Overview of proposed new brewery

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Looks like it is coming together. :D
Like those 16amp plugs and sockets, they are going on my system, so that it can be removed easily to make room for honey processing. ;)
S
 
yes Springer - I can almost smell the hops from the first brew :party:

May be a while yet. Plate chiller and conical FV turned up to day - the FV is huge!
 
Frisp said:
the FV is huge!

Which one did you get? got any pics ?

here you go Frisp! 120L, to give you and idea of scale its sitting in a 100L pot.

The step on the inside is not pronounced and angles steeply downwards
It was off of fleabay - this is the same http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0680806667

P1020218.jpg

P1020219.jpg

P1020220.jpg

P1020221.jpg
 
Ian's (the conical seller's) a really nice guy, bends over backwards to help with all queries, and makes stands to your requirements :cool: I imagine a fair bit of business is going his way right now...I told him that might happen...a few years ago....now where's my commission :lol:
 
Looks like you chose a similar temporary stand to me NB. :) (Except I used my trusty old plastic boiler. :D

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So, where are you going to put the tap on the cone, Vossy will know, I was thinking to allow 2 litres below it :?

I have rolled up a seat ring from 30 x 3 strip, maybe I should have gone to 5mm, but could only get 6mm at the time. If its to weak it will get 4 pieces of 25mm angle 50mm or so down. Legs are 25mm box with, braces of 12 mm dia stuff, at the bottom, with 4 off 75mm dia wheels.

Had in mind to drill a filling / air lock hole on the top edge and not the lid, saves a bit of height :?

Won't be moved when full, but for cleaning I thought to save dragging it around wheels would be best.

What do you have in mind?
S
 
So, where are you going to put the tap on the cone, Vossy will know, I was thinking to allow 2 litres below it
I'd only be doing 60-80ltr batches in mine. I had marked on my 60ltr standard fv where the biggest yeast cake settled to. I filled it to this level then poured it into the conical. I think i then added some extra, possibly to around 1.5ltr mark but I can't remember, sorry.
Does your conical have a side port S :hmm:

EDIT, just had a look at Ians listing...no side port.
 
Somewhere in that region then. :D
I suppose the last bit left in can be had from the bottom tap if all the yeast has gone. :? Maybe these bottles might want marking with a blob, i.e. don't give em to a guest. ;)
S
 
I'm thinking of dropping the yeast just before racking (to keep it or just to get rid) to maximise the take from the conical :hmm: You could always use a racking arm like the one Tony made.
 
Aleman said:
Northern Brewer said:
Could go the whole hog and but the 6L Thermos for the HX!!
I did!!
Aleman, do you have some more info, or even better some pictures :)
I have the 6L thermos, still thinking about where to stick the backer element, almost certainly through the bottom, but like to get more info before drilling there :shock: :D

Cheers
NB
 
i may look at a Tesco element and hard wire it then it wont protrude beyond the base - not sure yet - insufficient time to check these things out until this evening when the kids are abed.
 
I messed around with a kettle element once, then binned it and went for one of those nice 3kw, twenty quid or so Backer ones with two legs, only two 13mm approx, holes to drill, nice sealing washers. ;) :D You do have to shroud the live spade connections somehow.
S
 
Kids in bed eventually and GF out with mates meant I could get some quality tinkering time :geek:

I put the Backer and the Tesco kettle element side by side and for use in the 6L Thermos pot the Tesco may be better. The seals look OK to me and the 3 screws that hold/seal the element I think will be adequate, there's plenty using them so can't be that bad.

The main benefit is that if you cut the pins down a little on the tesco kettle element then I will be able to terminate the lead and take it out sideways through the insulation in the bottom of the pot and leave enough room underneath to be clear of any spillages. I may be able to put a cover on it with a silicon seal too. It may be possible to do this with the backer but seems a shame to butcher a backer element and the alternative is the backer lead protrudes a couple of inches from the bottom of the pot and I have to rig up a stand or drill a hole in the table etc.

They both need a 40mm hole in the bottom of the pot so I'll have an experiment, worst case scenarion is I have a spare Tesco element.

The other thing I will do is reduce the water volume in the pot by screwing a stainless cup/jug to the underside of the lid so when it is placed on the pot it displaces some of the water and water still covers the coil but there's less volume. Haven't thought this one through completely yet but should lower heating latency.

Cheers
NB
 
Springer said:
I messed around with a kettle element once, then binned it and went for one of those nice 3kw, twenty quid or so Backer ones with two legs, only two 13mm approx, holes to drill, nice sealing washers. ;) :D You do have to shroud the live spade connections somehow.
S

Springer, just read your post again, I was assuming you meant the usual Backer with a 40mm hole however this sounds interesting. I don't find the Backer or their "The Heating Elements company" web site easy to find products, search is useless, do you have an item number or make/use?

EDIT could it be this one?
Cheers
NB
 
Thats the one I got, even bought a spare, you never know When it might come in. ;)
They are so simple to mount and very secure.
The web site is not easy to say the least, think you need to enter "purchases" to get to the Heating Element Co. :?
S
 
There are right angled IEC connector plugs made , for minimal access use , can't remember where mine were from that were used in amplifier and effects rscks.....so it must have been RS ;)
 
Thanks guys! :thumb:

I'm still toying with the idea of hard wiring underneath the HX directly and extend the lead through a strain relief grommet to the commando plug.

Cheers
NB
 

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