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Vossy1

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A quick note about pumps. Most of the pumps reviewed below have magnetically coupled impellers. This allows the outlet of the pump to be restricted i.e., you can slow the flow rate of the pump by putting a valve on the outlet, causing no harm to the pump. The inlet should not be restricted.
The RG550 listed below, is the only pump reviewed where the impeller isn't magnetically coupled, it's directly driven by the motor. This means the pump can't be restricted via the outlet to reduce the flow rate. If it is restricted you may damage the motor of the pump, and/or it may overheat. You can however make a by pass loop for this pump to control the flow rate.

These are just the pumps I have had the opportunity to test, there are many more available.

March May 809

I bought this pump from Morebeer in the US and I've been using it over the past X 2 years. This is a purpose designed pump for boiling liquids, there aren't many out there readily available to the home brewer. It primes 1st time and is very quite compared to the March May MMP-3 and the RG 550 (see below). The pump can be run with a ball valve on the outlet to restrict the flow, and even with the valve fully shut, the pump is no noisier than in normal operation. It takes standard 1/2" BSP female fittings (though the pumps male threads are NPT). The casing doesn't get hot in use, even when pumping 100 deg c liquids. The rear of the pump is exposed so care must be taken to avoid the ingress of liquid. This has been an excellent pump and my only criticism is that its flow rate is slowed considerably when impeded, i.e., by a hops screen and CFC. Having said that, mag drive pumps shouldn't have their inlet restricted.

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For pump test see below.

Totton NPD 10/2

I used this pump regularly for 10 months, and all in all, it's performed very well. It's very quiet in use, but it doesn't like restrictions to flow or high temps. When the temp nears 80 deg c the pump is o.k. for the first minute or so, then slowly the flow rate falls to nothing. The inlet and outlet ports are not threaded and they are about 12mm in diameter. I found them best used with a 1/2" tube, pushed over and jubilee clipped to, the port. For cold pumping, and up to 80 deg c, this pump is well made, cheap and does the job well. If you intend to pump nearer the extremes, i.e., 80 deg c+, do not get this pump. By undoing the screws on the front (top left picture below) you can gain access to the impeller for cleaning or general maintenance. Technical details can be found here.

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For pump test see below.

March May MMP-3

I used this pump regularly for 10 months and found it to be totally reliable. Due to the nature of the multi stage impeller housing, cavitation can be a problem when priming. I used this pump with a ball valve restricting the outlet to 2-3ltr/min and the pump coped very well, though noise does increase with increased restriction. It's quite happy pumping liquids to 90 deg c in my experience, though it's not rated to these temperatures. Dismantling the impeller head for cleaning can be interesting with all the segments. My MMP 3 came with built in push fit 15mm connectors, which for ease of use, is hard to beat. By undoing the screws on the front (top left picture below) you can gain access to the various segments of the impeller head, for cleaning or general maintenance. All in all a very reliable pump which is quite forgiving and tolerant. Technical details can be found here.

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For pump test see below.

Stuart Turner RG550

I haven't used this pump, apart from testing, perhaps one of our forum members who has, might be able to review its operational qualities for us. What I do know of this pump. It's very powerful, very heavy, well made and about the same size as the MMP-3. This pump had a high pitched whine on operation, though it's quite quiet for such a large pump. It's really easy to prime due to the priming valve on the front, and it has a thermo trip which has been known to work when pumping hot liquids, turning the pump off until the trip rests. The inlet and outlet ports are 3/4" BSP male thread. By undoing the screws on the front (top left picture below) you can gain access to the impeller for cleaning or general maintenance.
Technical details can be found here and here.

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PUMP TESTING

All pumps were tested using the same set up, which incorporated a cfc. The pump was placed in line after the water source, but before the cfc, so the pump was pumping water through the cfc. The pumps were run at full power unrestricted in any way, see picture below.

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Picture shows a water reservoir (large fv), pump in line, cfc and collecting reservoir (small fv).

The results

March May MMP-3...........7 ltr/min
Morebeer (March May).....3 ltr/min
Stuart Turner RG550.....9.5 ltr/min
Totton NPD 10/2..........1.5 ltr/min

If you have any other sort of pump please post your reviews here :thumb:
 
Somebody's seen my post in the other place ;)

Because I want the brewery all on one level (except for filling the fermenter) I'm after a pump for sparging. Now I prefer fly sparging which causes a problem with the low flow rate.

What I'm planning on is using an underback on the output of the mash tun and either pump out of that at a slow rate if the pump can handle it, or pump the wort out at intervals (and being lazy, i'd use level indicators and do it automagically:-) )

Pity the flojet ones can't handle that temperature as I've got other uses for compressed gas.
 
Somebody's seen my post in the other place

Yes I did :thumb: I've had 5 things/how to's, including this one, to do for the last 3 months, just haven't had the time.
More are coming though ;)
For total flexibility I'd recommend the March May 809, it's simply the best pump for the job. I messed around with the other pumps before buying the MM 809, if I'd have bought it first I wouldn't have looked back. It only has one fault, flow rate slowing when the inlet is restricted, but as I said above, you shouldn't be doing that anyway.
My 809 is restricted to 2.75ltr/min on my HERMS.
 
