PB leaking , not cap or tap!

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Garmostripel

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Hi, help needed.
Been away for a week and got back to find one of my PB’s leaking from the molding . Just above the tap.
there is still pressure in the barrel and beer tastes ok,( woodfordes Wherry). After I’d drawn some of to taste the leak got worse so I’ve tilted the barrel on its side to stop the leak.
what can I do now ? I’ve got a spare barrel I could transfer it too but is there anyway to repair it.
Any help appreciated
Gaz
5CC3AAE0-76BB-4565-9D32-985B624712F6.jpeg
5CC3AAE0-76BB-4565-9D32-985B624712F6.jpeg
 
Plastic PBs can't be repaired for use again under pressure. Sorry for the short and negative answer but you need to know the truth. As a temporary fix while you drink this beer you might be able to touch the spot where the hole is with a soldering iron to melt it closed but there's every possibility that could make it worse instead.
 
Plastic PBs can't be repaired for use again under pressure. Sorry for the short and negative answer but you need to know the truth. As a temporary fix while you drink this beer you might be able to touch the spot where the hole is with a soldering iron to melt it closed but there's every possibility that could make it worse instead.
That’s what I was expecting really.
I had resigned to losing the barrel,
Unfortunately I think there is about 30 pints still in it, and now I’ve moved it I need it to settle again before I can have some or transfer it!
thanks for reply though
 
Sorry about the leak - on the bright side at least you found it when it was small rather than it cracking right across when you were pressurising it.
It seems to me unfortunate that manufacturers insist on moulding their plastic barrels to imitate wooden ones. I can see why they do it, but it's really bad design: wherever there's an angle it creates a stress concentration point and that's where the material is going to fail.
If you are replacing it with another plastic one, then it might be worth looking at the smooth-sided type (e.g. king-keg) or something with only shallow mouldings...
 
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I agree Engineer,Its pathetic of manufacturers to try to imitate wooden barrels,Thereby producing a product with less structural integrity than it should of otherwise have.
Whatever happened to competent engineers being given the job of designing a product.????

Surely anyone who genuinely mistakes a white poly-prop barrel for wood needs their eyes tested.!!!
 
I found that duct tape gave a temporary fix in a similar situation. Hot glue doesn't work.
 
I’ve used this in the past for small leaks.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fernox-ls-x-leak-sealer-50ml/23614
Depressurise your barrel, lay it on it’s side so the leak is at the top. Dry the surrounding surfaces and apply a good “gob” of sealant to the leaky bit and surrounding area. Give it 24 hours to dry and repressurise to check if it worked. Cut the top off the barrel and use as a plant pot when empty.
 
I found that duct tape gave a temporary fix in a similar situation. Hot glue doesn't work.
the barrel was still holding pressure and beer tasted fine I didn’t want to open it to bottle some as I only had ten bottles.
I’ve gone down duct tape option and will see how that goes. I’ll get rid of barrel when empty. 👍
 
To try and fix it would need a patch from the inside. Drilling a small hole each end of the crack and then filling with epoxy. I would try it but just as a challenge to see if I could fix it.
 
To try and fix it would need a patch from the inside. Drilling a small hole each end of the crack and then filling with epoxy. I would try it but just as a challenge to see if I could fix it.
I wouldn't fill it with any glue that wasn't food safe. That Fernox LS-X that @Buffers brewery linked to is safe for use in potable water systems.
 
The idea of drilling small holes to stop a crack from "running" is a good one.

I did this to a guitar neck that had developed a running crack,The holes stopped it dead in its tracks.
 

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