Discussion in 'Beer Brewdays!' started by crowcrow, Jul 12, 2019.
Graham Wheeler must be wrong then
I have the greatest of respect for Graham Wheeler who was one of the pioneers in UK homebrewing and sadly is no longer with us but many of his books where written not in the past few years and things change. I will say again that cleanliness and sanitisation are the things that keep spoilage away. I know which I deem as the safest method for me and putting freshly boiled wort into a sanitised container and excluding all the air is in my opinion better than cooling the wort down while exposed to the air. The boiled wort is used by some to even sanitise the container they use although I advocate sanitisation as well by using proprietary cleaning/sanitising products also there has been a improvement in these products since Graham wrote most of his books. Spoilage is due to infection with poor brewing process and not the heat of the wort whether it is cooled immediately or left to cool in a sanitised container with no air to further contaminate it
Thanks for that Baron but since I've chilled I've not had spoiled beer. I also try to brew on a rainy day so reducing the risk of airborne yeast etc. I live in Cheshire so quite a lot of rain lol.
PS not on a water meter also.
Sorry to hijack this thread with a slightly off topic question but I'm considering doing no chill however I wasn't sure if I'd either need to reduce the amount of bittering hops or move the 60 minute addition to say a 40 minute addition. Will the longer amount of the time the wort stays hot for result in a higher amount of bitterness being extracted from the hops?
The water meter was one of the reasons that I started No Chill and also to save time on brew day I also mash and boil for no more than 45 mins to save time as well. Do what you feel comfortable with as everybody finds a process that works for them good luck with the brewing
Hi Jake I remove my hops before putting the wort in the no chill/FV this will keep your IBU's as per your recipe however brewing recipe builders like brewers friend etc do have a calculation to allow for leaving the hops in but I do not know how accurate they are and you are correct in that if you did do it that way less hops are needed as the IBU'S will rise as extraction of alpha acids happens until the temp of the wort drops below 80c approx.some forumites do it that way and a experienced hand would be better to advise on how to adapt the hop amounts
I doubt the bittering hops should take a hit, the late additions will make a difference in no chill, you can try and work it out or try the argon method. When I have no chilled I go for the argon method.
Yes agree the bittering hop early additions will be nearly spent but late additions will still have more to give so use the calc advised or remove at flameout depending on your recipe
At what temperature do you transfer to the FV / is there a maximum temp that a standard FV bucket cannot hold the wort? Obviously I'm not going to risk pouring boiling wort into an FV due to the risk of scolding myself but is there any reason why I wouldn't be able to pour it in at say 80 degrees C?
Just bog standard HDPE is about 64 C, although people put 80 C into HDPE cubes. There is a chart on line with the info in about all the different plastic temperature parameters.
I remove my hops then let the wort cool to 80c before transfer to my FV and then seal and leave to cool either outside or my garage whichever is coolest
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