Recommend a PH meter

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I keep multiples of everything, learned from mistakes broken hydrometer now have two spare in stock, biggest nightmare are the SVB's they aren't built to last as with the cockroach incident if I hadn't had back up I would have been rooted. Two stir plates, extra yeast.
Anything which could go wrong I am prepared for.
 
I keep multiples of everything, learned from mistakes broken hydrometer now have two spare in stock, biggest nightmare are the SVB's they aren't built to last as with the cockroach incident if I hadn't had back up I would have been rooted. Two stir plates, extra yeast.
Anything which could go wrong I am prepared for.
Me too.
Sorry, I took the second comment I quoted to mean exactly the opposite. Hence my confusion.

In fact I really should start passing on some of the older stuff that I haven't used for years.
 
The Ph of the water is unimportant its the ph of the mash that is critical for many reasons. From 'Water' part of the Brewing Series - Cheers
pH of water that will be used to fly sparge is important. A meter is helpful when acidifying it to 5.5.
 
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Having both options by buying pack of test strips, a cheap meter and calibration/storage solution is probably the best option. Use the strips for a quick and easier check that the mash is in the correct range, and save on probe damage. Use the meter for the odd occasions where a more accurate measurement is needed.

A problem with meters for mash measurements can be taking too long to cool and measure the sample. Then making adjustments after the point where they will be effectual.
 
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A problem with meters for mash measurements can be taking too long to cool and measure the sample. Then making adjustments after the point where they will be effectual.
I've never believed in the measure and adjust approach for that very reason....by the time you know if your mash pH is off, there is little that can be done about it.

Predict, measure, record and then adjust for the next brew is all that is reasonably practical. Yes you might brew a different beer with a different grain bill next time out, but by the time you've got several brews under your belt of differing styles you'll have collected enough data to give you a very good idea of what you need for future brews.
 
I started with strips then tried the cheap Chinese ones but the best is
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Apera-Inst...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&th=1
A little pricey but really accurate and you don't need to worry about the temperature of the wort.
Just wanted to ask if this one is good. However, I also found £10 more expensive pH meter if add calibration items and it claims to be 0.01pH accuracy instead of 0.1pH. Guess I won't be going for +-0.03 pH difference... A lot of positive reviews, but don't know if they were "bought'
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Apera-Inst...48d-b2a0-609d798a86a6&pd_rd_i=B01ENFOIQE&th=1
 
Looks like a good one - price is okay with calibration solutions and the probe is replaceable for 40 quid. lt looks similar to the PH-200 I use.
 
Got a decent deal on an "as new" Apera PH20, hopefully arrives in good nick.

Advice in this thread is really useful and I don't intend to become obsessive about it. More about checking the software is accurate and having faith in that going forward, and in certain styles where PH at different points seems more critical (thinking about this article on Italian Pilsner, which I would like to crack).
 
I've got an e-bay special from a few years ago. Never actually used it :D . I just forget about it on the day. I did remember I had it a few weeks ago but its battery was flat. Replaced the battery, calibrated it and then never remembered it since. I suppose its just not part of my routine 🤷‍♂️. I have considered the beer specific litmus paper (with a limited range dedicated to mash pH) but never put it in the shopping cart.
 
kknoon ph meter i went for this seems to be reading what i expect it to. I believe it is the same as the kegland model.
Actually that one takes 2 x AAA and the Kegland takes 4x LR44 and offers 3 point calibration vs the usual 2 points in the Chinese clone meters like that one.
 
Having both options by buying pack of test strips, a cheap meter and calibration/storage solution is probably the best option. Use the strips for a quick and easier check that the mash is in the correct range, and save on probe damage. Use the meter for the odd occasions where a more accurate measurement is needed.

A problem with meters for mash measurements can be taking too long to cool and measure the sample. Then making adjustments after the point where they will be effectual.
Yep, this is a challenge. I have 'invested' in a lab quality PH meter and it has temp correction upto 80 degs C, though this only corrects for temperature to give an accurate PH reading at higher temps and not correction of PH to 20 degs C...PH increases with temp. Though looking on calculators the difference in PH between 20 degrees and typical mash temps is only a few points of a PH so if your reading is in the high side of the usual mash PH range then you can be safe in assuming you're really in the middle of the sweet spot by the time you've converted. The ability to take measurements from hot wort is great and means you can really tightly control the PH.
 
Well the probes are consumable items but are relatively cheap to replace so as an occasional maintenance charge they're not breaking the bank. One of the benefits in 'investing' in a more expensive meters are the probes last longer and are more robust if you maintain them well, but they are consumable items. These things are lasting 12 - 18 months in laboratory settings being used every day, so being used once a month by a home brewer means they should last alot longer than that.
 
I have the Apera PH20 which is mentioned above and I love it, apart from the fact it only reads to 1 decimal place as I mentioned earlier in the thread. For me, a PH meter is better as strips are open to misinterpretation. Still haven't found a meter that reads to 2 decimal places though at a decent price.
 

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