Vossy1 said:
Somebody's seen my post in the other place

Yes I did :thumb: I've had 5 things/how to's, including this one, to do for the last 3 months, just haven't had the time.
More are coming though ;)
For total flexibility I'd recommend the March May 809, it's simply the best pump for the job. I messed around with the other pumps before buying the MM 809, if I'd have bought it first I wouldn't have looked back. It only has one fault, flow rate slowing when the inlet is restricted, but as I said above, you shouldn't be doing that anyway.
My 809 is restruicted to 2ltr/min on my HERMS.

The MM pumps are made in America aren't they and imported by the uk subsidary. Damn. Bloody exchange rate.
 
Vossy1 said:
The MM pumps are made in America aren't they and imported by the uk subsidary. Damn. Bloody exchange rate.

March May in the U.K will supply the 809. There's a link on Jims somewhere, I think it was about £85 ;)

In October Aleman said it had gone up to about £93 - I suspect it's risen again.
 
are all mag drive pumps picky about air bubbles in the line?

i've got a scottsman (i think that's a rebranded totton?) pump.

my thermobox mash tun lets tiny little bubbles get into the line and i can't find where despite covering every joint around the ball valve with tape, blutac you name it!.

if the bubbles get too much the pump gives up or starts making funny noises :(
 
are all mag drive pumps picky about air bubbles in the line?

From my experience it depends on their design. The MMP-3 has a multi segmented impeller head and bubbles can be a real PITA with it. The MM 809 will deal with air in the line really well, whereas the Totton wasn't so good. The RG 550 just drew everything through it...it would have taken your house if you weren't careful :lol: ...it was a lovely pump though.

I believe Rab managed to make a by pass loop to reduce the flow rate on the RG 550, returning part of the outputted liquid back to the inlet, seemed to work for him.
 
Is there a reason why peristaltic pumps are so uncommon for homebrew purposes? cost? There were, once upon a time, very much confined to labs but they seem very suited for homebrew purposes.

The only thing that the brew comes into contact with is the hose carrying it from one vessel to another.... cleaning is a sinch and heat effects negligible, and contamination more or less impossible.
The pumps handle bubbles and suspended solids that can move through a line (such as bits of hops) without stressing the motor, they can even run dry.
 
I think the Totton pump that BS has is the GP 20/12 that often gets rebranded as Scotsman.

I have used these pumps for several years now and don't have a problem with cavitation or priming. I do backflush from the HLT to prime though but that has more to do with priming the heat exchanger than the pump.

I fancy one of those Stuart Turner jobs as I'm thinking about a CIP solution.

Practically, I see no reason why peristaltic pumps shouldn't be used in homebrewing. How expensive would it be for one that can handle 12.7" ID silicone tubing?

/Phil.
 
percival said:
Is there a reason why peristaltic pumps are so uncommon for homebrew purposes? cost? There were, once upon a time, very much confined to labs but they seem very suited for homebrew purposes.

The only thing that the brew comes into contact with is the hose carrying it from one vessel to another.... cleaning is a sinch and heat effects negligible, and contamination more or less impossible.
The pumps handle bubbles and suspended solids that can move through a line (such as bits of hops) without stressing the motor, they can even run dry.

Peripumps would be perfect but they're very bloody expensive - cheapest I could find was about 550 quid. You'd also need a very big one for a large transfer rate. They're more suited to very low flow applications.

EDIT: Just found one on craftbrewer for £120
 
I use 2 Totton NPD 10/2 pumps & one RG550 stuart pump both work very good.I have been using my totten pumps up to 80oc+ for 15 years now without problems except one started getting noisey about 5 years ago.The stuart pumps are cheap to buy & great at handling boiling wort but more suited to people brewing over 100 litre batches.I once forgot to open a valve & the suction from the RG550 partially colapsed a 22 mil copper pipe.I first tried slowing it with a voltage regulator but the pump would heat up & start cutting out.I managed to tame the beast by simply connecting a hose from the pumps bleed valve & returning it back to the boiler thus slowing the flow through my CFC.When my RG550 packs in i will buy another one but wouldn't buy anymore Totton NPD as they are expensive unless you get lucky on ebay.I will go for flojet pumps for sparging ect in the future as they are very cheap & i have a mini compressor anyway.
 
Phil said:
I think the Totton pump that BS has is the GP 20/12 that often gets rebranded as Scotsman.

I have used these pumps for several years now and don't have a problem with cavitation or priming. I do backflush from the HLT to prime though but that has more to do with priming the heat exchanger than the pump.

I fancy one of those Stuart Turner jobs as I'm thinking about a CIP solution.

Practically, I see no reason why peristaltic pumps shouldn't be used in homebrewing. How expensive would it be for one that can handle 12.7" ID silicone tubing?

/Phil.
The stuart pump would be great for a CIP been thinking about doing one for my fermenter but can't find any spray-balls at a decent price might just try a piece of copper pipe with end cap & small holes drilled. :party:
 
Someone on Jim's has said that they're using Flojet pumps for the same purpose as me with no problems and I just happened to find a brand new one on Fleabay for a fiver, so I'll give it a test.
 
jamesb said:
Someone on Jim's has said that they're using Flojet pumps for the same purpose as me with no problems and I just happened to find a brand new one on Fleabay for a fiver, so I'll give it a test.

That was me....Luv em..Good luck :party:
 
For small scale work the RG550 is excellent as a CIP pump . . . we use one on our cask washer and we do 30 casks at a time
 
My flojet pump has arrived. I'll pop up to get some fittings at lunchtime and I'll try and give it a test this afternoon (can I make it look like work?).
 
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