Pressure fermentation - should I put the fermenter into the fridge to condition?

[Omega]

Hi, all,
I am thinking to buy a pressure fermenter to make my brewing better. Once I finish fermentation and remove sediments from the bottom (thinking about MiniUni or Apollo 60L Unitank fermenters, they allow removing the sediments) should I, similar to Pinter, place the fermenter into the fridge to condition? Luckily, I have lots of space in my fridge
I will be brewing IPAs and lagers, rarely stouts
Thank you

 

[Rwilts]

Not to answer your question, but I bought a fermizilla last year thinking I would be removing trub.or dry hopping so got the one with the removable jar. I have not used it once and now regret that decision. I pressure ferment a lot and don't feel comfortable removing trial jar when the fermenter is under pressure, all it's really given me is a more complicated clean process.

so my advice. Be sure your going to need the function before shelling out.

 

[Omega]

Thank you for letting me know. Could you tell me what model is it? Is it like this one? Fermzilla 27L Gen3.2 TRI-CONICAL Starter Kit AND Ultimate Pressure Kit

 

[Rwilts]

Think that's a slightly updated version, my jar is shorter and has the ports on opposite sides to each other, but in principle yes

 

[RoomWithABrew]

I've been using fermentasaurus with collection jar for several years and many brews.
Dropping trub and yeast out I do all the time, pressure ferment or spunding of course.
Closed inject finings and drop the residue of this and transfer the clear pressurised beer to kegs or bottles.
Bear in mind a 60 litre fermenter will be heavy.
In answer to should I condition in the fridge I cold crash under pressure and do the yeast trub drops in the fridge most of the time and the transfers.
When you've emptied collection bottle and washed sanitised it, refill via a picnic tap with fermenting or fermented beer to the brim and reattach the collecting jar. This way you don't dose your carefully protected beer with air.

 

[Mash Monster]

Think that's a slightly updated version, my jar is shorter and has the ports on opposite sides to each other, but in principle yes

Like you I found the original version of the Fermzilla a real PITA to use as it was very difficult to use the collection vessel in particular taking off the screw top lid. However since upgrading to the Gen 3.2 collection pot with the ports on the one side it’s a game changer. Note you need to change the valve as well as the pot but IMHO it’s well worth the expense .

 

[Rwilts]

Like you I found the original version of the Fermzilla a real PITA to use as it was very difficult to use the collection vessel in particular taking off the screw top lid. However since upgrading to the Gen 3.2 collection pot with the ports on the one side it’s a game changer. Note you need to change the valve as well as the pot but IMHO it’s well worth the expense .

Is that an option (clearly it is)?

Bit if googling , looks like I have gen 2 and it's not compatible with this upgrade

 

[Justin Dean]

The fermzilla with the tri clamps is easy

 

[hoppyscotty]

You cant beat the fermzilla style fermenters. They're really good. I have the older style still but the new style with the triclamp flanges looks like a game changer. Personally when/if I get one I'd ditch the collection jar and just get some standard off the shelf triclamp fittings and fit a 90 degree elbow and butterfly valve for dumping trub and try hops.

The problems with the jar are, for dumping trub unless the amount of trub you generate is in precise multiples of the jar capacity then you will be wasting good beer. And for dry hopping the view that you dry hop from the jar is nice....but doesn't work especially with the new style jars with the offset lids.

 

[Mash Monster]

You cant beat the fermzilla style fermenters. They're really good. I have the older style still but the new style with the triclamp flanges looks like a game changer. Personally when/if I get one I'd ditch the collection jar and just get some standard off the shelf triclamp fittings and fit a 90 degree elbow and butterfly valve for dumping trub and try hops.

The problems with the jar are, for dumping trub unless the amount of trub you generate is in precise multiples of the jar capacity then you will be wasting good beer. And for dry hopping the view that you dry hop from the jar is nice....but doesn't work especially with the new style jars with the offset lids.

The new jars are 3 inch Tri clamp fittings and they are not off set making them much easier to remove without that dreaded screw threaded top. They are also much smaller capacity 600ml rather than the original 1000ml this off sets amount of beer wasted but I take your point that if the trub/yeast is less than 600ml there will be wastage. As to dry hopping I prefer to use the hop bong I know it’s more kit but I even use it on my All Rounders.