- Mar 6, 2019
- Reaction score
Lovely. Hopped with 100g of mosaic and 100g el Dorado
What I have found is the sugar/flour settles on the base over the elements during the mash cycle, a lower wattage fixes the problem. When I say fixes, there will still be some residue over the top of the elements but not burnt just a light covering. During a vigorous boil nothing will settle over the elements.AG#41 F-Rye-Day 13th IPA
(Do you see what I did with the name there? That's gold that is, pure gold!)
Well that wasn't without it's challenges! 5 mins before the end of the boil the Klarstein decided to throw an error code (E4 = boil dry?) and cut out! I had just thrown in the last of the hops so effectively they had a 5 min long hot hopsteep, rather than a boil. But I'm fairly comfortable that it won't be too dramatic or have a disastrous impact on the bitterness.
More of a concern was that on draining the boiler I discovered a scorch mark over one of the heating elements (that was fun to clean - not!). Hopefully the finished beer will still be OK. I found an old post that suggested this could be directly related to rye malt, which I've never used before - apparently the trick is to stir the wort as you bring it up to the boil:
Anyway, as the name implies (it does, right?), this is a Rye IPA, tweaked slightly from a Josh Weikert recipe to yield something around 4.5% ABV:
Boiler problems aside, it's my standard full-volume no-sparge mash followed by a 30min boil.
15L tap water, half a Campden tablet, 2g Gypsum, 15ml CRS.
800g Lager malt
600g Pale Rye malt
625g Vienna malt (I added an extra 25g I had spare)
100g Dark Crystal malt
100g Light Crystal malt
50g Victory malt
Mash 60mins @ 65degC.
Boil 30 mins:
5g Simcoe 13.1% 30mins (11.5 IBU's)
15g Amarillo 8.5% 10mins (10.5 IBU's)
15g Northern Brewer 6.1% 10mins (7.5 IBU's)
1g Irish Moss powder 10mins
15g Amarillo 8.5% 5mins (6 IBU's)
15g Northern Brewer 6.1% 5mins (4 IBU's)
(15g Amarillo to follow as a dry hop)
Chilled to 18degC in 5mins and left for 3 hours while the crud settled out. Collected 8L crystal clear wort in the FV, plus 5L crud.
Normally I let the crud settle out over a day or two and then top up the FV. But tonight I tried something different - I passed the remaining crud through a large sanitised fine-mesh hop bag suspended over the kettle, and just gave it time to drip through. In the end I collected about another 4L crystal clear wort which I used to top up the FV, bringing the level to just over 11L of very nice looking burnt gold wort. I'm pleased with this process tweak - I'm getting a bit more wort in less time with less hassle and can top up the FV before it gets going so less oxidation risk.
Despite all the fun and games I hit my predicted OG of 1.043. I pitched a full pack of Crossmyloof "Five". I believe this is essentially US-05 so should be nice and clean and attenuate well - down to about 1.007, according to Brewer's Friend, which should end up around 4.7% ABV which will suit me perfectly.
Thanks foxy. Did you mean generally or specifically rye malt?What I have found is the sugar/flour settles on the base over the elements during the mash cycle, a lower wattage fixes the problem. When I say fixes, there will still be some residue over the top of the elements but not burnt just a light covering. During a vigorous boil nothing will settle over the elements.
Thanks - I enjoy writing itI really enjoy reading your brew log. I always seem to get scorching when using rye. I try to stir but probably not enough. I don't know if it's because I order crush grain. I was told adding the dust could be the reason not sure if I am honest. Saying that rye is great addition to a beer
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It adds great mouth feel to a beer.
That's my rye IPA with 1kg of rye
That's similar to what I experience. It can be very difficult to get of. I also use biab so no need for rise hulls
This is the method I use too. I didn't have a mesh filter to put inside my peco so gave an old wine straining bag a good boil and starsan treatment. So long as you let the crud settle first it works well and draining never gets stuck. I imagine it's more hassle to clear a clogged bazooka....
But tonight I tried something different - I passed the remaining crud through a large sanitised fine-mesh hop bag suspended over the kettle, and just gave it time to drip through.
ThanksChill haze? Must find out what that is one day. But seriously your lager's looking like a fine pint already. I'm sure it'll be great given a little more time.