't clump together and sink as they should they are even in the hydrometer sample tube which could also indicate that your gravity reading could be lower than the 1,030-2 OG.
If after the boil you had left it cooling even for another hour the undesirable elements that you want to avoid going into the fermenter would drop out. Clear wort into the fermenter transforms to clear, clean wort out. I don't know if you did but always take your gravity reading from the fermenter, not the kettle.
View attachment 95643
Again, much appreciated comments.
Yes, I did not add Irish moss / finings. The recipe I followed didn't suggest them ( it was a grain kit I purchased from eBay ).
My second all grain, when I used finings, looks pretty clear in the bottles I have just checked. They are not yet ready to drink but I am much more positive.
So that's a few lessons learned. Irish Moss to be added 10/15 mins before end of boil.

Cheers

Matt
 
Again, much appreciated comments.
Yes, I did not add Irish moss / finings. The recipe I followed didn't suggest them ( it was a grain kit I purchased from eBay ).
My second all grain, when I used finings, looks pretty clear in the bottles I have just checked. They are not yet ready to drink but I am much more positive.
So that's a few lessons learned. Irish Moss to be added 10/15 mins before end of boil.

Cheers

Matt
For any all-grain recipe, you are going to be better off using kettle finings just to make life easier, I have forgotten them a couple of times and it can make transfer to a fermenter that much more difficult.
 
I was under the impression that protofloc was refined Irish moss, or at least used the same chemical principles.
I started using Irish moss & still do if I do a smaller batch.
In a 25l batch I'll use protofloc (or even 1/2 a protofloc), but trying to divide a protofloc for smaller batches is not as easy as adjusting the teaspoon or Irish moss.
 

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