Making a DIY all in one brewing system?

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Fitting the heating elements isn't a problem.. you can get bulkhead fittings that should do the trick. But you really really want low density elements to prevent scorching. That will make your clean up alot easier and beer taste nicer.
 
Fitting the heating elements isn't a problem.. you can get bulkhead fittings that should do the trick. But you really really want low density elements to prevent scorching. That will make your clean up alot easier and beer taste nicer.

That's a good point kettle elements only work well if you turn them down for mashing.
 
... But you really really want low density elements to prevent scorching. ...
I usually cringe when I see this. I think it might be something to do with abusing cheap kettle elements? Elements designed for restricted space in water only. The Americans I think exposed us to the idea of "low density elements", but by their definition the elements I use would be a no-no - 6KW and certainly not "low density", but big enough it seems to be lower density than those cheap kettle elements (I've never suffered "burning" from these, industrial, elements).

While our home-brewed elements continue to fail to have good guidance on "wattage per cm", or whatever, I think you've just got to be cautious and not lock yourself to expensive, probably foreign, elements that just happen to display the (meaningless in this country) words of "low density". Else you could end up paying too much for an inappropriate element. (Not that I'd ever think of kettle elements being appropriate ... but they are cheap!).
 
Does anyone have any advice on how I can make this happen?
To help you can work out how many watts you need for your brews using this calculation:

Volume in liters * 4200 / power of element in watts = seconds per degree Celsius

In terms of mounting your element/s, I suggest you have a look at these Weldless 1" BSP Mounting Kits. I used them on my 50l vessels (40cm dia) and they sealed perfectly.

You'll also find weldless inlets and outlets as well as straight and round elements in the Brewpi store, and some which come with a Weldless Tri-clamp mount which makes cleaning a little easier.
 
All-in-ones have a bottom drain to get every drop of wort out, have you considered making one of those? Angel Homebrew sell a kit which uses a skin-fitting from a boat, not as flush as a welded hole in a real all-in-one but getting close.
 
have to say they do look the business. Good find.
They are rather nice! Still, I spent hours shaping "saddle washers" for my boilers so I should put ideas of owning them out me 'ead - I don't need them. I'm a sucker for bits of "made-for-purpose" tack yet need very little of it. Still, there's all sorts of stuff available now which wasn't there only 6-7 years ago! They're even selling elements with "wattage density" descriptions contrary to what I was saying earlier:
While our home-brewed elements continue to fail to have good guidance on "wattage per cm", or whatever, I think you've just got to be cautious ...
("...cm³...", a bit of sloppiness by me). So, my unrated industrial elements might well fall into the "ultra-low wattage density" category, and I wasn't aware (maybe drop the "ultra" bit?). And I'm still not really, as there is seemingly no clear definition of high, low, ultra-low, etc. So, can't the vendors just put what you want to hear? Someone must know 'cos it's what many home-brewers are taking note of and spending their hard-earned cash on?



All-in-ones have a bottom drain to get every drop of wort out ...
Not all of them, ask anyone with a Grainfather G30. But the Grainfather G40 or G70 does. But you can't get every drop out 'cos the pumps hang on to a few 10s of mls. Bottom draining does discourage the precarious tilting up of boilers though.
 
I use 100 litre brewpot, the 2 x 3kw (brewbuilder's) fit with rubber/silickon washers either side, I used to use kettle elements no problem fitting them either. (I think the diameter of the boiler is 500mm) As regards the power I had problems using off a ring main, needed to come off 2 circuits iirc, (now I have properly installed electric supply, well over the top but less burning out sockets)
 
All-in-ones have a bottom drain to get every drop of wort out, have you considered making one of those? Angel Homebrew sell a kit which uses a skin-fitting from a boat, not as flush as a welded hole in a real all-in-one but getting close.
Angel HomeBrew also sell a very cheap version of the german Lauterhexe that BrewPi resell (comes in two sizes) which Angel HomeBrew call a Helix Coil. These are great as they fit any size pot. I use two and they work very well though you have to be careful in how you lay the coil out to make sure you get some bends in it. See photo.

Note that the BrewPi version includes a custom made weldless bulkhead which you don't get with the Angel HomeBrew version.

PS: this is my MT before I fitted a 3rd temp probe in the side to measure the mash temp directly. The temp probe connector you see on the inlet measures the Wort as it returns from the HERMs coil and there's another one hidden from view on the outlet tap on the right that measures the wort temp leaving the MT heading to the pump-->HERMs coil.

IMG_4348.JPG
 
It's stainless. Heavy. Industrial and not very workable.
These Polsinelli kettles are rather thin at 0.6mm so should be very workable in terms of tightening up a flange to seal a gasket. In comparison they're almost 1/2 the thickness of my Chinese stock pots at 1.1mm. You wouldn't want to drop one.

The other thing to note is that the base is also only 0.6mm too so they're not suitable for direct heating, gas or otherwise.
 
My 50L BB pot is my most used pot because It is induction compatible. It also has 5 tri-clamp ferules welded on. 8kg gives around 42L wort. I use a Buffalo CE208. Blown one controller in 6 years, but easy to replace. Saves a lot of fek'n about with stoopid bloody elements IMHO.

However, it still does the dreaded boil over,,,,,,,,,,, then try cleaning that wonderful hob. aheadbutt 🤣
 

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